bansheesandrider

FYI, there are several places that sell the stock one for less than $162, not that I would spend the money for a stocker. I think a billet is the only way to go. I don't believe in cheap engine parts, I think you get what you pay for and everybody on here knows the pitfalls of the stock basket.

It is the second best mod you can do to a banshee, with pipes being the first. Most guys do pipes first because it makes a big difference, and it needs to be done before ANYTHING else. Then guys usually do timing and compression mods because they are cheaper than anything else. After that it is usually reeds, porting, carbs, and then more displacement.

Are you using castle nuts or regular nuts? Castle nuts have the notches in them for the cotter pin? if they are castle nuts, no it is not safe, and if they are reglar nut, get some castle nuts and you will be fine. I would want to have maximum thread engagement, I have old style Lonestar D arms and A arms on my 89 that use the Warrior screw in ball joints and one time when I was pounding whoop de doos, I had a nut pull off through all the threads AND the cotter pin.

Back in the late 80s, early 90s Bilss pipes were popular but I don't know much about them. The Stage 4 intake is Trinity's 2 into 1 setup. 2 into1s usually improve bottom end power at the sacrifice of top end power. Most, but not all people think a 2 into 1 is easier to jet also.

It could be what you said, it could be something stuck in the crank, did it blow up or what is the reason it was apart? Beyond that, there are a wide variety of reasons that it does not turn, we need more info. Get the cylinders off, and see what is going on. Then give us some more info.

Probably about the same as a Banshee with +2 arms on it.

It definetely needs to have a chain guide mount, but I don't know if I would send it back after all it took to get it. I would fab one up yourself and weld it on instead. I know it sucks to spend that kind of money and it is not right, but sometimes it is just easier to deal with it yourself and be done with it.

As for the clutch, maybe, maybe not. Is the clutch properly adjusted at both the bars and the pressure plate screw? Since you just got the bike, I would recomend you get a service manual and read it cover to cover, and then get on here and start reading the threads on here about anything you are unclear about. Since you have to take the clutch cover off to adjust the pressure plate, you should pull the plates out and inspect and measure them. I personally prefer the genuine Yamaha manual because I think it is more detailed, but it is more expensive. Most guys on here say get a Clymers manual, but I have never used one. It is possible to download a manual from here I believe and it is possible to get it from Ebay in several forms- printed book, CD, PDF file emailed to you, etc. It is your choice.

Did you file and/or sand the inside of the carb where you drilled the hole so there are no burrs to hang up the slide? Either your slide is sticking, you have an air leak or you are lean to cause this.

It depends on how loose they are. When my Lonestar axle broke, I discovered that the splines in my brake and sprocket hubs were wore. So I figured that was the time to replace all three. They did the axle under warranty and I bought the RPM kit that flips the axle over so the sprocket hub goes on the larger splines of the axle, this makes it last much longer. Another thing I learned the hard way, is clean your shit up before sending it out to be chromed, PC'd, painted, or plated. I sent out a swingarm for chrome that still had the paint on it and could not tell it was cracked. They stripped it, saw the crack and chromed it anyway. I am mentioning this because now that you zinc plated your axle and hubs, it is going to be really hard to inspect them to see how wore the splines are. If you can see wear in the splines with the plating on there, they should definetely be replaced.

If you are playing with2 strokes you should have a jet kit. My kit has 2 of every size from 250 t0 340 or 350.

Banshees that came with the factory footguards have a flatspot on the footpeg to stop the kickstarter. Early bike that did not have footguards, the kickstarter goes all the way down and the only stop is inside the clutch cover. If you have aftermarket pegs or modified pegs then you probably only have the internal stop.

The partk brake rev limiter is limiting when the wire is grounded, when the park brake is set the switch there closes and connects the wire from the CDI box to the ground wire in the harness. If you want to do away with the limiter, just cut the wire out of the bike harness at the CDI plug and you will be good to go. With the wire cut out of the bike harness and still in the box side of the plug, it keeps it from becoming grounded. This is how my wife's 97 is set up and it gives us no problems. I know in 97 when this feature first appeared the wire was green/yellow, I don't know about later years.

With that small of a dome you should at least be running a pump/race mix if not straight race fuel. I would also say it is to lean with 300s, I would put 330s or 340s in it and do a plug chop and go from there. I would not change carbs, I would make sure all the passages are clean on the carbs that are on it when you rejet. Take them completely apart 1 at a time so nothing gets mixed up between them, some parts are different between the left and right carb. Once they are apart, spray cleaner through all the passages and blow them out with air and then put them back together.

Reeds will run through the engine without hurting anything usually. Ditch that boost bottle, it is doing nothing for you except damaging your intake boots. And if your intake boots are cracked, you have an air leak, and it needs to be repaired ASAP. You can get stock boots for around 25 bucks from CheapCycleParts.com. Get on the web and check them, or Apache Motorcycles in Arizona or Bike Bandit.com. Apache used to be Yamaha Suzuki of Arizona and they were about the cheapest place I could find for OEM parts.

If you pull the lid you might have to go to a 27.5 pilot also.

I run the Klotz Flex Drive 30 and I change it every 20 hours. I have a Trail Tech Vector that has an hourmeter in it. The oil looks almost as good coming out as it did going in, it is just slightly darker in color but it is still reddish purple not black. I have also had Zero tranny or clutch problems doing this.

X2, I got tired of the lame content and quit reading it a long time ago.

Did this guy join up just to promote this stuff?

Go to Dune Guide.com, it will tell you everything you need to know about access, regulations, fees, etc. about any sund dunes you can ride.

Yamaha changed the calipers in 1990, 1989 and older bikes have the bigger pads on the old style calipers. 1990 J arm bikes have the smaller calipers and pads, and the spindles are different also, because of the way the newer caliper mounts.

Your bushing is definetly worn AND if you put the snap ring on without the special notched washer, the gear is going to knock the new snap ring off the shaft right away! If you start half assing your Banshee together with the wrong or insufficient parts you are going to spend alot of time pushing your bike and saying what a piece of shit Banshees are. Anything that can go 70 MPH and can ride farther in a half hour than you can walk in a day should be properly seviced wih the proper tools, parts and procedures. You already said you are finding "surprises" from the previous owner, don't continue his methods. Order a bushing, both washers and the proer snap ring from F.A.S.T. and the shipping won't be so bad, and then your bike will be put together right so you can enjoy it and not worry about when it is going to fail again. When my snap ring came off, I had to replace my crank gear, water pump gear, clutch basket,idler gear and all the washers and snap rings.

On all Banshees with stock control arms, if you need to replace a ball joint you have to replace the whole arm. That is why aftermarket arms are so popular, after the initial purchase, if you need ball joints, that is all you need. I would start with Stellar on here or Lonestar or just start researching on the web.

Yamaha recomends 91 or 93 depending on which is available in your area. Most guys on here that run Amsoil run at least 40:1 I believe. I run Klotz at 40:1 in my bike and have had zero problems. Once you decide on a fuel, oil brand, and mixing ratio, stay with it and jet your bike to run on it at your altitude and temp.

Every time they do it, they write a fictitous story and photoshop some four joke motor into a Banshee frame and say it is the coming thing. They have done this multiple times with the Banshee. And the years they don't use a Banshee, they have put a Harley motor in a 4X4 frame, one year they photoshopped ATV tires on a PWC and said it was a "true" all terrain vehicle. Every April issue is something like this, the key is it is always in the April issue.