boneyardbanshee.

PRM makes the one I posted. I do like MarineNYC rak also. I own the one I have. Got it used. It has come in handy on the long rides. I throw a 2.5 gallon in the middle, a small blitz on one side and tools, extra tear-offs, and whatever else in a pack on the other side. That way I dont have to wear a backpack or can just throw on a small camleback.

If you are lacking bottom end you can always increase timming and change your gearing. YOu dont have to rely on the pipe alone. Reeds can affect this also.

really like this rack. It will hold two small blitz cans on the side and a cooler in the middle. Or a bigger can. Has staps to keep everything secure. Another nice thing is it is up and out of the way of your stingers so you are not blowing exhaust on your stuff and has a drop down grab bar for good leverage. It is built very solid aswell.

Yeah it may seem expensive but as I said that isnt the easiest job to do. Transparents take some time to get used to. Powder coated frames are much harder to strip. Multiple coats require more time in the oven. It all adds up. For single coats I know of guys who get anywhere between 200 to 400 for a frame. It kinda depends on the market in their area. Like most coaters,I will do anything that fits in my oven. For a panited frame to strip and single coat I go around 250. I dont do a ton of business through ATVs so I try to keep it reasonable. I have been busy doing lamps right now. We will see how long that lasts. PM sent

Well for a powdered frame with a base and a transparent would run about 350. You wouldnt need a clear because transparent colors and candies are tinted clears. A clear on top of that would help protect it and add some depth. That would run about 425. I can PM you a breakdown if you wish.

Was the base color added directly before the transparent? Transparents are tricky at times. Your gun will affect performane with them. Cheap guns do not have a smooth powder flow and lack voltage adjustability. Transparents need to be laid in a very even coat or splotches will occur. That can happen with the uneven powder flow. Next, second coats need to have a higher voltage to attract the powder. Faraday areas can be a real problem on frames. You actually need to lower the voltage for the powder to go into those areas. Hot flocking will help with this. It appears as if he had trouble with the powder sticking, eveness of the powder, and trouble getting into the faraday areas. If he doesnt have a professional gun I would find someone else. What you want done has a high degree of difficulty for the powder coater. Oh, I do this for a living so yes I do know what I am talking about. How I would have done it (base coat done): Remove frame from oven let cool to around 200 degrees with a low voltage, spray all faraday areas first while frame is still "warm" then turn voltage up and lay and even coat on the reat of the frame. Use a led headlamp to check for thin spots and apply accordingly. Set back in oven. Let heat up untill the powder starts to flow then imediatlly pull and recheck for thin spots. You have to do this as soon as the powder starts to look liquid or it is too late to apply more powder. Once saticfied place back in oven and let the frame heat to 400 degrees. Once it reaches temp leave it in for 10 minuets and pull. Let stand over night and your ready to go. As I said before , this is a professional job that needs to be done by a profesional with profesional equipment. Judging by the pic on his dinning room table he is not. Please dont think I am trying to say he is a hack or I am the absolute god of PC. Just my two cents. I hope you get this worked out, I think it will look sick when done.

yep typo sorry. I guess that isnt that bad of a price, they want over 200 bucks on ebay for it. I like the fact you can get a filter lid for it aswell.

when adjusting you should be in neutral for correct adjustment.

You can run pods with that box. You wont have to worry about melting a hole in it. The price is outragous.

I would have to agree. Never been a real fan of the cut look anyhow. If you ride in PA on the trails you will get covered regardless. However the fenders do keep shit from flying up and hitting you in the face, wich is way I am keeping mine for now. Just got +2 arms so we will see. If anything the half cut might be ok like sheerider's or bansheedan's.

use CLR to remove the oxidation. Then use some polish to get them shiney. WD-40 or clear silicone spray will help keep the rust off.

Hot Rod crank

your leaking somewhere. Check your petcock or your fuel lines.

so.... what was it you were trying to point out?

Make sure it is pressed in all the way. this thread should help with the adjustment. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...haft+adjustment Top photo shows how it is out of adjustment. Last photo show the lock washer and adjustment slot needed tp adjust it. The hooks should be evenly spaced to the pins on the star when in neutral.

Here There are many others but this is my favorite. Great selection, great prices, great customer service.

yeah I am about 25 min. from the lake. I have been to the Rumble and Quadfest and will definatly be going back. I dont have a registration or insurance so I have not hit any of the others up yet. I have been on Majestics site before and it lools cool. Close to me also. Another member told me about a place in New York. www.adirondackatv.org To far for me but is the only place I personally know of in New York. Its more of a club thing, but looks like fun. I wish we had stuff like that around here anymore. We used to have two large poker runs in the area and several clubs but landowners and disrespectful "tourist" shut that down.

I hear Mines and Meadows is a sweat spot. It is located near Pittsburgh. They even have guided rides through the lime stone caves. Also There is Rumble on the Ridge. They have that 3 times a year. It is in Adena, OH. Quadfest near Pittsburgh is once a year and is crazy fun. Its like a bike week for quads. Where do you live? Those are all western Pa, east OH. I asume you live in PA. Some other east coast places that I know of are: Hatfield-McCoy in W.Va (it is a huge trail system conected to ATV friendly towns) and Carolina Adventure World in SC (this place is masive). Mines And Meadows Rumble On The Ridge Quadfest Hatfield-McCoy Carolina Adventure World

Wondering if anyone knows where I can still get some of their gear. I think RMATV used to distribute it but cant find it on their website or catalog. Only pants I really ever liked. Has a real casual look to it.

This link should help you out. In the first pic you can see how his is way out of wack. You want those "hooks" to be equal distance to the studs on the star. Then in the last pic you can clearly see the lock washer and adjustment slot. He has the arm removed in the last pic, leave yours on. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...haft+adjustment

Where your shift shaft is there will be a lock washer and a srtraight screwdriver slot. You will need to remove the clutch basket to see the shift star. Bend back the lock washer, then turn it witch ever way it needs to go. Like I said before make sure your in neutral. I will try to find a pic to help you out.

Hmm, well thats different. Most lowering kits I have seen go on the lower arm and put the shock at more of an angle than stock. Because of that, it may be a rough ride. Long story short, I wouldnt trust jumping that thing, or hitting potholes for that matter.

Where the hell do you ride that thing in New York? Your the seond person I seen with paddles in New York. Just wondering, I would like to hit some sand but dont want to travel 8 hours.

yep thats what I was refering to. With it in neutral, the "hooks" should be evenly spaced to the pins on the star.

sounds like you may need to adjust it a little. If you are rolling and you shift it up all the way, it should click in. If your adjustment is off, it may not be letting you get full range out of it. Shift star is easy. It helps to go by a photo the first time though.