bbcmudtruck

I think Stellar's arms have a lifetime warranty on them and you will not find a better customer service, anywhere.

wtf? I am listening to you, I'm asking if they will last me very long or not. Your forks are trashed and you ride your bike 1/4 as much as I do. How much do they want for the extreme duneable?

I got my parts this morning. This guy is legitt and a good person to work with. Parts were as described. Thanks Ray!

I know this subject has been covered several hundred times. I want to hear from people who went against the grain and intstalled an override on a race/trial bike. Will the forks last at least a season? I wouldn't have a problem if I had to change the shift forks out every season. I horseshoe race every saturday and trail ride on sundays. Next question is who should I buy one from? Or are there any other options? I have already done the shift shaft and star mod and my grabber is installed on the star correctly. I'm running a streetbike clutch from fast and from what I can tell it seems to be holding up.

Sweet

I agree with ya 100%

Sent you a pm for a head unit.

I get about 2.5 hours out of a tank. On the last dune trip I went through 15gal. and my buddy went through 4gal. on his LTR450.

Try running 27.5 pilots with the air screws 1.5 turns out. Try screwing them in .5 turns at a time, let the motor ajdust to the change and try again.

Theres no way in hell all that stuff cost you $1k! All that stuff would be around $1500. Thats minus taxes and shipping.

Yep. Go ahead and save yourself the trouble and buy some sort of an override. I have a FAST 4mil dune port with 35s and Rockets. I'm making enough power now that it doesn't like to shift under load. I'm going to tear it back apart this winter and put in a duneable 1-4 with manual 5 and 6. '

This has been the worst season yet. Big country sucks, Kimbo sucks even worse.

You may be out of adjustment on the eccentric screw. The spring can wear out and your grabber won't be grabbing the star correctly. Jeff has new springs for $6 bucks if thats the case.

Take both plugs out when you do it. You may have just got a little tired and stopped a little before the guage did. Also, pin the throttle wide open.

What kind of axle, is it straight, pics and how much.

Thanks for posting pics Mike! This topic comes up quite a bit and nobody ever has any pictures.

I'm running a dune ported 4mil. I switched from T5s to old Rockets an picked up power EVERYWHERE! I have never ran cpis or sheares, however I'm not dissapointed in the Rockets what so ever. Rockets=

WoW! Great post! I've alwasy wanted to see something like this.

Bump up your compression be either shaving your stock head or buying a cool head and using smaller domes. Cool head looks good as well. Next would be to get a timing plate. They are less than $50 bucks and easy to put on. You will have to buy a flywheel puller ($15), but you should go ahead and buy one any way. Reeds will give you a little more throttle response, but I wouldn't spend a ton on them. I have been running the same boysen carbon fiber reeds for over three years now.

Looks like your swing arm is stock. The only things I could tell was your front bumper, nerfs and pipes. The pipes are old school FMF's and your nerfs are AC Pro-pegs with heel guards. I think the front bumper is a DG.

I used Maxima chain wax three times and then gave the rest of the can to the nieghbor kid. That stuff flings and makes a terrible mess. I have been usuing BG chain lube lately and it is the shit!

A cheap and easy way to lower your bike would be to use R6 shocks all the way around. I use an R6 in the rear and it works great. Ebay usually has them for very cheap. There is a guy on here that I race with (Rubeat), he put an R6 on the rear and two on the front. His bike seems to be working very well. I'll see if I can get ahold of him and have him post a picture.

It will be much easier to pull the bottom from the top. The crank will stay with the topend/case. Just turn it upside down and pull the bottom off! If something falls off or out, put it back in! Like said above, it can be tricky sometimes to get your forks to line up when doing it this way, just take your time and you will be fine. Do you have a repair manual?

Everything should stay in place. However if one of the gear sets decides to stick, just pull it out and set it back into place. Also, make sure you put the crank seals in facing the right way!

They will bolt right up. They will get you by until your ready to buy new front shocks that are built for you and your riding style.