RadarRacing

Yeah , it was good. I was thinking ups or somebody broke something in shipment but ended up making good on it somehow. It should be a good runner. I dont need a motor but if its ever for sale lemme know. Seems like 4 mils are easier to sell than big motors but that one was supposed to run good.

Buckeye, this motor belong to Colby a year or so ago out of oklahoma?

Some single aarm bikes work very well. My single aarm GT chassis handles whoops tons better than my old stocker and it doesnt have half as much travel up front but the back is designed differently. I have dune raced and had a bad whoop related crash..lol.. so a good setup is important to me. Cams single aarm chassis handles rough stuff well also. I doubt all the single aarm chassis guys avoid glamis due to whoops but there is some rough stuff there. I think chassis and frame is as important as motor. I routinely race big motors with my little cub and get out on them by a bike or two in 60' and have 5mph on em. Thats hard for them to gain back in a short flatland race. On the hill it would be much easier but who wouldnt want a bike length outta the hole and have a big high mph motor.

Its cheap and strong , as far as wear I dunno but have seen it on 130hp bikes. Much cheaper for the +12 swingarms than most chains

Added timing helps the bottomend snap the most usually. Yes , adding timing leans the motor out quite a bit.

I usually try to do the needle setting and mainjet settings hand in hand and try to get them both close at the same time. If it is sluggish off idle at all with the needles all the way rich you may need to lean them out and then get the mainjet close too. I would start pribably one or two higher than 165 but that should be close. I would start with the needle in the middle. When you have the mainjet about spot on then do the needle. If you are doing plug chops I like to do a 1/2-2/3rds throttle ride on some type of hilly or dune area and have my plug chop look a decent bit richer than the W.O.T. chop. I like a beer bottle or chocolate colored ring 1mm or more tall. That usually gives me a snappy hard off idle bike that launches hard. If you end up having the mainjet exactly perfect and start leaning or richening up the needle more than 2 clips then you may need to adjust the main again.

Negative squish , makin power since the day trinity opened its doors and signed a deal to have a monopoly on cheetahs. I can only imagine how many cheetahs coulda been sold.

At 1200 feet that setup would probably be close to 168 main give or take a few either way so locos 165 sounds about right at higher elevation. If you have much additional ignition timing jetting requirements will be more. It also depends on needles in the carbs.

Haha. I was just teasin ya bobby. If it can turn a screen door into a boat then it must be worth the $20 to people with screen door boats.

I have a 4mil big bore , trinity domes , 12mm wide squishband , .055 squish right by the bore edge , .045 at the inner edge of the squishband. 150 lbs of compression. It blows orings about every other ride even if I run 114 octane fuel but thats where trinity said it would work. Porting up with low exhaust port duration (190 degrees) and the transfers (134 degrees) I dont want to say what builder because I dont want to give out all the best builders secrets and she would get very mad. It would be easy to figure out tho because she is the only woman builder in the banshee industry. Has many many records and strips when we go to the dunes and she is hot. I agree , the moderators on here are a buncha wussies. If locogato wouldnt beat me up whenever I see him I would say more. I am only 5'4" and 345lbs so I cant run very well in sand.

I use flex seal.

^^^ No such thing. Just find a better dummy. Is anyone else local to you thats good at tuning? I have seen bikes that were hated get tuned correctly and loved. Saw a guy at the track who was absolutely furious at jeff at fast because his bike bogged. I told him it was about 3 or 4 jet sizes too rich. He cussed and cussed it and ended up parting the bike out on here. He needed to go buy a stock 4 stroke IMO.

I like Air strykers just fine. 35s with cel needles are just fine to me. To anyone that hates air strykers all I have to say is you arent right on jetting yet. They have always worked correctly for me with the right needles. The needles they come with are way far off and very rich. I think 35s come with EEG needles. Sounds like the original poster is rich as crap on jetting. Why havent you done a correct plug chop. Pipes can be way hot with unburned fuel spilling into them. I have seen most of them run in the 148 range and 48 pilot. Give or take 2 or 3 either way. I jetted a 421 serval from M/M at 148, 48, CEL leaned out two clips from the middle and it ran great.

Nope , wont hurt it a bit. Let it rip.

When I steal bikes I keep them in my apartment too because if ya dont mother effers will steal yo stolen shit. I hates it when my stolen shit gettin stolen.

You need two different bikes. Lol. I rode my old SS cub in dunes , trails, mx , rodeos. If you have a drag port by a great builder and not a 62hp drag port then you have 98% of a cub. The very best stock cyls are very close to a cub , but those are the top 1% of the drag ported stockers. Most (99%) are just run of the mill, pretty good running bikes that can whoop 450s. 4 mil cubs out of the box are better than most ported stock cyls , lowend , topend , basically everywhere.

No... Explore further , report back.

^^^^ I disagree completely. I never heard of too small or little of a paddle tire cause a bike to bog. I have have plenty of 260-300lb friends launch in 2nd with more tire than that. Either jetting is too rich or if its spot on then an ignition , port timing or other issue could be the culprit. If you said you had a high output ricky stator I would suspect it possibly.

If you are gravity feed you just need to set the floats to shut off the gas when the float "floats". If you are running a pump then you may need a small seat. If you have billet bowls make sure the float doesnt rub or hang up on the side or edge of the bowl.

Plug caps or jetting. Plugs black as hell?

It is a super cool mod. I thought about doing mine but doubt I would for $300. If you guys would run duneables and balance the pressure on the springs so the sliders would clear each other you wouldnt go thru so many forks. If you dont balance the springs you dont have a duneable.

Adam , 150s could very well be just fine for jets in 33 or 35mm keihin pwks. Honestly you are lucky as heck to be from atoka. Go to the atoka drags some weekend for a test and tune and have someone help you. You can not jet a bike off the sudco site. It has to be ridden and usually someone knowledgeable can show you alot in 10 mins if you are willing to listen.

It would be easier probably to just trade em for gas carbs , but if you want to go back. The mods done to them for alky should have been Drillled dumptubes Drilled mainjets Alky specific needles or dumptubes may have been enough Pilots bigger Powerjets All of which on mikunis is reversible if you want.

Packard might have those as well. His prices on intakes and things have always been good. He recommended 44s on my motor but with the size of the stock size VF reeds I stuck with some carbs bored to 42.5mm instead.

Very little of that makes much sense honestly. Just sayin.