GrMeyer

First one is for without the lid. Sorry I didnt catch it tell i hit send... And it doesnt have the edit button anymore.

It depends on if you want to run the lid or not. With the lid Mains - 310 Needle - Middle Pilot - 27.5 Air Screw - 1-1/2 Turns from fully seated With the lid Mains 270 Needle - Middle Pilot - 27.5 Air Screw - 2 turns out from fully seated. All this is a starting points. Each bike is different from one another. But those should get you close for starting. Read up on this site as well if you havent already. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Well said. I dont know how people do it. But I could see if you are doing a long distance race which where then you can get the dual gasser. Which will allow you to switch. But I had a long distance race and the damn throttle broke on me. It was not worth the money for what you pay for it. You can get some other bolt on parts for that price of that damn thing. But like the rest of the bolt on parts for the banshee, they will really make it wake up and shine for what it really was built for.

I agree with Loco! Read up on this site to help you understand the jetting of the banshee and what does what. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Also, what is your compression? There is no need to be running the full effect of the C12. You can lean it down with some pump gas to get more gas out of the mix. Unless you just like throwing money to make it rain. Also if your having shitty bottom end, check your carb sync

I would leave the Pilots due to that fact that your only one turn out from fully seated. Just try turning counter clock to lean it out. But that will only be from idle-1/4 throttle that the air screws and pilots effect.

Revvvvv' n with no power = LEAN. Hey Mast... When you are saying 3rd-4th clip lost me on the lean or of the rich? Some people read needles different then others. So just and FYI so everyone else know.

You do have a alot of adjustments for jets. But like anyone. Stock will not always be on a banshee. I would look at getting all the jets you dont have from 260-330. That will provide you with ease of being able to tune the bike and not always wondering if you are lean or not. 2nd note. Turning the air screws in makes them richer. That site i posted up there helps explain how the carbs work and what needs to be done to help you tune them in. What mix ratio are you running? Also, why are you getting different carbs? Are they ones with a TORS kit on them?

Also make sure that your carbs are synced or you will have shitty bottom end. IE one will be working harder then the other.

Are you running the lid or not? If your not then your jetting is to lean for those cold temps. If it was mid summer then you might be seeing the 260 mains. If your running the lid then turn the air screws in to around 2-1/2 turns from fully seated. If your not running the air box then the air screws should be around 1-1/2 turn out for starting. FYI the air screws only mess with idle to 1/4 throttle. 1/4-3/4 is needle and WOT is the main.

Looks good. Try moving the needle clip up one to help lean it out on the bottom end if you thing your running rich down low.

Are u running the lid? Arethe jugs ported?

Like said above. We also need to know what other motor mods are done to the bike. Like are you running the lid or not.

Are you running the lid? If you are then your mains should be in around 240-260 depending on temp. You should be able to get away with the 25 pilots. If you have the lid off, then the pilots need to be 27.5 and the mains around 290-300 for starting points.

I would start with 300. Needles in the middle. 27.5 pilots and about 2 turns out from fully seated. And is there a reason why you are running 110 oct?

If the weather got warmer then ur rich

Anything will run great with no load on it. List ur mods and jetting. And did the weather get hotter or colder from when the bike ran ok.

http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

The pilots do go in 25,27.5,30 and the mains go in 10s like said. Sometimes they are hard to read. But im thinking that the 5 looks like a 0 if just quickly looked at.

What was ran before for oct?

On the left carb, there is a outlet for the choke tube cross over. On the left. Just the same but other side. If you are missing it then dont ride the bike. You can get a hose at the local autostore to fit in its place if its missing.

well are building your bike and may be getting a 421. Because thats no where close to stock. So you will need to find out if your running your motor or the 421. Will he give you the exhaust he is using? Or do you have to buy your own? Or are you guys just trading motors? But for the motor you have now. I would prob look at the T5s. I have Fattys that I love in the dunes on my ported motor. Just saving up for some new carbs for next year. And maybe some CPIs inframes.

Just only pulling for starts and stops I see. I do alot of quick down shifting in the dunes. So the clutch only really gets pulled for starts, easy riding and stopn, That is if I remember to use the damn thing.

Sounds like your bike is already set up for a 4mil. Just need the crank!

Everything stretches. If its and old cable, it should already be stretched. I have tried the 6hd springs and it was hard as hell and not fun to pull the clutch in. So i went back to 3&3. Have been running it for about two years now with nothing bad to say. But if you have some Popi arms. Go ahead and try the 6. But just think back on how much you really shift when you are riding the dunes.

try to shoot for around 155ish