RadarRacing

Many times you can hear detonation , the side with detination will get a little quieter and lose the real ring of the pipe ping and have a different sound that will sorta sound like sand is rattling in the pipe. A hot motor is more prone to detonation. Of you have a good running setup that likes a lot of timing you just may not be able to run it unless the motor is cooler. My old dome, pipe setup liked timing and I just never ran it very warm and kept it very rich.

Definately like slowerthan you said. Detonation and shows small specks of aluminum on it. Needs fixed ASAP. Either throw more fuel at it, lower timing ....10 degrees is a bunch for most setups. loosen squish , lower compression. This isnt the setup you had a post about that had 270 psi of cranking compression is it? I honestly dont crank the piss out of my plugs when I tighten em and they will luckily fall out if there is any detonation. I have spit a plug out and taken the head off and had NO pitting at all. It sorta protects me from my own stupidity. If you are running asphalt I wouldnt think you would want over 5 to 7 degrees timing.

Both about the same jetting, power etc. If you get the billet ones always take the rubber boots off and yamabond them on or use other sealant. When they get a year or two old the rubber can sometimes not seal as well as we would like. If you are going big carbs I have a very low hour almost new 38-40mm one piece I would make a deal on.

Good info and nice classy post Shakar. Didnt badmouth the guy cuz ultimately it may have never made it there and he as well as you may have gotten stiffed by someone else or it got lost???

Unless you are on alky you need to fix the 20-1 , run whatever oil you want at 32 or 40-1 and jet your bike correctly and stick to a that ratio. Im not being a smart alek but the reason it has unburned sticky oil on the electrode is pretty simple. Not enough heat to burn all the oil. Is your jetting off??? I dont know.

Yes , tire size is probably not whats wanted. A 22" 10 to 14 paddle would probably be a better choice depending on swingarm length and power , rider weight, sand type etc.

If you are interested in a drag raptor let me know. Its a buds, he will be there and it will be one of the faster ones. 839cc, mostly Titanium, aarms, spindles, swingarm etc. Its black with a +12 titanium swingarm. He has a few quick 4 strokes but I know he needs to sell one or two.

Toomey T5s and sparkys, pro circuits, fmfs, they are all good really and just get spark arrestors.

If the plugs look good and it runs good I wouldnt worry about it. It could be a small difference in electronics , a 1 degree difference in timing can make a difference as well as different intakes or reeds. It sounds like you have one thing different on yours over the others running 160s. Intakes, timing, coil spark , many things can cause it.

Having to hit the throttle to start when warm is usually because it is rich on the low circuit. You may need a smaller pilot as well as check the needle. I do half throttle chops but I like to keep it a little fatter on the needle than what your mainjet chop looks like. I would bet it is pretty fat with the cel needle in the middle especially if you have a midrange pipe.

Sounds about right but I bet you are slightly rich on the needle. Just remember to check the main again if you move a clip or two. If I had to guess its needle position.

Yamabond and retest it after reassembly. I wouldnt sweat it at all if it holds ok.

Nope. Dans drag triple port will be way off with a 4mm. That should be a good 350 tho. If you wqnna sell those cyls holler at me , I like that setup on a a stock stroke.

If you flat plate cc'ed out that dome and got 21ccs then that is not at all the right dome for a 4mm supercub. You would end up with much less than 21ccs trapped volume and thus you now have 18 or 20-1 compression regardless of what the squish and step is in the dome.

If its modded any you will see a couple hp over stock. Ported with a high rpm pipe, vforces, pod filters etc you may see like 4-6 hp over stock carbs. Those are the stock carbs on polaris 400s and I have used them a couple times on banshees with good results.

Kenda klaws work well. For dirt dragracing or grass you cant beat pro wedges. I never found razors to hook well on any banshee.

That is very close on jetting those for a banshee. Usually like 250-280s.

I dont even run that roller. Lube your chain up or see if the sprockets are worn and replace if needed. .

Rob probably thinks you are one of the people he owes money to. No way you will need 180s. You will probably end up about 145-155 depending on which needles you use. You will hopefully find the 160s seem a bit rich at 4400 and need to go down a few jets.

Still looking. Can trade 14 paddle extreme sls. Trying to find some before the HQ trip.

Hahahaha! At least we are talking about two pipes that cost about the same and have proven wins and not a debate on pro circuits or something else.

I know people that have the rdzs and they can make good power but I know they had to be right on the edge of lean to make their best power. I would vote small bore shearers all the way , even small bore inframes are one of the top performing pipes when compared to the other inframes or out of frames .

Looking for triple buff/sls only 11 or 12 paddle Rippers or something like a 14 extreme staggered. Thanks. Radar

GOOD seller too. Bought from him in the past.

Deadbeat rat sob if you ask me. "Pay yo bills B" pay for the house like YOU agreed to when you bought it and borrowed the money and PROMISED to pay it back. I am sorry but this line of thought is ridiculous. It is sad but yew maybe he needs to move in with friends or his parents house, or maybe a cheap crappy apartment or trailer. I HAVE been there in my life and lived in a chithole cuz I was poor. Get back on your feet and dont shoot people.