TIM LUTZ

Shorter swing arms for the Shee are really meant to be used with aftermarket A arms that put the front wheels 2 or 3 inches forward. The idea behind this setup is to get the Banshees geometry more like the geometry of a TRX250R and make it turn better. I run this setup and it does make a big difference. It's not a 250R but it's about as good as it gets for a Shee. If you just put a shorter arm on and take off for the hills you’re in for a coronary.

I have heard a lot about the small fuel passage on the 28 and 30 OKOs and was planning on drilling them out. Wonder if I should go ahead and machine some 1/4" bowl spacers.

Thanks for the info. Anyone else running the 30mm OKO or Keihin PWK30's Thanks

FYI If you look at the picture it looks like there are no rear fender graphics in these sets.

I have had mudsharks on the back and shreaders on the front of my Shee for 6 years and IMO it's THE best setup for the ruts and mud of West Vergina. And as a bonus when I take it to our house in Deltona Florida they do great in the loose sand.

Just ordered my OKO 30mm flat slide (PWK clones) and was wondering a good start point for jetting. I'm at about 1000 feet and run 93 pump gas and 40:1 Klotz thru a stock stroke Shee with DMC 916 exhaust. Cut airbox lid with a uni. Ported stock cages with dual stage reeds. +4 timing. The jugs have a nice dune/MX port job (+1.5mm on the polished exhaust and +1mm on the transfers & very open intakes) Running stock head but looking to get a cool head with 20cc domes. Any input would be great.

Well, I'm set as far as my bottom end goes. Just picked up a low hour 10 ball welded Hot Rod stock stroke for $200. Now I got a good excuse to match port my upper case.

Thanks Akheathen. What is the deal with the 4mm? I know I need a 4mm base plate but what does that do to my porting? As you know I raised my exhaust and transfers this weekend (couple pictures on that "boost port height" post) Will I now need to lower the port floors 4mm if I go with that setup? Thanks

I checked out Twister crank's website. Wow they got some nice stuff but DAMN, I pay less for a big block chevy stroker crank. HaHa. Is the Hot Rod stuff any good? Anyone got a low hour stocker?

Yea, the crank is within Yamaha service limits and looks fine but has a bunch of hours on it. That looks high for a rebuild. What dose a stock hot rod go for?

Thrashing my Shee for 8 years on Klotz and just now had to tear down the topend (hole in rad hose and ran her out of water) So I'm doing a mild build with new Wisecos, decent home port job and some 30mm OKO's. An honest 65HP motor when it's done. Any way, I was looking at the crank (still assembled) and I'm getting .019" and .023" on the rod sids and .065" and .070" small end arc. What do you guys think of these numbers? Skirts didn't break, didn't even seize just lost compression. Should I look for a tighter stock crank or a stock hot rod? Can't quite swing a 4mm at this time or I'd do it. Do these things give any warning (knocking) when they are ready to go?

WOW this thing works great. Got both exhaust ports and all my transfers exactly the same heights from deck. Using a flame carbide so I just went in a little on the rear transfers and the angle of the carbide tip matched the angle of the port roof, Just blend in the aluminum to the new port height. Also cut a donut from 3/4" cast acrylic and stuck a 320 DA disc on it and cut out the center. 20 seconds later I have a new base gasket surface. This porting stuff is kind of fun.

No worm holes this time. Want to see how it works with stock carbs first and then I'm going to try a set of OKO 30mm. Going to try to rout a tool tonight out of 3/4" clear plactic. A 2" wide x 4" long bar with a hole cut in it. I'll slot one side to the hole and cross bolt it. This will allow me to clamp my angle hand piece in this tool, set the depth, lay it on the deck and get all my transfers the same height..... I hope.

Are you talking about the rod big end bearing? Can't tell for sure from the pics but looks like they have gotten hot. Can't just replace you need to have the crank rebuilt. Should be able to pick up a good used stock crank for $100 - $150 on ebay or from someone on this forum.

Suspension on the banshee is money well spent. When you start making over 60 horse power the stock setup is just no fun at all to ride. They just din't turn well enough to miss that tree that comes up a lot faster with motor mods. A 1.5" shorter aftermarket 250r type swing arm and A arms that set the front wheel 2" foward and make the front end 4" wider with a 4" wider axle, good tires and at least aftermarket shocks up front will make SO much diffrence on the Shee.

Klotz Super techniplate at 40:1 Ran it for the past 30 years. IMO the best premix oil. Gear saver is great in the transmission but for the past 2 years I've been running Amsoil Super Shift Racing ATF. It's a synthetic SAE 10W and will put more power to the ground and give you the best feeling clutch ever. You guys that race Shees and use a lot of clutch, This is the only stuff you should be using. One thing you should never use with a wet clutch is synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1

Thought I'd start a new thread. Porting in progress and going well. Raising the transfers 1mm and the exhaust 1.5mm I have been reading a lot about staggering the opening of the transfer ports( mains open 1st, then secondary and boost last) This is suppose to widen the power band. So I was thinking about leaving the boost port at stock height and just cleaning it up. Any thoughts????

Hey all, Just wondering if anyone has found a miracle cleaner that you can just sprey on and hose off that will cut thru the mud right down to the paint/plastic.

Sorry for all the confusion. Corel is mostly a 2D CAD program and all I am doing with it is mapping my ports in the flat so I can play with shapes and heights. Then I export as a .EPS into a CAM program call Flexi sign. From there it's out to a 3 axis router or a plotter. I'll cut my new port template from 5mil plastic or velum and use that to scribe my cylinders. That way they both match exactly.

It's a CAD/CAM program. CAD/CAM stands for Computer Aided Design/Computer Aided Manufacturing.

Hey all. Just thought I'd check in. I'm actually ass deep in Corel right now digitizing my stock ports and playing around with the new port heights/shapes. Yea. I think I'll go with the WSM or Wiseco. I wonder if it's safe to cut that boost port in a new set of 513's or if I should even worry about it. Are the WSM pistons the same Athena pistons?

Looks like the dude is thrashing the piss out of his Shee in the video. My link

How about the large step between the cylinder base and the lower cases. I would think a gasket match would do good in this area for a couple extra HP. Also, Has anybody had any luck with the Atheana or the WSM (German) forged pistons with the 3rd boost port? Any real gains if I cut these ports in a set of Wisecos? How about M&H forged pistons?

Anyone had any luck with the OKO Flatslide Power Jet Carbs (PWK 28 colnes) You can get on Ebay for $64 each?