TIM LUTZ

I'd stick with the gear saver. Good stuff. Flush the O'Reilly crap out with some cheap ATF, drain and go back to gear saver. OR if you want the best feeling clutch ever and a couple more HP go with Amsoil Super shift racing ATF. A lot of pro 2 stroke moto cross teams ran this stuff before everythig went 4 stroke.

Klotz Super Techniplate 40:1 Running it for the past 33 years in everything. Saws, lawn boys, weed wackers, Banshee, RZ, H2, dirt bikes. Just can't get a better oil.

Was it done before or after the hone? If after, I'd run another pass with the hone and throw er together.

Also, if you don't have the float bowls on the correct carbs the choke will not work. There is a R and L bowl.

Oh hell no. Try a new seal with some Yamabond and see if it holds. Check your vent line. We want to ride this weekend not pull a motor and split the cases!!!

New one to me. Get a new seal, coat the outside with Yamahbond and tap er in with a large socket. Also check your case vent hose. It may be pluged.

Hope to see more Banshees out this year around Ripley, Evans, Cottageville, Foster ridge. I'm from Columbus Ohio and this is the only place I'll ride. It is true what they say, "Almost Heaven"

This is the kit I'm installing tonight for a long next weekend in WV. I have been told that this is an excellent holding clutch We shall see. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-DUNE-TRAIL-RIDING-HEAVY-DUTY-CLUTCH-KIT-/290674893767?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ad92e3c7

Looking for a billet basket with plate, bolts and cushions and a cool head with 20cc domes

It aint all motor guys. Check my cig for about as close to perfect trail setup as you can get.

Had one. 1974 Kawasaki H2 trip. Made 78 HP on the DynoJet with just pipes & filters.

A forged piston is allways going to be better than a cast piston. That said, keep in mind Wiseco's 2 stroke reputation over the last 40 years. I've used then in 2 supercharged BBC boat motors, A 700 HP SBC nitrous motor, my shee, a couple balsters and countless dirtbikes. You can't get better quality for any money.

While you are in there take a good look at the shift forks also.

I did a staggered port job on my jugs. +2mm exhaust wuth a mirror polish, +1.5mm main x, 1mm 2nd x, and .5mm boost. raised and lowered the intane and left an 8mm bridge. The bike rips with DMC 916 and OKO 30mm powerjets. I would say at least 70 hp.

Had the same deal. Wire that goes to the parling brake lever was grounded. Was like it has a 1500 rpm rev limiter. cut wire and wire nut or tape so it can't go to ground.

Gear saver is goot stuff but it gets thick when it gets cold. Lots of AMA D11 MX guys run the Amsoil. That's where I heard about it. If you try it you'll never go back.

Keep in mind that 90% of all transmission problems are from bent shift forks.

Can you post some pictures? Most of the time when you lean it out real bad the top ring will pinch on the exhaust side and cause the piston to rock so much it will usually bust the skirt.

AMSOIL Synthetic Super Shift Racing ATF is the the best stuff you can put in a 2 stroke wet clutch gear box PERIOD. Been using it for years. . Highest shear, will take more heat than anything. more power to the ground especially in cold weather and did I say best feeling clutch ever. My link

Is this parking brake and clutch thing tied into the CDI and act like a 2000 RPM rev limiter? I was thinking a cracked reed also but seems to be the same condition on each cylinder. I’ve been busy ordering parts for a 383 stroker SB Chevy build and haven’t even messed with it. Pretty cool to run Wiseco’s in your Shee AND your Chevy. I’ll get’er worked out this weekend and post back. Thanks all.

Running 30mm OKO powerjet carbs. This condition happened all of a sudden like flipping a switch.

Just thought I’d throw this out there. Bike isn’t even off the trailer yet. See mods in sig. Ran great all weekend then riding around before I put it on the trailer and started bogging right off idle. Idles fine but as soon as you give it any gas it bogs and will not rev at all at even at WOT. No popping or backfiring just sounds like a weed eater at WOT before it’s warmed up. Swapped plugs (looked really fat) and made sure carbs were getting gas then rolled her on the trailer. Motor is fresh with new crank seals. I’m thinking it has to be the CDI or Coil or a sheered crank key. What do you all think?

When I added dune porting and 30mm OKO carbs to my existing DMC piped it was like adding another cylinder. In a drag race most of the time the race is won in the first 60 feet. You can try an old street bike trick called tying the front end. Take one (or 2) of your tie downs and fish them from spindle to spindle going up over the highest part of the frame. Have someone stand on the front bumper while you strap er down. This points the nose into the ground and lets you launch a lot harder. Don't let your buddy on the 450 see you do this just roll up to the starting line and "gate em"

See my sig. This is about as good as it gets as far as setting a Shee up for serious trail riding. I ride the gas lines around Ripley WV. Tight trails with lots of ruts and rock faced hills as well as flat out open gravel and dirt roads. Run as small a rear sprocket and as tall a rear tire as you can. This will get you on par with the 450's. As far as motor mods go, I'm probably making at least 68 HP with a super wide power band and it seems to be enough to spank any 450 I've run across.

What thickness spacer plates are you all using on your stroker builds and what are you paying for a set? Thinking about cutting some on my CNC router and selling for a fair price.