GrMeyer

Welcome, I think that the 330s will be way to rich? I would start with around 290 depending on temp. The 25s are stock pilots. You might be able to get away with those but maybe not. Im wondering why they didnt have 27.5s with pods on. As for the needle. I would put it in the middle for a starting point. For the Air screw. I would start at around 1 turn out from fully seated. Due to that fact you have the lid and some holes in there. Read up on this site to help you under stand the jetting of the banshee a little more. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html You will not like the banshee when it is not running right. But when it runs, Your face will hurt from so much. Also make sure your getting the carbs synced as close as you can get them. Or one side will come on sooner then the other. Causing a really shitty bottom end. Best of luck.

Im going to go with oct. For riding up a hill WOT in 2nd gear, there will not be that much air going through the rad as much as it would be for a WOT drag. So im taking a guess that your heating up and starting to det. Are you running any timing? When was the last time your radiator was flushed? Are you running the stock impeller? Are you Jetted for WOT and really not running it lean? Are you running a aftermarket head?

I could see spacers for the rear. But for the front it is a bad idea. You will get alot of bump steer. And not good for you being in the woods. Your best bet is to find some +2 arms. And the spacers are a nice penny as well. You will be almost half way to a rear axle that offers lifetime. Also look into the suspension forum. There are lots of these already that have been talked about.

+1 Best thing you can read about the carbs on the banshee!!!

What Oct are you running? You might have had a batch of shitty gas.

Also look into the rad and see if there is any build up? If there is, go and buy the bottle of flush out at the local auto parts. You dont use much. Because if I remember, the coolant is only around 2/3's of a half gal.

Break the motor in at what ratio you plan on using to run. Most of the guys run 32:1 with no probs. My bike wasnt buring all the oil so thats why I went down to 40:1 and rejetted.

Pull the petcock and clean the screens that are in there. Most of the time, the reserve screen will have shit on it. I like to flush them out when I redo my top ends.

Shit... I always jet up one and see if it gets worse. Then if it is then I just back down two and see how it rides. I keep jetting down tell it gets shitty then back up one. Does it rev out with no power? Or does it just bog like its getting to much fuel? And is the 50deg hotter then what you had it jetted for or colder? Ifs it warmer, then your rich.

ill trade you my FMF fattys for them.

Yeah, when im at the dunes. We just you filters that they use to filter paint with to their gun hoppers. Seems to work great, and they are cheap. Well free to me because I know the manager at the body shop right down the street from my house. And they work well for lighting the fire.

I had the same F'n prob. But it some how worked its way out when I was on a Dunes ride. Going up a dune and no gas. Gas was pouring out faster then I could think. Finely got the petcock turns to off with about 1/8 of a tank left. Some how got it back in while the rest of the group just rode right by me. Good think the buggy that was with us ran out of gas. Or I would have been SOL. Well not really, I ride with a GPS watch. But I just got some red locktight and put it back on when I got back to camp. Seems to work ok.

I was mixing at 32:1 but moved to 40:1. Seems to run just fine.

I just used clear silicone sealant on the o ring that seats to the gas tank. I also replaced the on/off o-ring and gasket for around like $7 or something like that from the dealer. Has not leaked for a year sense I have done that.

I found out that if you run a fuel filter, they tend to run the carbs dry. So if you use a gravity feed fuel filter, then you should be ok. But I tried the checker cheap metal one and had nothing but props. Also, there is a prefilter inside the tank to the petcock. So if it gets past that. Then it deserves to get ran in the fuel.

Just remember when you buy used. You will prob have to send them in to get reworked because they are leaking or (to hard) Call up GT thunder or Race tech suspension and see if they can help you out with your shocks. Also. When you look at rebuilding used shocks. Your looking at right around $100 for the front plus parts. So it can add up just as well. That is one reason why I got the YFZ shocks because they offer so much more over after market shocks stock. But you also have to remember that a shock can take up to almost 30mins to fully warm up. So tell then, they will be a little stiff due to the oil still being cold. So doing the YFZ shocks for around $500 to have them valved and sprung for your weight and riding style. They will be right in the area of hanging with shocks around $1500.

Almost every aftermarket maker has ball joints. It just all depends on what your wallet can take. I have got all my arms off ebay for about 25-50% off their own price for being overstock. Just take your time searching for arms. Also look into arms that are 4130 chromoly. And a must is lifetime on defects. The only arms i have had probs with are the Full Flights. Well only their heims. Other then that. They are ok arms for the price.

Sounds like your on the right page for a stating point on jetting. Just make sure your carbs are synced, or you will have one shitty bottom end.

+1

umm im lost. Your wanting jets, but might get pipes? Any of the site sponsors can help you out on jets. If you get after market pipes. With out and air lid and a K&N filter. Your looking at getting around 260-330 mains and a 27.5 pilot. That will also leave room for more after market parts and porting. But that also depends on your weather and elevation you will be riding in. If your riding in really cold weather. I would add 340 and a 350 main jets. But all in all. Pipes will really wake up your bike from stock. Also just taking the lid off is a great mod to really wake the bike up. Just make sure you rejet.

Your running 310s with the lid and snorkel on?

+1

Stick with the Yfz shocks over Works. You will pay out your ass to find shocks that offer same adjustments the yfz shocks offer for being stock. So if you plan on spending around $700 plus for some new works or elkas that offer those adj. Your better off spending around $250ish for a dual rate spring set up for your weight and shocks. But if your weight is in around 150. Then i would have to say that the yfz shocks are to stiff for you. Here is a few questions? Where is the compression and rebound adj screws set at? Where is the preload set at? Back the preload nuts off all the way to the top. Turn the compression screw about 5 turns in from fully out. Same as the rebound.

The J arm is just like it says. It is the top arm and looks like a J and not an A. But I would wait to do the suspension tell you get the quad. Because then you will see what you need for parts. But most likely, the shocks will need to be rebuilt. And the stock pogo front shocks you cant rebuild. And well, they just flat out suck.

use the stock ones. I hate crap kits. The only thing i ever use out of them are the orings, gaskets and the new float needle and seat. If the stock ones are not bent or chipped or what ever. I would just use them. People on here can get you in the ball park of jetting with stock needles.