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littleblue99

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  • My Banshee (optional)
    1999 Blue Banshee 358cc Weisco Pro Design Head 22cc Domes mild porting holeshot xcr's 1.5" spacers Renthal Fat Bars Nerfs Uni Filter 6-pack rack Dg GNCC front grab bar

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  1. mine was doing the same thing after i rebuilt it. it was the parking brake wires that used to go up to the switch on the left side of the handle bars. make sure they arnt touching eachother because that trys to tell the quad that its in park and doesnt let it rev. they may look ok or maybe ones grounding on the frame letting it think the same thing, just check them out and hopefully it helps you
  2. hey can you send me a PM I'd like to buy one of these fancy videos!
  3. got it all put back together after I knew it ran good, here it is.. looks alot better than before is all I can say! haha
  4. I had a blaster those things are sweeeet, not as fast as a Banshee but hey they are so much fun to ride and just throw around esp if you have some better shocks and tires you can jump them pretty good. heres what mine looked like after I did a frame up build.
  5. heres mine, just did a full rebuild, got the cylinders bored and ported, painted the frame and hubs. It has 1.5" spacers, fmf fattys and fmf powercore 2's, holeshot xcrs, renthal fat bars and some other stuff. I love my Banshee and I can't wait to get more stuff for it, these things are the best without a doubt
  6. turned out to be the stupid emergency brake wires, my ebrake is long gone but I must of seen the wires un-done when i put the wiring back on, thinking they needed to be twisted together.. WRONG ! those wires cant be touching or it wont rev.. but I also put some 330 mains in her. she runs sooo good now thanks guys for your help
  7. and I live at sea level..not sure about the compression, its alot more than it was before though! it was so easy to kick before i put the new pistons in.. still started 3rd kick when cold and 1st when hot and had great power., but now the compression and the kick to get it started feels much better, nothing super hard like to worry about something being wrong, just good compression now.
  8. I do want to run it without the lid, the guy told me its a "mild" port and its nothing crazy, will still be reliable to ride and not just kill the engine after a few rides.. as far as my carbs, they are syncd , not sure about the air screw i can check tomorrow, ive never messed with it, but i'm not the first owner either. the clip was on the 3rd and ive tried it on the 5th (towards the point) trying to give it more fuel but it didnt seem to help.. I'll have to check my pilots also. Im going to the local dealer tomorrow to either buy or order some jets.. the 27.5 pilot and some 300,320,340 mains. its about 50-70 degress right now, I live up in Maine so its always changing temps ha. I'll let you guys know tomrrrow if it goes or not, I'll go off your specs for mine without a lid, thanks guys!
  9. ok I'll try that, It does seem like something other than the jetting since i didnt think some mild porting would make it run that much different.. I'll still get some bigger jets but it should atleast be reving up and maybe running rough or something, not just bogging right down and not letting it rev at all, its seemed electrical to me..
  10. yes and nothing was changed from when before i rebuilt it as far as wiring, i took it out, set it on my floor, and after painting my frame, put everything back in.. the clutch side was already cut and spliced together by a previous owner, I only have a dirtbike style kill switch on that side, and the throttle side i cut and spliced the wires together, ive tried unhooking the two under the tank and also the one coming right from the black box above the left cylinder.. all with the same result still.. does it sound like electrical or does it sound like jetting? after looking at the jetting page i think i'll need about a 320 with my engine work.. and the fact i live at sea level
  11. ok so I took my top end apart because my friends uncle wanted to port my cylinders for me, he used to race the RZ's and also build them so he loves these engines.. anyways. It ran good before, and wasnt the highest on compression, but already had the cooled head, 22cc domes, full fmf's uni filter with the lid on, and I'm at sea level. So I got the cylinders bored its a 358cc now, all new gaskets, seals, reeds (boyseen super stock) and its ported. while it was apart I also painted the frame metallic gray as seen in my photo. I got it back together, it runs and idles but wont rev up, I can put it in gear, let the clutch out but cant gain speed and in neutral it does the same. It will idle good, but when i get about 500rpm off idle it just boggs right down.. not sure if its the porting or the good compression or what.. but my mains are at 260 which seems low right? not sure if this is maybe the problem? ive tried so many things, making sure all the paint is ground off where the wires bolt to the frame, new plugs twice, new plug caps, ive replaced the reed gaskets twice, Ive tested my tors I unpluged it, still did it.. I moved my clips down all the way to the 5th (towards the point) of the needle, still does it, when its doing this bogging it doesnt rev at all, its staying at a constant rev, almost sounds like a very low rev limiter, around 1500-2000 rpm.. Not sure though... the only other thing I can think of is my mains, I'm waiting untill tuesday now Im going to get some 300-340s I think.. let me know guys, I really want to get this thing back on the dirt!
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