GrMeyer

Go to the local air port(small plane's) and get some 100ll and mix it with the 91 pump. Im in the same boat as you. I run 3gals of 100ll and 2 gals of 91 which comes out to be 96.4 oct. If you mix 2gal of 100ll and 3gal of 91 that oct comes out to 94.6 www.100ll.com is where I try to shop around for my gas before I go and buy 55 gal drum of it. I have 4 bikes that use 100 oct. So it does add up. Try to get in with the manager and see if he can sell you gas that is out of date. My buddy of mine told me about that and they would only sell it to him in the drums. So just shop around and see whats going. I also like running the 100ll because its half the price of reg race gas where im at. I have ran the LL for over 3 years now and no long term effects from it. I have been inside of my raptor motor that ran it for 3 years and everything was clean when I went in to do a re ring it. Have looked at the top end on my banshee and ports and everything was clean when changed out dooms. But there are people that dont like it and have their reasons. That is the cheapest way I can see you upping the oct level to run the bike. But if your not running any dooms or timing. I would just run the 91 and call it a day.

I have had the chance to work with some of the guys down at lonestar and have some of there products as well. They are great to deal with. My brother has laeger arms on his raptor 700 and are sweet and easy to set up. The Lonestar have hiems up the top arms which I dont like. I have never liked hiems and never will. So it will all come down to what your wanting out of the arms. They are both great arms.

I got my front end arms for under $200 shipped to my door. Straight from the factory and brand new. Got a set for my dads raptor as well for the same price. And I still get the lifetime!!!

My local shops never have the jets I needed. And then if they had the jets. They would only have 1 of the jet i needed. So I just ended up ordering from like 250-350 mains jets. Just contact a site vendor and go from there!!! As Banshee#44 said for starting points. Sounds good to me. And repacking is easy. Just make sure you dont pack them to tight. The hardest part is getting all the old shit out.

Damn you Snop...You got me sucked into that damn page. Can I have about 10mins of my life back? What someone needs to do someday is take all the damn pipes and run one motor. Give everyone just one less mind blowing food for thought. Stroking...If you got them. Just run them tell you can see what your wanting more of. LOW. MID or HIGH

Well there is a difference on drags and trail riding. So you will need to decide on where you want your power to be. Down low, Mid or Top. I wouldnt go Top unless your just want to flat out drag. I would shoot for kind of an all around pipe. Everyone is going to have their .02 to give you. But here is a ? that a builder will ask you. What do you plan on doing with the motor later on down the road? Are you going to get it ported? I have Fattys and think they are a great all around pipe. I have tried T-5's and love them as well. But this bike I have now came with them so I didnt see then need to buy a new set that worked great for what I was doing. As you can guess buy now, you can do alot of things to the banshee. It just all depends on what your wanting out of it and how deep your pockets are.

Post in the Jetting forum to get help with your cpi's Those pipes are also not made for slow go trail riding. But when you post over there. You will also need to state All motor mods. Temp and Elevation.

You can do jumps on any quad and anything out there. The landing is what im scared of. The stock front end on the banshee is way out of date and the shocks blow. The rear shock is a good shock if it has been serviced or is almost new. Most shocks need a rebuild about every two to three years. You can get more out of them but then you start looking at replacing other parts. I like to keep my rebuild cost down. So just a seal head, oil and a piston wear band and a recharge when done. I have always gone with +2+1 arms and after market shocks. You can only go so fast till the back cant handle anymore or you cant take the ass kicking anymore. Up grading the suspension in my eyes is a must for the banshee if your wanting to jump. You can get way with the yfz shocks. But if your going to be jumping. I have found that the High speed valving is to soft for the banshee. Having a set of shocks set up for your weight, riding style and bike is a BIG KEY.

Clean the carb. If it has been over a year then I would clean them. I clean mine every year. But clean the bottom of them every time I rejet. Here is some food for thought The air screw is most effective between idle through 1/8 throttle. The pilot (slow) jet is most effective between 1/8 through 1/4 throttle. The jet needle is most effective between 1/4 through 3/4 throttle. The main jet is most effective between 3/4 through wide-open throttle.

I love my Fatties. That just sounds funny...

Cool Head +4 timing Pods only if your not riding in water or mud And always staying on top of your jetting.

Main jets will only effect your 3/4 to WOT. My guess your jetting is off down low. Here are some things you can do 1. I change my coolant from 50/50 to a 75water/25coolant mix. 2. If you look at the front of the bike and look at the rad. You will see gaps on both sides. I used window seal trim to help keep air from going around the rad. 3. Get a cool head if you dont already have one. 4. The banshee wasnt made to go slow. So keeping up speed to keep air going through the rad. So if this means you need to back off and then speed up to your friends then do so. Thats how I had to ride when I lived in Ky and Tn 5. Making sure your jetting is always spot on.

Yes and no. It will only help tell you burn a hole in a piston. You will need to learn how to start jetting the banshee. They are easy after you have learned. Just take your time and read up on it. If your like me. I need to learn hands on. There is a page on here somewhere that shows all the parts of the carbs and what they do. Depending on what main jets are in the bike. I would at least go up 3 or maybe even 4 just to be safe and work down from there. Contact a site sponsor and get a kit of main jets. This way you can jet for the weather and soon to come motor mods. Read up on this site so you can have a better understanding on jetting the banshee and the signs of a rich or lean condition. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Another grassy field I would love to play in some day. Alky has always been on my brain sense I was young and always seeing the flames come out the exhaust at night racing the hills at Glamis. I have read and read. But still havent a clue. Maybe in a year or two ill try it out and see how i like it. But best of luck! I have heard great things from running Alky. But I just cant see Play duning on Alky and not getting the full use of it. Hope they guys on here can help you out. They have all helped me in the past with my probs.

you didnt say anything about porting. I run 330's and 340's at Glamis in the winter months. When I wasn't ported I was running 300 and 310's. The only thing the air screws are the most effective between idle through 1/4throttle. The jet needle is most effective between 1/4 through 3/4 throttle. The main jet is most effective between 3/4 through wide-open throttle. When you do plug chops. All you are trying to do is see if your main jet is set right. Then you work on getting the needle set. Then the pilot/air screw's. When your are working on tuning in the air screws; people need to remember to re sync the carbs. Or one carb will come on sooner then the other. Read up on this site to help aid in jetting the banshee. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Fuel grade and Oil will also have an effect on the ring color.

Its always safe to jet up then down. Depending on if you are running a lid or not. Main with lid I would start at 260 Main without lid. I would start at around 290. Those should put you on the rich side. Read up on this site. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

I leave the cap off and keep top'n it off. I also pick the front end up and back end up and drop them. Just to help move any air. After that it should be good. Just take it down the street and come back and let it sit for about 5 mins. Take cap off and top it back off. Then ride the piss out of it!

pull the carb out from the intake boot and pull the four screws from the bottom of the bowl. Look at the mid of the bottom of the carb for the Hex nut. It should have 3 numbers on there. IE (240). Read up on this site. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

I think it is right around 1/4th - 1/3 of a gal.

I would step up your mains. With no lid on I would start at around 290. Needle in the middle and put in a 27.5 pilot. 30's are way rich. Prob your prob on getting to much gas down low and smoking. What oct gas are you running? With that low of compression you should be able to get away with 87 oct.

best money spent to know you have your carbs working together!

contact a builder on here and ask them if they have an idea of what the floats should be set. You might get lucky and someone will just reply it on here for ya

sounds like you need to learn to throw your weight around on the bike. or feather the throttle rather then just pin and go. But having a well built shock for your style of riding will always help keep the wheels to the ground while the bike stay flatter better. But more then likely, your rear shocks is in well need for a rebuild. The stock fronts just blow donkey.

Read up on this site. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Depending on how much your lid is modded. It is hard to say for a starting point. If you did a start up and the bike rev's then I would look for an air leak. Is there a reason on why you went with a bigger needle? Stock seems to work just fine for about 75% of banshee owners. 27.5 seems a little rich on the bottom end with 1-1/2 turns out. You might want to back those off to about 2 turns out. I was able to run 25 pilots with my fattys and pods. I now run 27.5 pilots with a dune port. Depending on the lid. I would start with almost a 280's and work down from there. Put the stock needles back in and put them in the middle one clip up from the middle. 25 pilot with 1-1/2 turns out from seated. I hope you are letting the bike warm up before you rip on it. Having the bike cold will cause it to run different then warmed up. It should cause a bog being cold. Make sure the carbs are cleaned very well and after that make sure you have your carbs synced or you will have a hard time dialing in the idle - 1/4 throttle.