GrMeyer

Yeah that was the first place I checked was in the clutch side cover... and no it will not kick over

Well after getting my jugs ported I went riding and I shifted down from 6th to 5th to turn a corner and it just dies. Pulled the head and the crank turns ok. Put it up on blocks and put it in 1st with head off and try to turn the tires and NO GO!!! anyone had this Prob?

get the OD of the mouth of the carbs and there you go. So then find a filter that will fit the OD

I just use acid from pools...using a 1part acid and 2 parts water... have running water and gloves and out side. put a little of some dish soap in it and swish it around... get an old rag like a sock. start on one pipe and it should start bubbling. let it sit for around 30 and rub with sock. wash off with fresh running water. Keeps my pipes like new. Oh and dont huff the vapors from the acid. you dont have to have a mask but just keep up wind and not standing over it while you work

Let us know how the banshee wakes up with those carbs

im going to say your might be lean on the top end. I would prob start around the 300's and work down from there!!! But for jetting it in. you want to work with the mains first and then the needle then the pilot

I ran 25 pilots for a year tell i got my porting done and moved up to 27.5's but it ran great with the 25's... so all in all if the bottom end is great and launches hard with 25's then I would stay with them...but if you have them around the house try the 27.5 and see how they work. all in all its not like you can move back down to the 25's if they are tomuch for your bike...

umm the psi depends on the shock maker... and most of them around 200psi max

Riding the Dunes.... not really jumping but will come off of a lip with about a 5ft drop now and then and jump it but mostly dune riding and the whoops. its the smaller springs that I kept breaking...and Yup no love for Works when they want to screw you over like that...But for the trail riding and what not I would go with the triple elkas with no rez or adj. I put a pair on my dads bike like that I found off ebay for a great price. before dune season im going to revalve them and put remote rez's on them for him. but have not had any probs with the elkas heating up...Had a prob with the works heating up and fading out even with rezies on them.

If it was me I would try to find some FMF Fattys or some T-5 pipes.

There is more then just adding N2 to the shocks. Did they let them selfs out our did you let it out. I did you change the oil in the shocks? and all in all any welding shop can and should be able to fill them back up

im going to have to say F Works Shocks... I had some Pro Series 2-way adjustable damping piggyback shocks with Triple-Rate Spring. broke two springs and they wound not warranty work on them for not even being 6months old. Had a buddy get some and they valved them wrong. went to send them back and charged him for the work and wouldnt refund his money for the shocks not even being a month old. I went with YFZ450 shocks and love them alot better then the works. they have rebound and compression. Works only had compression. Had them rebuild for a dunes season and didnt even last three months of dune riding. Switched to the yfzs and are going on two years. Oh and if you want to rebuild the works. You have to buy the kit from them. unlike elka and other brands you can go to ace to get the seals for a rebuild... So sense then everyone I know has moved to Elka and are very happy... I have a set of dunes elkas on my 660 and have lasted for over three years with no rebuild. So all in all giving the Works Shocks a score out of (10) I would give them a (3) over stock shocks being (1)..

been running full on avgas sense last dune season and getting ready to tear down my 660 raptor motor because I broke a oil jug bolt off. Just rebuilt my banshee from a pod coming off in the sand. The motor was clean... My next door neighbor has been buying avgas for 5 years and running it in his rail and quads. Still no prob...he buys the gas that cant be sold to planes so he gets it in a 55gal drum. But I was told that you cant mix avgas with reg gas for some reason. but both of my bikes need the 100oct so I dont have to mix.. at around $4 gal of avgas vs $8 of 100oct pump gas...Ill stay with avgas

+1

What elevation are you at and what filter set up are you using?

well what kind of riding are you doing...some people will be able to help you pick some carbs that will work better for the riding your doing...but damn those are some flown jugs!!!! And who cuts those things? And what bore are you at? And are you using an aftermarket crank?

Get the OD (outside diameter) of the inlet side of the carb. stock is at 42mm

looks good to me...pull the spake plug out and have someone kick it over while you hold it to a ground point. if not spark you can start with the electrical. I stayed with the stock stator just for the reason almost everyone is having probs with them...all in all i went with a led side marker light as my tail light and put 2 (mr16)35w lights up front...1 flood and 1 spot

Are those the Yfz shocks? if they are the springs are up side down. But i dont think it will matter...I kind of like the idea to help keep rocks and what not from hitting the piston shaft if there is no guard. But all in all man the bike looks Sick

if it is heating up fast then im going to say it is lean

I believe those pics are the DMC pipes

If you want to keep your fuel system clean just add some cleaner to it... I mix some in all my fuels have always used cleaners on my cars and trucks... after three truck motors and 2 car motors i have taken down to add performance parts the top of the pistons and combustion chambers are always clean. and I have tried the old sprayn some ATF fluid in the intake while it is running to remove carbon. Seems like it works but I really never want to take down a motor and put it back together just to see if it works. I guess if your having problems with build up then I would have to say change your gas

I have go single buff and I have a buddy that uses the triple buff. they are light... but when you get that thin you have to start watching out for what your running over... rims are a big role as well

fullflights arent to bad of arms....but they do have their downsides. but for stock arms you need to watch out for lightly bent arms that you cant see. I pushed my bike into a rock that only lightly bent the arm but you couldnt see it unless you put another stock arm next to it.

Im not trying to tell him about putting a tusk clutch in a drag bike...I was just saying I have had good luck with them. And I know rear wheel dyno's are not true...But still give me an idea what my bikes are pushing out...