GrMeyer

http://stores.ebay.com/Ortires-com

I wouldnt wast my money on them. I always get arms and an axle to widen my bikes. If you really want to go the other way I would go with bolt on hub extenders. I have a buddy that runs them on the rear axle for the +4 effect tell his axle breaks or something else. But there is really no gain in that kit your looking at. all it is doing is moving all you suspension out. You are going to be losing the strong points that are made in the frame.

As for the axle i know my +4 is just a hair over my +2+1 arms. I have a +6 on my raptor from lonestar. But it all depends on what rim your wanting to run. If you want to stay stock size with the +3 arms then I really dont think you will see much a of diff if you have a +4 axle.

Well if you keep your lid off you should be starting around 280ish. Needle should be around the 3rd clip for starting off. I know mine liked the stock 25pilots and the 27.5 I moved up to after porting. But all in all you will see a big gain just in pipes and a intake.

Well you shoudnt be having fuel/oil separation unless your running meth/alcy. Also I know if the gas sits for some time it will start to separation. Thats why some people rec to shake the gas tank before a ride and shaking the gas can before filling. But you have to watch out on most of your octane boosters as well. Most of them have Tolulene, Xylene, Alcohol & other goodies that will help the separation. There is a guy on here named Firehead (sp) He has made his own gas and has many write ups on here and what he thinks about as for fuels for whats safe and what not. Just use the search button because there are many many topics on octane/ fuel additives. Best of luck.

Learn something new everyday!!!

I love my +2 arms. I do the same... I got a set of off set front rims so it adds another inch on both side. And then when I ride the trails im good when I run the stock rims. I still clear most of the trees. But when you order the arms you need to make sure and see if the arms are LT or ST shocks.

You need to buy the right gas.. If your buying octane booster then something is wrong. They are only good for about (.5) of a % of the octane rating if your lucky. I run a 50/50 mix of 100ll and 91 because I cant get 93 where I live and 100 oct is $8 a gal. Be running 100ll in three of my bike and just rebuild two and they are very clean on the inside. Some people dont like the Lead. But if you can run the bike hot enough you will not have build up of the lead. But best of luck.

Yeah they will blow because of the high vibration from the bike. If you can, you can think of a way to rubber isolate the light. And if you go from lowes is a quick fix for the lights and you will be payn out your ass. If you can get on Ebay for some other whole sale place you can get a lot of them and you can get half spot and half flood. But best of luck with the light as I have been running them for a year now on the same lights after I have put some rubber orings to help out. I also added a red corner 3 led light as my break light.

If your wanting to get a set of new pistons... Then get a port job while your at it and do a 1 over on bore for a fresh run of the new pistons. then you will have a long life of the top end and a shit load of more power.

They suck for anything other then lighting the tree. I was thinking the same thing last year for the dunes and its a No Go. I was better off tape'n flash lights to my quad and helmet. For the Mr16 you need to find spot light and not flood. or find both and run them both. I got mine off Ebay. Other wise you will end up spending about $5 a light

If the plugs are getting fouled then their not jetted right. As for pipes I cant tell you what you want. But more then just give you advise. I love my Fatty for when I did hit the track because I had the bottom end and still had topend as well. But not like t5s. But for just riding around trails I love the power band that the fattys give. I was thinking of going to t5s for the dunes but hey. I already have fattys and I already beat them up the hill at the dunes. But it will also depend on how well your jetted. As for jets. Jets are jets. They might have their own needle but I have run the stock needle for three years with no probs. All you will need is a rang from 270-320 main jets. That should be able to cover you if you still want to do some more mods later on. Back around last year. there was a topic on here that had most of the pipes on a dyno. I wish I still had the graph.

Pull the carb bowls and clean the bottom of the carb. Make sure that the floats are working. Reinstall everything and if it is still doing it then you will need to adjust your float hight. And if that doesnt work then your in for a rebuild kit. Or just float needles.

If you can find a set of Yfz450 shocks for a great price then I would get those. They are a great shock and have alot of adjustment. You have rebound, compression and preload. Most of the after market lower grade shocks only come with preload and maybe compression adj. So if you want a great shock that has some great adj out of the box then get those. You can also make them into dual rate shocks later on down the road and get them revalved for your riding. With the stock shocks on the +2+1 arms they will fast fast... They arent made for that but will work for some easy trail riding.

I had the fullflights on one of my raptors and didnt like them the hemi's get dirt in them and its over. all you will hear is the squeak. Turned around and sold them for a new set of ball joined arms. Never looked back. I have had roll design, alba, burgard, lone star and asr a-arms. Look for chromoly tubing and lifetime warranty on defects. But mostly any +2+1 arms are a massive improvement over stock. And if you add a +4 axle, your bike will feel like its on rails. Also when you go to +2+1 arms you will need to look into after market shocks. I have the yfz 450 shocks and love them... I had the pro triple rate works and they faded fast. The yfz shocks have a bigger rez on them so they cool the oil much better. And plus they have rebound adj. most the the after market lower grade shocsk only come with preload and maybe compression adj. But the stock yfz shocks have all three. You can add dual rate spings and revalve them later for your liking. But for the price of getting into them and with the adjustments they offer are great.

Carb slides switched?

I would have to say if you have the know how you can save some coin but not much but you can mod the stock timing plate. you just round out the holes to adv it to 4deg I was talking to someone that got 5deg out of it but was pushing the outer thickness of the plate. A cool head is a great mod as well. It will allow you to change out your compression. I ride alot of dunes and tail riding and love my fmf fatties. You are going to get everyones .02 on pipes. If you can find a set of used pipes like said above that need some love but no dents then your in luck if you can get a deal. Opening the lid or taking the lid off will wake the banshee up when it is jetted right. And as 00Sheerzr said. just get some boyesen reeds. I ported my stock cages as well. There are some tricks of the trade on what you can do to save money. the tors kit is a great mod and will help you on the jetting. I would look into some suspension because the stock sucks. I added yfz 450 shocks to the stock arms and what a great mod. Added +2+1 arms and even better. So best of luck and ride the shit out of it!

Pull off the filter/filters and look at the slides. Look and see if the idle needle is making contact with the slides. I had this prob at first and found out that I had to shave off more of the carb so the idle screw will reach in more to the slides. Next I would have to say if those are ok then look at the choke tube. I also tried that way of syncing the carbs by look and all i can say is that testing with the air flow meter and they are off. It was a great tool to invest in for around $30 i think. And plus it comes in handy on other motors later on.

There are alot of builders out there. If you have the money for porting then the time is now for it if this will be the first bore. That way you will get the full life of the porting on those jugs. Just contact a builder and talk it over on what your wanting out of the bike and what your mods are. They can port match to your pipes and what not. But the power is in the porting of the jugs and I wish I would have done it when I first got the bike. Its a new animal!!!

With the basic bolt on's I was running 13-41 and it was great. Then the last trip I wanted to come out of the hole fast and be able to hit 3rd before the whoops so I went down to a 12t up front. Well sense then I have been P&P done and what a new ball game. I some how hit 6th and topped out in a bowl and didnt like the feeling of already being topped out so I went back to a 13 and will see how it runs this new years at glamis. If not then Ill move up to a 14. But it also depends on what tires your running. Im running 21x12-8 haulers.

i use to run the 10w40 atv oil because I have so many damn bikes in the shop and always changing oil so it is on hand. I switched to type F tranny oil and have never looked back. I split my case about 6 months ago and everything looked like new. I have no slipping on the clutches and those still look brand new after a year of hard dune riding. But everyone will have their .02 on what oils to run and mix with gas. So you can take it from anyone you want when your jar gets full.

How are you going by sound... are you rev'n the bike or are you riding the bike? Because you cant jet without a load on the motor. Also have you synced the carbs? Like Savage420 said. read those pages and really read the one that explains whats going on with the carb are what part of the throttle. What is your compression with the 20cc domes? And what fuel oct are you running? If you have changed fuel mix ratio your jetting will be off as well.

If you can see inside to the piston then your missing a reed. When you get everything back together, you need to sync your carbs. If they are out then one piston will be doing all the work. A lot of people think that banshee's suck down low. If your are jetted right and your carbs are synced then you will have no prob with low end on the bike.

I now after I put my Noss head back on that the bike took right around 1/4 of a gal. I also found this site that helps explain what happens when you change the mix ratio http://www.challengers101.com/CoolantMix.html Hope this helps some people out.

Call dony at pcp racing off 32nd st and just north of greenway. Or kenz cycle tec down town. Stay away from north valley honda. Those are two places that I have gotten my bikes dynoed and they are with in 1hp of eachother.