GrMeyer

Yeah I dont run any leaner then 40:1. I would start with 310mains and some 27.5 pilots.

those do sound rich. But if your at sea level and only going to 1800ft. That is not much of a change. Now if you where going to like 4000ft. Then that would be a big change. Just go and take about 30mins of pre riding on working on your jetting. I would start with around 310's to be safe but see you ending up around 300 or 290's. Also, those 330's seem really rich for not having a ported bike. Unless your running in some 0-Deg temps.

How did it run about 2 months ago? If your still jetted for winter, then you are rich. Does it bog up top (rich)? or does it Rev out like there is no power (lean)? And why are you running the lid? Is it a modded lid? If its not modded, then im going to say that you are rich. Read up on this site. It will help you understand the jetting of a banshee more. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

If you can get a high rev from the air screws then you have the right pilots. But if your more then 3+ turns out on the air screws. I would just put the 25's back in. Also, if you dont have your carbs synced. You will have a shitttttty time trying to tune your bike in for down low.

300 mains Middle clip 27.5 pilots

Depend on your elevation and temp I would start with: Mains - 300 Needle - Middle clip Pilot - 27.5 Air Screw 1-1/2 turns from fully seated

Start with Mains - 320 Needle - Middle Pilot - 27.5 Air Screw - 1-1/2 from fully seated.

Were the springs pitted from rocks hit'n them? If so then new shafts will most likely be in the works. If the shafts get even a slight ding in them. They will not hold oil when that ding hits the seal head. That's one bad thing about buying used shocks. That's why I always tell people not to fallow so close to eachother. Or use shock wears. Just make sure u take them off when washing to wash out the fine dust they keep in. That dust acts like sand paper and eats away at the seal head.

Iagree that ur lean. U should be in the 330's and deff 27.5 pilots. If one side is fine and the other isn't. Then I would look for an air leak. If ur running stock carbs then the stock petcock is fine. Deff pull it out and clean two screens. What is ur float hight set at? Did u check compression as for what gas to run?

I went from gear oil to motor oil to what I fun know which is atf. Have been running it for three years and no probs. The oil u put in will be fine as long as it doesn't have any none friction adders. I also just use the cheapest atf I can find due to changing it after every other dunes trip depending on how hard I ride it.

Mains - 310 Needle - Middle Pilot - 27.5 AirScrew - 1-1/2 from fully seated But this also depends on your Temp and Elevation. But sounds like your going in the right direction.

Pilot and airscrews are the only ones that mess with idle - 1/4 throttle. Mains only effect WOT http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Read up on this

since you have the lid on and are on ported jugs. What pilots are you running? Where is the needle at? Where are the air screws at? What mains are you running? Is the lid modded in anyway? Whats the compression after porting? Are you running anytime? Whats the temp? Whats the elevation? What kind of porting did he do? Try to find out the duration on the ports so the builders can help you out more. Make sure the carbs are synced. Without lid Jetting Mains - 320 if your in the 80's Needle - Middle Pilot - 27.5 Air screw 1-1/2 turns from fully seated. With lid Jetting if stock Mains - 280 Needles - Middle Pilot - 27.5 Airscrew 2-1/4 from fully seated

I would start out with Main - 300 depending on temp. 310 if your in the 40deg's Needle - Middle Pilot - 27.5 Airscrew - 1-1/2 turns from fully seated. Make sure the carbs are synced or you will have shitty bottom end.

I have them on my banshee as well. And another quad. They are great and i have given them some hard times. Look as good as the day as I got them in the mail.

But it also depends on what your wanting out of the bike and willing to do. If your wanting a shock that is set up just for one style of riding and works well. Then I would go with elka over the yfz. I just like the yfz's because they are fully adjustable. So I can tune them in from riding Dunes to Trails. Plus im willing to mod them to work for my needs better.

Anyone would revalve and respring the shocks. There is alot of aftermarket help for those shocks. I would take the Yfz shocks over the pogo elkas. But having two sets of elkas that are fully adjustable are hard to kick. But I cant say that the yfz shocks are soft. I have my preload backed all the way out. It still offers enough stiffness for riding the dunes. I do adj the compression depending on how hard I am riding the bike. But I can say this tho. The yfz shocks are a little soft when you put the HIGH speed action to them. Other then that. They are a great for what they are. Im going to revalve mine and make them into dual rate shocks for next dune season. Should be fun.

No it will not take in more fuel. Only if you can keep from running WOT all the time. Its only compressing the fuel that is already used to be more efficient. When I went from a stock head to 20cc domes. There was no change in fuel intake. IE jetting. The only thing I did change was from burning 91 pump. I know run a 50/50 mix of 91 and 100ll. But my bike does run cooler with the head. There is a nice little mod that you can do for really cheap. I just used some old weather seal to help keep the air from going around the rad. If you look at the front of the bike. There is almost a inch gap on both side of the rad. Sealing that so the air will only go through the rad is a big improvement on staying cool.

Start with Mains - 300 Needle - Middle Pilot - 27.5 Air Screw - 1-1/2 turns out from fully seated. Shoulder get you started. Read up on this site as well http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Make sure your carbs are synced or you will have one shitty bottom end. Have fun!!!

yes and no. But your better off just calling one of the site sponsors. They can set you up with all the jets your needing.

Yes, They will tell you that it is cheaper just to buy new shocks with them. But its not. You can buy the rez's later and have the float valve removed from the pogo shocks to add the rez's. If I remember right, they are around $250 for a rez's later on with compression. But dont quote me on that.

Yeah. They are great!!! I have two quads with them. One of the quads im getting ready to add remote rez's with compression adjustment to them. For the price they are great. Just have them set up for your riding style and weight. And you will be happy. Or if money is tight. You can just add a set of YFZ shocks. I love my YFZ shock as well. Having the compression and rebound adjustments help me to tune the bike in for what im riding on. But people also need to remember that shocks can take up to 30mins to fully warm up. So till then. The oil will be cold so the shock will be a little stiff. But when warmed up and fully tuned in right. It will make for one hell of a sweet ride.

From riding MX, Dunes to trail riding. It all depends on your riding style and what your looking to get out of the bike. If you use the bike year round for different riding styles, then an adjustable shock with Preload, Compression and Rebound will be the big money pit on those. Thats why alot of people like the YFZ 450 shocks for just a bolt on shock. They offer those adjustments for how easy you can get them. You can get them set up for dual rate springs and get them revalved to hang with any of the big dogs out there. I use to have works and do not like them one bit. But for the price they are, they do offer a big improvement over stock. I have had my front Pro Series 3-way adjustable damping piggyback shocks with Triple-Rate Springs from them and they would only last about 30mins of riding in the dunes tell they heated up and started fading. The fixed rez's on them are a joke. The Stock YFZ shocks rez's are about 2/3 bigger then the works. I tried to send them back and they would not fix the shocks even just having them for only 2 weeks. I have had the rear shocks rebuild by them and they are shit. Their valving is different then other shock valving, so most places that rebuild shocks take a guess at them for valving. I tried to have my rear set up 4 different times on my raptor with the works valving kit in there and could not get it dialed in. Called elka last year and they had the rear shock set up right from day one. Same as all of my other elka shocks I have. 4quads and a rhino. And they are willing to work with you as well. And now that they have a main dealer here in the US. The turn around time is half now and not having to wait for the shipping to canada and back. But for around 500 to have the yfz shocks revavled and sprung. You will have shocks that would cost you right around $1200 new with the same adjustments. Just my .02 But if you can find a set of used PEP or Axis shocks. Call me, Ill buy them hands down over anyone.

Thats the good old case of who is the better rider!!! Well done...

I run the fatty's with a dune port and the bike flat out runs its ass off. But I know im starving the bike of its full potential. So bigger carbs for next dune season. But I say if you have the pipes, keep them.