TIM LUTZ

Any of you all trail ride with a lock up? After this last build (Aprox 70 HP) my clutches are slipping soon as I get on the pipes. I’ve had lockups in drag bikes before but we used air shifters. I like the way we use to “tune” the clutch with weights and weak springs so it would slip off the line. Is it going to be a bitch to shift at 10,000 RPMs? How hard will the clutch lever be to pull? P.S. PM me if you have a lock up cover for sale. It don't have to be a show piece.

Going to leave the bridge alone and just lay the outsides back to better match the port windows.

Putting my top end on tonight. See sig for mods. Only thing that has changed is .020 off the head and a nice dune/trail port job. 1.5mm up on the exhaust, 1mm on the transfers and 5mm on the intakes. Of cores the exhaust was polished, transfer base cleaned up and matched to the upper case and the intake opened up. Running fat at 280 mains before. Any guesses on jetting with this porting? I'll bet I'll need to start at 300 at least.

Oh, I thing there is a little more than that to be gained.

Just can't see why Wiseco would use a window that is .055" narrower than the stock piston. I've widened them a little before on dirt bike builds with no problems.

How much are you guys opening up the intake windows on the 513s? Would an 8mm brtdge be OK? What is a safe over all width on each window?

You know you can't really call it a bad port job if it can be cleaned up with a good port job. Just call it a un finished port job. No reason to toss your cylinders or anything.

That's just it. I've never had one come off that hard on any bike. Not rusted at all just a little stained.

Yea, pretty hard to tell just by looking. Put it in second gear with the cases split and see if the gear is going in all the way.

Sounds like a bent shift fork,

Looks like Jeffery over at Dahmer racing did the porting on them cylinders. Sorry, had to.

Hope you all don't think I hit the flywheel itself with a hammer. I just gave the center screw on the puller a couple shots. Magnets still seem strong, nothing sounds loose. That must be some glue them jap's use. I don't know of any adheasive that can take that much heat. I know I got the center section that hot cause I had the laser IR on it the whole time. I can see a little of the glue on the inside and picked around at it with a scribe and it seems solid.

I spent 2 hours last night removing my flywheel. 1 minutes with the impact, 4 minutes waiting on the compressor. 2 minutes with the impact, 4 minutes waiting on the compressor. Got out the hammer and gave er a couple whacks. The crank is junk anyway so I gave er a few more. Got the propane torch out and heated it up to 250 degrees. Ran out of propane. Went to Walmart got some propane. Heated it to 450 degrees and hit it with impact for 2 minutes and it popped. I had only slight rust stains on the taper surface and the Vito's 4 degree key looked fine. Only question is are the damn lights going to work now. You know what heat does to magnets.

First time I split my cases I did it bottoms up. Ran er a little low on trans oil flying across a frozen lake in 6 gear. The thing sounded like an old craftsman drill. Flipped it up side down on the bench and replaced the whole transmission without even taking the head off. Try doing that with YZ,CR,KX or RM. Remember this motor started life on the street and the cases split like a street bike. Just be as careful as you would doing the EZ way and you should be fine.

Nothing wrong with running aviation fuel in a Banshee at all if you have the compression to justify it. The 100LL (low lead thanks of course to the EPA) Is meant for turbo charged piston aircraft that need boost to fly at higher altitude but works fine in carbureted engines also. The purple 115 if you can find it is only used anymore in old restored war birds that run turbo charged V12 or supercharged 9,18 & 28 cylinder radial engines, AV fuel is made to a much higher standard and you will never get better filtered, dryer fuel than at an airport.

Has anyone run these pistons My link OK I already know Wiseco's are the beat and WSM's are a close second and that Nick's quote on this website is a little (lot) hard to believe. Just want to know one thing and one thing only, Has anyone used or know of anyone who has used these pistons. Thanks

Let me know what you got and how much. Need pretty quick my stocker has like 3/8" play in the cushions.

You think I'd be better off with The OKO 28's Oh, and on that .PDF file there are 2 pages. The first one is blank. Don't know how that happened.

PM me about the basket

OK I just decided to start reading this post and I can't believe no one has mentioned TEL. Tetra-ethyl lead is what was in most octane boosters back in the days and worked damn good until the FTC found out if you get it on your skin it will give you instant lead poisoning. As recent as 3 or 4 years ago there was still a brand of octane boost (can’t remember the brand) that still used TEL. Do a Google search maybe some better brands still use it. I know Shell, Sunoco, VP use it because it is the only way racing fuel is made, Unless of cores it’s unleaded race fuel. Here’s a question for you, Can you get E85 in your area? It’s about $2.20 a gallon in Columbus and it is 100 octane. of cores you will need to set your carbs up like alky carbs and you will get half the fuel mileage but did I mention $2,20 an gallon 100 octane? I’ve experimented with a 20% mix of E85 and 93 pump gas with great results you just have to go up 2-4 jet sizes with a 20% mix and be sure you are using Klots STP or beanol or an oil that will blend with ethanol.

OK Think I got er down to 50K. Open the ,PDF and use the zoom. Center, bottom center and bottom right, are some ¾” cast acrylic tool I cut on our CAD/CAM router at work. The doughnut with a 320 grit DA disc (center cut out) will give your base gaskets a nice new surface in 15 seconds. The adjustable depth hand piece jig works great for getting all your transfer and exhaust ports exactly the same height. Just have to be careful with the steep angle of the secondary’s and just go in a little with a flame or cone carbide of aprox. the same angle and hand blend the rest. Left center and top are my cylinders sitting on my light table, ¾” clear acrylic recessed in to the work surface (counter top) with a 150 watt metal halide below and egg crate between so I’m not looking directly at the bulb. Top right is a 150 watt fiber optic setup I threw together, Just shove the ends down your transfers and you’ll be porting with sun glasses. Thanks again fot the input. shop pics.pdf

Thans Mopar1rulas for running the numbers. I think I'll go ahead and rise the mains up another .5mm and the boost just a tad from stock. I just sent my head to Mull for a 93 pump gas cut. I'm running DMC 916 pipes and I sure hope I have the same super wide power band with the new port map and new OKO 30mm. Thanks all.

I just ordered this stuff today. My link Got the color guard stainless. Suppose to look like SS after you polish it out. Techline is good stuff and if you put it on right will never flake or rust.

This is the secondary port back wall I am talking about.

Was reading about staggering the port timing today (opening the main transfers first then the secondary’s and the boost port last. Go figure I just finished my porting last night. I went up 1.5mm on the exhaust and 1mm on the transfers (all) and left the boost at stock height. So my question is, If I took my mains up another .5mm would it give me any advantage (then the ports would be staggered) or would it just kill a little more bottom end (or would it make any difference at all) Also was wondering about the back wall of the secondary’s (closest to the boost port) There seems to be a sharp turn away from the boost port.. Should I widen this back wall and make it a more of a straight shot into the cylinder? It looks like it may be like this for a reason. Maybe to direct the flow clear of the boost port, You guys that port banshee cylinders should know what I’m talking about.