bbcmudtruck

^^^^^Thats what I was thinkin! hahaha Why don't you strip it down over the winter and powder/chrome everything and make you a killer looking back up bike!

This is just retarded. You can't detune your carbs by jetting them wrong on purpose. You can and will smoke your motor! Call and talk to FASTOYS "Jeff", he will get you going in the right direction.

Money sent for front arms!

Who is running the longest shock on banshee +2 arms with yfz spindles, hubs and brakes?

Its been a month. He has had plenty of time to do the right thing. File the claim before its to late!

Do how does it attach to the stock pump shaft?

Shane will cost $50 for rebuild, $50 for new part and $115 for a new spring. I had him put in Racetech Gold series valving and that cost me an additional $165.

It costs $300 to powder a frame here.

Money sent for swingarm and carrier!

Here ya go.

More like a 30pk rack, that thing is HUGE!

Post up some pics

Sounds like that will only make your springs heavier. Heavy duty springs alone should provide the same results. First time I've heard of it though.

What is your paypal? I want that swingarm and carrier!

You may need to revalve your shock also. Email this guy:--> [email protected] His name is Shane, he can hook you up with the correct spring and revalve your shock if need be.

Check to make sure there is a little black rubber hose connected between the carbs. It is called the choke tube.

An R6 shock is used for flat track racing. It will lower your bike about three inches in the rear. You won't be able to trail ride your bike anymore with an R6 either. This is how low your rear end will sit with an R6 in the rear.

I'll take that carrier and swing arm. I pmd you back.

NitroTate made a "how to" dvd. Pm him or look throught the for sale section, he posted them for sale in there a while ago. Also, you should replace the top case as well to keep a matching set.

Good lookin out! I'm going to send them my spare drum tomorrow. Here is the website: http://www.w-c-r.com/PRICING.htm

If you have a grinder and a dremel, you can mod your own shaft and star. If your going to weld a stock crank, first make sure your rod bearings are nice and tight. No sense in welding a crank that is close to worn out. About your stator, are you saying that you just got rid of the plugs and spliced them together? If thats the case, it should work ok, but when you need to take the motor out of the bike, you will have to cut them again. You could get some male and female connectors (good ones), and put them on instead.

Your going to get a ton of different answers here. There are many different ways people like to do it. What works for me is letting the bike warm up and taking it out and lightly running it up through the gears and letting the motor slow you down. Example: Start out in first and run it up into the rpms, but only for few seconds. Then let off the throttle and let the motor slow you down. Start back in first and run it into second then let the motor slow you down. Repeat till you get to 6th and then let it cool off for awhile and repeat. I don't run it very hard during this process, only enough to get it into some higher rpms.

Sounds electrical, however have you had a tempature change? We went from 70 degrees to 50 in one day. You may need to bump the main.