RadarRacing

About the only 4 mils that are going to get 120hp would be a 4 mil DM setup @ 540-554ccs. Thats basically a huge bore cub type cylinder. Most T-rexes are going to be in the 70s and 80s for HP. Ported by a great builder they can be just as good as a cub but you are still in the 110-115 hp range with probably a $2700 topend when you are done I am not sure how much a new t-rex runs. 120 hp is doable but probably very hard with a 421-427cc 4 mil. Just go bigger if you have to have 120hp.

The crossover really isnt needed but definately get rid of the tube. Other than that get either one you want based off looks or cost but the crossover doesnt matter one way or the other.

It probably wont get hot but if it gets up to over 130 degrees in a couple passes than you may need to watch your temps. 160 degrees would probably be where I would let it sit and cool for a bit. It really depends on how its built , timing , squish , compression and stuff. Some motors will rattle plugs out from detonation if they are ran warm at all. Others never get hot and can run fine warm with no problems.

Maybe someone told him NOT to use those domes on gas but the transfers shouldnt really be alky specific. If it is very peaky lowering the transfers makes them more peaky sometimes as it raises the blowdown quite a bit which is the difference between when the exhaust port opens and the transfers opens. I would do domes and check it and run it.

The idle screws being ALL THE WAY IN , as well as a stumble down low tells you that you are pretty rich down low. Go down on pilot and you may want to LEAN out your needle a notch NOT richen it up and your stumble will probably be a thing of the past. Go down on pilot and sync the caebs if you havent and you should have to turn the idle screws way out to get it to idle down.

Not FTW! It's F.T.G Baby. One reason goata dont get much love in the HQ community is because of the popularity of gerbils.

Ditch the extra plate or whatever your bud had you do. An ebc clutch should hold fine.

Yeah those plugs look rich as hell. Maybe its just using a sticky oil that makes yours black as hell. If it hickups and then cleans up it is probably rich. Search on here or look on atvdragracers in the 2 stroke section and ditch the switches , key , handlebar and all and use a tether switch. Thats what I would do. Yyou really only need about 2 feet of wiring to run.

Thats a normal coolhead , clean and replace the orings. Do not spray the rubber orings with any cleaner. Those pistons being that black look lean to me , if it has 120psi then just check it asap when you get the wiring fixed. Usually see whats called piston wash near the side/transfer ports. As far as wiring , if you want to just do away with the switch on the bars you can do a short drag type wiring harness and use a tether kill switch and if you want to keep the lights do the harness that keeps lights and use a toggle switch for the lights. Do a search and you will find it. You only need a couple wires to run it and those little extra plugs are the TORS plugs you can cut them off.

Imo , those plugs are just fairly new with not enough pulls on em and the jetting looks slightly rich to me in both color that it will eventually end up at as well as thickness of the ring. I think you are a little long on ride distance. Maybe just do 3 or 4 good hard accelerating pulls wound out into 5 th or 6 th and you will probably see a darker ring. You would like to see a beer bottle brown color.

I hate those tires they slide way too easy and are small as hell. A 20" is nowhere near as big as most 20s. I will never buy any of them again. I always use ether if I cant seat em. Spray it in the tire liberally and light , then kick the tire.

Probably yes if you already have your qir screws turned in , but if the motor was cool and it was cool out that would be fine to have to use the choke.

Prolly need to jet the main down but start over on the needle if you lean the main down a bunch.

Start right there and check it. Then you will probably be about right on needle, pilot and end up down 4 or 5 jet sizes from there , about a 150-155. I had CEL , 48 , 152s in my 350 with CPI inframes. It really depends on what filters and pipes too , as well as timing. I had pods and +5.

Cool. I didnt know that. That is an odd tire. Never seen any.

Homey you need to search under " plug chop" or just look at a couple threads. That pic is just idiotic. Looks like it has been idled on for hours. If it runs good to you dont worry about it , you dont ride WOT anyway.

BANNED OR PINK name forever! It was supposed to be a big secret , well there aint no secrets anymore. Juan said they were good and the dyno proved it.

Basically just get chrome , the nickel isnt full chrome, ceramic will look dull if you polish it, polished aluminum looks good but dulls. CHROME.

Dominator is not the brand or name of the tire. Those are skat trak paddles that skat trak used and built on a kenda dominator carcass. Theres a lot of skat trak dealers , Brandon at Wildcard Racing is a skat dealer and site sponsor on here. Then normal non buffed skat trak tires should be quite a bit less than $500. If yours say Dominator on the side they are just normal non buffed tires.

Its hard to beat $46 and it works fine for dragracers with a lockup or just the normal bike.

Probably stock 14/41 would be good.

I dont know about not being ported but usually a set of vforce reeds , having the carbs bored to just under 28mm and a set of Shearers or even CPI pipes helps a bunch over toomeys. I would think that would give you an extra few mph. Definately +4 on the timing. The reason your bike is faster uphill than downhill is possibly that either your jetting is slightly rich or due to the low 2 degrees of timing. One way or another the motor or pipe likes the heat from the extra load of going uphill.

They arent that bad when you have em right.

You have a drag transmission not a duneable. Sell it and get a duneable if you wanna ride it and not dragrace it. I told you how a normal override is ridden.

That os definately NOT a duneable. Duneables will have 3 springs. There needs to be a spring as stated between the case on the clutch side nearest the shift star. The spring you have appears like it is bigger/longer than the one that is usually there but maybe it is just the pic. It wouldnt be a duneable so make sure you pull the clutch in and roll to a stop, then downshift one gear at a time and just make sure to let the clutch out a little as you click into each gear so as to have the trans fully engage in each lower gear before you downshift into the next lower gear. Never do like we do on a stock bike and just sorta stomp the shifter down and downshift 3 or 4 gears without letting out the clutch a little to fully engage each gear.