TIM LUTZ

But I need 1 for each side so if they give me 2 it's a deal. The plate, bolt and cushion kit is $40. I'm going to be getting a cool head so I'll proabbaly just order the Magnum at the same time. What do you all think of the Chariot head? I raised my exhaust ports 1.5 mm and with .020" off the stock head and a freah top end I'm only making 120 PSI compression so I'm guessing 19cc domes for 93 pump gas. Sound right?

You'll be grinding rivets if you install a magnum also.

Making about 75 HP on my MX/trail Shee. Do I need a billet basket or could I just put a new cushion/backing plate kit on my stocker? I exploded one on an RZ350 rolling out of the box but it had a slick, bar and nitrous.

Post a picture of the piston. Where the hole is can tell a lot. Is the piston dished at all? What plugs are you running? Could the plug on that side have come loose? Mt guess would be an intake air leak on that side, loose plug or too hot heat range on that plug.

For everyone that races, you already know this. For everyone else that doesn’t have arms shocks and axle upgrades, you just don't know what you’re missing. When I did mine I wanted to ride every day. Still do. If Yamaha put good parts on the Banshee like they do the YFZ450 they would still be selling them at $8000 each. Don't call me a trader but I've been looking for a YFZ roller that I can put my Shee motor on.

The lowers look a little like my Roll Design arms but I don't think Roll would use smashed tubing. The ball joint are almost for sure early Warrior replaceable ball joints. Ebay for $25 each.

The only way higher octane fuel is going to hurt HP is on a stock compression motor is if you don’t put more timing in to compensate for the slower burn rate. Race fuel does burn with more BTUs so your stocker will run a LITTLE better and the lead will make your rings and bearing last a LITTLE longer but IMO NO it’s not worth running on stock compression when you can make 80 HP on good pump fuel and a well tuned motor.

Wheel spacers and a new set of wheel bearings every year would be cheaper. If you race MX don’t think you’re going to get out of buying a good set of arms. This kit does not increase your suspension travel. IMO the best way to make a Banshee fast is to make it turn. (unless your dragging or dunning of course) Aftermarket wider control arms that move the front wheels forward 2 inches, a good round housing swing arm that is 1.5” shorter than stock, A good 4” wider axle, good shocks and tires will make you way faster on any MX track than a 4mm Cub.

Just curious, what plugs are you running? This looks like some BAD pre-ignition. Lean jetting will usually eat away at the piston top down to the first ring land on the exhaust side.

What plugs are you running? Very well could be a weak CDI or coil. At that cylinder pressure you may want to look into some better coils.

You got to gear for the track. Gole is not to have to shift.

how much for the case saver?

IMO The "hard anodizing' is more of a marketing thing. It adds no strength to an aluminum part at all. It's used mostly on commercial extrusion to add scratch, weather and abrasion resistance and only penetrates the aluminum a few thousands. An aftermarket basket is stronger because it's made out of a hot rolled or forged billet and already has a hardness much more than cast. It takes a long to groove a stock basket and I've never seen one grooved so bad I wouldn't use it in a stocker. After grenading one on an RZ350 I'm more concerned with the overall strength of the basket.

OK, Anyone run this basket?My link

I need a clutch kit that will hold 80 HP. I ride trail, MX and clime some wicked hills so I slide the clutch a lot. I'm done with barnett and EBC junk. I've heard of useing OE Yamaha friction plates from a YFZ1000 (6.97 each) and non dimpled steels and some good stiff springs. Anyone use this setup? I need a part number for non dimpled steels and a good set of springs (Barnett, EBC) I would think you should be able to build a killer clutch for under $100 Also check out this 8 plate basket on Ebay and let me know what you all think. Item number: 320591743636

I did find this on Ebay. Item number: 250662698274 Looks like discontinued Trinity part. Really wanted one with a clear cover. I can cut the adapter plate and the clear cover on a CNC router at work but it can't handle the 1" plate I would need for the spacer.

This question has been asked and I am going to ask again. Does anyone sell a Banshee lock up cover kit? What I need is just the cover parts without the OE cover. This would be the adaptor ring that welds or glues inside the stock cover after you machine it and the CNC spacer plate with clear lens. In other words a DIY kit.

Update, The used OKO 30s I bought off Ebay ($110) came with 150 mains, 50 pilots, powerjets & chrome slides. With reed spacers they clear the clutch arm just fine. Tip of the day on the airbox boots. Stretch over a 1 1/4" pvc pipe and toss in a pot of boiling water for 10 minutes. The jetting seems really close for my mods. I'm at 1 turn out on the air screws so may need to go to 52 pilots. Only loss in bottom end I can tell is right off idle and that is probably the pilots. They do flat out scream on the top end. So much I now need a lock up.

Ahhh. So you have a jockey. Lighten er up

Bump on the lights. I was riding at midnight a few weeks ago in WV and ran up on a Ranger RZR with some blinding blue ass looking lights. To be honest I couldn't run him down to ask him about them cause I couldn't see shit.

So what do you want for it as is?

I have a bit of experience on 4 stroke motors and did have juce on a RZ. It really depends on how much nitrous. First of all there are a few general rules that apply. Run the best gas you can find. Make sure your fuel system can supply the carbs and nitrous system with a consistent pressure under all conditions. On a car this means a return type regulator and huge fuel pump. What you want is to have the same pressure with the carb floats closed and the fuel solenoid closed as you do with the float valves and fuel solenoid wide open. How much pressure? That depends and is one of the ways you tune a nitrous system. You also want to tune and run at the same bottle pressure. You will need to go with larger domes and take some timing out. If I had to guess and this is just a guess I'd say go to 19cc domes and retard timing 4 -6 degrees from where you are now for any decent amount of nitrous. Nitrous is nothing to f@#$ with if you don’t have experience with it and unfortunately the only way to get the experience is to ruin some expensive parts. I know. See what happens when you blow a head gasket on a WOT nitrous pass. What you get is a nice little blow torch that will ruin a head and cylinder in 1 second. I'm not trying to talk you out of running nitrous cause when you do get it right its better than sex. Sorry about that blank post. Don't know what the hell happend with that.

What kind of track? If you weigh more than 200 pound your not going to like it unless your drag racing.

Think of the reeds as the intake valves on a 4 stroke. With a few changes in port design, they allow for a greater intake flow over a piston port intake design. A reed motor is simply an improvement on a piston port 2 stroke. Piston port 2 strokes are still used where higher RPMs are desired that are not possible with reed motors due to reed float and flutter (like valve float on a 4 stroke) The only mod you can do with the reed valve is to increase flow i.e. fiber reeds, port cages, V Force.