LS1Inferno

Did you adjust the clucth per clymers, the screw in the middle and the lever arm undre the left carb. Loosen the nut hold the lever arm till it touches and adjust the screw untill the arm arrown points ar the arrow on the case, and if you used old spring typically we just put the HD ones in every other spring so three HD and three regular. and did you pull out the ball and rod and check them.

EDIT i didnt see you already removed TORS unplug the black box under the tank right above the left cylinder.

OH brown braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAppppppppp

Visit My Website Use one of these and beat in the driver tip before you put on the impact thingthis is my FAVORITE tool for getting sstuck shit out.

I dont doubt the power with the carbs, i doubt the opower with stock carbs AND those mods.

yeah i clean mine, in a parts cleaner, but i sure as shit dont polish anything unless its starting to pit, or oxadize.

I say full of it, no way but im not a builder, just ported and t3's wheres the link

Put some grease on the tap it will hold the shavings.

OMG someone who doesnt take their time to polish everything just to get it dirty again, HIGH FIVE.

just make sure everything is in neutral, once you set on the case, just shift it and see if it works,

HAHAHAHAHHAAHHAHAH Back on topic, when you mash the throttle from a lower RPM and it goes from pulling slow to HOLD ON thats when you hit ht epower band,

I bet theres some thing to change for a two stroke becuae you still have two sparkes per cycle but there are two less strokes in the cycle. just remember its half.

TTT i who has done it?

I have never had andy OEM petcock leak, and yeah a complete rebuilt kit is like 10-15 and the whole thing is 24. If you dont need the pingel i wouldnt spend the money, unless you Will need it, or just like shiney new stuff.

i dont know about yours but my studs (factory) are in WAY to tight to mess with and easy out, youll end up breaking it, is ther ANY bolt stickin out to weld to? ive done that a few times.

I dont know about the rest of you but i always ride my Shee like i stole it, i just take the time to fix it

I was thinking about something like one off a streetbike, it has a mechanical thing that shuts it off at a few PSI like 5 or 7 somehitng like that. im tired of running bowls dry, and dont want the cost of dooing it too much and i have a pump and was going to convert it to DC anyhow.

Anybody put one on a banshee and would like 5-PSI pump off a carb street bike work?

Thats great.

Yeah no shit. i can go through a banshee with newish everything for less then that.

Las Vegas has just about more mexican tire shops then mexican. or tires, i can get just about anything for $40

you should go bigger if its too lean it will act boggy as well. aslo check the float height.

$1000 dig out the receipts sounds like they screwed you. Yep basic tests, spark fuel. timing, reeds, start with the simple and work your way from there.

Yeah i said 120+ it only has 150HP and tires that are for atv rims are ridicules i wouldnt pay that much for them anyhow. Im not saying im to cheap to do it right, i just dont see paying 600 for some new tires and rims just to ride it a few times when i can get car tires that are fine for ~40 a piece i just need rims that will fit to put them on and i would probably have some more faith in atv tires if i wanted to spend then money on a set of lockers. Does anyone have some REALLY cheap 12 or 14" polaris rims?

Yeah the mobil 1 is synthetic i think in going to switch over from my expensice castor and try it