bansheesandrider

I have hears good things about the one from Mull Engineering, but the last time I checked their website it was unavailable. You have to install their impeller on the stock shaft. I have taken out 2 ProDesign impellers and they have been heavily wore on the shaft in the seal area.

I am not going to say that the 2 stroke is dead in the marine industry, but it is getting awful hard to find a new 2 stroke outboard or personal watercraft here in Oregon.

Why does he have to pull the CLUTCH cover? The front sprocket and its seal are one the left side of the bike under the STATOR cover, not on the right side of the bike under the clutch cover.

I take everything a dealerships says with a grain of salt. Most dealerships make their money in the service and parts depts. Yamaha recomends that that brake hydraulic parts of a Banshee be rebuilt every 2 years, I have never done my fronts, and have only rebuilt the rear caliper once on the 89 that I bought new. It even has the original pads in the front because you don't use front brakes in the sand much.I used to work for a forklift dealership and there were many times that we sold a brand new truck at cost just because we knew we would make money selling them part and service.

I know on a traditional coil in a car with a distributor and seperate coil there is a positive and a negative terminal on the coil, and if you get them reversed that it severely cuts coil output. According to the Yamaha manual the orange wire goes on the rear terminal of the cil and the black wire goes on the front terminal. But i you look closely at the coil that is backwards based on polarity, and I have heard some guys say you should hook it up the other way. Mine is wired orange/front and black/rear since that is the way it came when I bought the bike brand new from the dealer and it was several years before I even heard about reversing the wires, it has always ran fine that way and I have never bothered to see how it would run wired the other way.

Just because a crank came out of a running bike does not mean it is good. The only way to know what kind of shape a crank is in, is to take it apart and inspect everything. You cannot tell if an assembled crank is good because you cannot see the rod pins to tell if there is any scoring or other damage. The crank pin is the bearing race for the lower rod bearing.I have seen a stock cranks damaged with only ten hours on it. The crank that came out of my father-in-law's bike was already starting to spread, we were taking the crank out to have it trued and welded as soon as it was out of factory warranty. This was a bike ridden by a 70 year old man and was all stock except for paddle tires. He had bought the bike brand new in August 93 at Sandfest and we tore it apart on Thanksgiving weekend 93 to have the crank welded because he had seen what mine looked like when the crank came apart. We were lucky, the crank guys pulled it apart and inspected EVERYTHING, it was all OK, and put it back together and trued and welded it and we never had a problem with it after that. The problem is that once the crank spreads, even minutely, that the rod can wobble and this causes scoring on the crank pin. And that damage cannot be seen without tearing the crank apart. So you should either rebuild your crank properly, buy a rebuilt exchange crank from somebody like Twister Cranshafts, or buy a brand new crank that is trued and welded. I would never buy a used stock crank and drop it it.

There are actually several brands of inserts out there, the good one have pins built into the sides that after you have it screwed in to where you want it, you drive the pins in flush with the surface to lock it in place. Inserts have several advantages over Heli-Coils- they are one solid piece so ther is less chance of leaks, the stay in better when you are removing the fastener, they usually use a standard tap instead of the special Heli Coil tap. The only disadvantage I know of is that sometimes there might not be enough surrounding material in what ever you are trying to fix, a Heli-Coil does not require quite as big of hole.

I am responsible for the mainteneance and repair of a total of 6 Banshees and 1 Blaster that are ridden in the dunes exclusiely, $ of the Banshees and the Blaster where bought new by their owners. Very rarely do any of them ever breakdown. So, am I the exception 7 times. There are multiple posters on here that are saying the same thing I am, that if it is put together correctly and properly maintained, it will be a reliable machine. If I was to look at your "shitbox" as you say, you would have to fix EVERYTHING I say and the way I say using the parts I want used. I have been playing with Banshees for 20+ years and I think it is the best ATV on earth for riding sand, but it is not the best machine for everybody. If you are so down on your Banshee, maybe it is not the ride for you. Oh yeah, every Banshee and Blaster ever made had a TORS on it. And every Banshee made from 1997 on has a park brake rev limiter also.

No, it is not a Heli-Coil. Heli-Coils are like a spring and a Timesert is like an oversize bolt that has the original size thread in it, it is a solid piece of metal. That is why is called an insert and not a coil. It does the same thing as a Heli-Coil in the end result, but it is a different road to get there.

I forgot to mention that my bike is an 89 that I bought brand new in 89 and it has been well taken care of ever since.

All Banshee cases are machined as a set, that is why Yamaha will only sell them as a pair. Some guys luck out when they only replace a top or bottom and have no problems. Other people do it and have all kinds of problems and then they wonder why does this happen. If I had to replace a case, I would only replace them as a set so that I don't have any other problems. If the damage to your cases is small, then I would tear them down and have them welded properly.

There are arrows on the pressure plate and clutch inner hub that must be properly aligned.

Read the pinned electrical thread on here, and then check your coil, stator, and pickup coil with an ohmmeter, make sure your wire harness is in good shape, that yo have good grounds everywhere,make sure your flywheel is good and not corroded, and set your pickup coil gap to .017", about the thickness of a match book cover. Hope this helps.

Then you better find a more qualified mechanic. I have 7 years on my topend, 10+ years on my crank, my clutch is 15+ years old and my bike is over 20 years old. I never have problems with it on a day trip, and I very rarely have problems when we go for a weekend or longer, knock on wood. My bike is stored with fuel in it( with Stabil in it) because we never know when the next riding trip is, it could be in a wek or it could be in 2 months, it just depends on weather and schedules. Anything that is mechanical can break at any time, but if you build it right and stay on top of your maintenance, you should have a reliable bike.Doing things correctly goes a long way in reliability, for instance, when you need to replace a case you need to replace them as a set and not just one half- this might cause other problems down the road that will have you scratching your head. Yamah only sells them as a set for a reason- that is the way they were machined.

The 800 dollar 4 mil kit is misleading, you still need to get it ported to run good, you will need the correct pipes and carbs for it to run at it's full potential. And there will be several other things you need to make it reliable.

Do you want to just rebuild it so it is a reliable stock type motor, or do you want a fire breathing take all comers motor? The bad thing about buying a used motor is that you are getting all their problems and you don't know if it was taken care of or how it was taken care of. If you rebuild what you have and do it correctly, you will know what you have and if it is going to be reliable. When you rebuild you will need to make sure thatthe following parts are good- crank ($350-$400 rebuilt and trued and welded), topend($150-$200 for pistons + $100 for bore job), clutch basket($100-$250 for a billet), kick idler gear bushing($20 from FAST), shift shaft, and then if you want to replace all the Bearings(recomended), seals and gaskets about $300 more. What ever you do, don't cheap out and use parts that are wore out or inferior quality. Remember, you get what you pay for and you want a reliable bike that will not give you problems every time you turn around. Another thing to think about is you Banshee can travel farther in 30 minutes than you can walk all day, do you want it breaking down?

There is a least 1 brand that you do need to remove the nuetral switch to install the casesaver. You can tell because the inside of the case saver looks just like the inside of the nuetral switch. I don't remember what brand it is though.

The above is so not true. My bike gets a complete cleaning and inspection after every riding trip and any thing thay is wrong is repaired. I store my bikes with a full tank of fuel and the carbs are also full, I use Stabil in the fuel and I have not had any problems, even after sitting all winter. You don't do a top end bases on hours, you base it on how much compression you have and if there are any extra noises. You will only spend more time wrenching than riding if you don't fix things correctly the first time.

It all depends on how it is taken care of. I currently have 7 years on my topend and it has only lost 10psi of compression. As long as you build it right the first time, perform regular maintenance properly, use good oil and other products, clean and inspect it after every ride it will last a long time without problems. You might have to do a topend more often on a 2 stroke than a 4 stroke, but in the long run I think a 2 stroke is still less expensive because you dont have to mess around with a valve job or timing chain.

Depending on what staging area you ride out of, some of them have signs that say to stay on established trails. I do know that in the 90s they took away ALOT of good riding in the Oregon Dunes becuase people that live close by don't like the noise. Once again we are fighting with the Ecoterrorists and the forest service to keep our riding areas open down there, and they will use anything and everything that they can to shut us down.

Make sure ALL your jets are clean, that you have the float bowls on the correct carbs, the choke tube between the 2 carbs is in place.the slides are in the correct carb correctly, the carbs are synced. The left float bowl is different from the right float bowl. Also, check for bad reeds and if it still doesn't run right, then you need to do a leak (pressure) test.

I have been running 50/50 since I bought my 89 new, i change it out every 2 years or sooner and have had no problems. I do add a little Water Wetter per the instructions on the bottle.

Mount the pipe on the outside of the hanger and/or put some washers between the pipe and hanger or the hanger and the frame.

We need a picture of you setup. The bearing and washer should all be inside of the pressure plate.

Alf, are you going to be a vendor at Dunefest? I thought we would try Sandfest this year because ever since the Chamber of Commerce has taken over Sandfest it has cost more money every year to go. It used to be you could ride for free, you just had to pay to get into the events. Then they did away with the family pass and now you have to pay just to pass the checkpoint to go out and ride. And it seems like they are raising the price every year. I missed ouy on Sandfest the first year back because I was at St. Anthonys when it happened. I was down there last year on a dat trip with a friend when it was going on and thought there was potential, I just did not have time to get involved with anything because we drove down and back in 1 day and my friend wanted to ride, not look in the vendors area or sit around watching races.