LS1Inferno

you can't tell porting with the eye you need a ruler to tell whats been done

tie rods, look fine or not that likely the problem.

the rod welded to the lever too, he hit the rod to break it loose from the lever and input shaft.....he hit it a little hard.

lets see..breakdown.. stock length swinger and j arms haha and some works tripple rates with rezzies for 60 bucks on craigslist brand new was still in plastic wrap then on the rear he has a P.E.P rear shock.stock lenght with remote rezzie thats stiffness,rebound,and compression adjustable

its all good thats what we are here for...

right now hes stock on the rear. just a PEP remote resivoir shock. and on the front the little bastard (LOL JK) found a brand new set of works tripple rate with remote ressi on CL for 60 yes SIXTY freaking dollars hahah so just here this one looks good, and he ahas shipped all over the world and Ebay Shock oh and that seller is a member here also.

even blue smoke on both sides = good, its two stoke. buy the clymers before you get two far into it.... id start there read about cleaning the carbs. you could also have a cracked reed. that great compression for stock... also dont worry too much about not knowing a lot about them you bought the secont best thing to learn about fixing. the only thing simpler then the banshee two stroke is the freaing blaster, if you think these are complicated dont even thing about working on a 4 poke LOL. i hate valves...

then all your getting is a different shock and suspensn if there is no difference then just bite the bullet for shipping and spend the 220 on a better shock.. hell my brother just got a real good aftermarket shock for 100.. and if you pay shipping to there itll still be less then 220

well what is the difference between your and his suspension? other then the shock?

well it depends on how bad you welded it. if you just welede it to the ball it might come out on the clutch side, if you did like me an dmushroom both ends you have to put a puller and beak the rod and ball apart hopefully the screw it welded better then the rod, (uaually is) and then pull the rod out of the other end. youll need a new rod, maybe clutch actuator, and a pancake bearing

same here i relocated mine to craigslist

im glad your happy LOL and with a 15 front what rear and tires are you running? and for god sake DO NOT i repeat DO NOT, just get on it, start and go. let it warm for at leas a minute. you will wear out the top end and it could seize pistons, its really bad for the bikes.

chain and gearing is preference. id go with 13/41 or 42 but DO NOT by aluminum sprockets. they wear out WAYYY to fast and if you dont pay close attention to your adjustment you will end up with no teeth on it.

yes, but unless you have someone who can rebuild the shock there is no point you need to have it refilled with oil, and have a special setup to recharge it properly.

thats the whole joke its a one liner..... google clubing baby seals.

yeah deffinatly start out on a 250 its much easier to ride then the 125 even though its bigger it has the power to get you out of trouble.

i cut mine out of some thing bicycle tire.

you need to spit the cases. sounds like a shift fork problem

you know they say dogs take after their owners. w many times do you thing the dog was "trained" lol

pipes is the main thing. pipes reeds, intake and maybe some gearing and you keep up to him if you have a decent top end.

it means your bike is running more effeciently now. its holding the oil in the cases not burning them.

that little white thing is the neutral switch cover, it just covers the back of the shift drum,, i t can be leaking form there of the seal or the output shaft. IDK if there is an o ring there i dont remember i just silicone mine.

Works PDF

WORKS, rebuilds the shocks. or you can find a good one on ebay your just going to have to bite the bullet and pay shipping.