RZBansheeMan

I'm assuming that with the TORS caps on that your turning the air screws and not idle screws. Chances are, most likely you don't have idle screws on the side of your carbs. I do believe that the idle adjustment is on top of the TORS (a big headed screw the size of a dime maybe).

Just for comparison to all three stock banshee shocks. This may sound a little silly, but if the shaft diameter, shock body and spring diameter are sufficient enough, I think with some revalving, maybe a spring swap, that one could possibly be used for the rear of the Banhee. I would have to come up with an Elka link, or possibly make one, and the upper mount might need to be moved just a little, but it might be possible.

My understanding of it is "stock cylinders, stock porting, stock reed cage" with only the addition of "toomey pipes, boysen reed petals, dynojet needle" They're probably right you wouldn't need anything more than stock carbs. As for the 50% increase in power on an RZ enigne with just those few mods I highly doubt it, that would be almost a 90 - 95 hp bike with stock carbs, very unlikely.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-RZ35...1QQcmdZViewItem

If you have stock cylinders and crank on it now, with no porting, You will most likely end up doubling your power and still be very reliable. :biggrin: The only problem I might see is, if Jeff is backed up for 3 months (it was mentioned so in a different post) you might not be able to have them done for your friends visit in November. Also you might be better shipping this stuff thru USPS rather than having your friend try to take it thru the Air port and him trying to explain what all these "weird metal objects are" to security.

I thought you just recently purchased a YFZ 450 a-arm setup from 2003LimitedBanshee, if you did those are supposed to be a +2.25 +1. As for the ride height concerns with that setup all they really need is the lower shock mount moved in maybe an inch.

Do not use the stroker plate or the thick gasket ! Get the 4mm "hot rods" long rod crank, and get the "795" pistons. Have your cylinders ported for the additional stroke and new engine displacement, and then get some stroker domes for your cool head. This is the proper way do a 4 mm stroker.

Scroll down to the "to stroke or stock" topic and read thru all that !

WOW, that really kicks ass, but they didn't say how many miles were on it when they started to run the E-85, and they didn't say how well it was running when torn down, unless I just didn't here it correctly. I am not quite sure as to why they would show the oil pump gears or the cam lobes on a "roller" cam (with proper lubrication they shouldn't show any sign of significant wear), or any of the crank journals / main bearings, mainly because these are not parts of the fueling system or combustion area. Although this is very interesting, if I had my Banshee up and running with a stock engine, I would run it just to see what may or may not happen, I would miss the smell of AV-Gas though. Maybe get some of those fuity pills to drop in the tank :biggrin: On another note, couldn't the Dial-A-Jet be used in an aplication such as this ? Mike

I would show more interest in running E-85 if you didn't need to purge afterwards, that's just one more thing to have to piss with doing.

What bore do you happen to be on now ? Wiseco's chart shows their stock rod pistons going in increments of .025" of an inch up to 66 mm .050" and their "795" pistons increments of .050 mm up to 66 mm. They don't measure to the hundredths, but .050 mm ~ .020", so if you go with the 795 you will need to go the next size over that you are on right now, *Unless you are on stock bore*. Mike

Does anybody happen to know the diameter of the shock shaft and the spring on the YFZ 450 front shocks ?

Well, maybe it was just more of a misunderstanding than anything else. seems like we are on the same page as for the brake line discussion. As for decreased braking distances, I believe there are lots of variables, from increased rotor size, multiple piston calipers, ceramic pads, suspension set up, tire design, surface conditions.

That's some funny ass Inspector Gadget shit there.......... :yelrotflmao:

This is getting pretty darn silly. The stainless braided lines don't resist flexing, they are supposed to be flexible, what they do is resist swelling. When you have swelling you will have a pressure drop, plain and simple. I cannot beleive that you don't understand that with rubber lines that swell, the braking effectivness goes down. In hydraulics the fluid is always going to take the easiest path, it is much easier for the rubber line to swell than it is for the fluid to be forced thru the steel caliper and brake piston. I have experienced with rubber lines, the front brake lever having to be pulled in very far with a mushy feel, rather than with stainless braided lines the lever not having to be pulled as far and having firmer feel to it and improving the brake effectiveness. I don't know what kind of racing experience you have, but take a look at all the nascars, indy cars, super bikes, funny cars or whatever kind of big drag cars and see what they have to say about rubber vs stainlees brake lines. Hell, check to see how many of them are running rubber lines. How do you figure the brake line is like a switch, the brake levers themselves are the switch, more so a variable switch, and you think you are so experienced with braking systems and you mention that you've done them 3 times, WOA

When I mentioned having the bottom end done I was refering to the shop splitting the cases and installing the new crank and seals, I wasn't sure if you were going to do that yourself or not, No prblem on the input. I am not the most knowledgeable guy on these things, but I do try and share the information that was shared with me and or share any of my experience with others. :beer: Mike

Most likely you have your carbs out of sync now. I would recommend getting the TORS removal kit and putting actual idle adjustment screws on the carbs.

What screws exactly did you turn on the tops of the carbs and do you still have the TORS on there ?

Call Jeff @ F.A.S.T. racing, When going to a 4mm stroker You need to have stroker porting done to your cylinder or you could end up having an engine running worse than your present set up. The domes need to be turned on the squish band side (the side that faces the piston). On a two stroke engine as simple as it is, there are fewer parts (obviously), yet that have more working responsiblities. The cylinder serves for both the combustion and the ports are like a cam in a 4 cycle. The piston is serves as delivering the power and acting like the valves in a 4 cycle. So throwing in a longer stroke crank throws all the timing off in the 2 cycle, it would be similar to mis aligning the timing set on a 4 cycle engine, causing poor performance. The 4 cycle has separate components for all these job duties. You can probably purchase domes that are already cut for a 4mm stroker. You also could probably have them do your bottom end, but send the jugs out for 4mm porting and get the proper domes and then have them assemble it. Mike

I see, now. Thanks.

Don't these E-85 fueled vehicles have aluminum heads for the most part ?, and I'm quite sure that there are some plastic parts in the in-tank fuel pumps

If your asking what a "purple headed yogurt slinger" is, then go watch the movie "Varsity Blues" you will figure it out............. :thumbsup:

You still have to have the domes cut, the 795 pistons were designed for stock stroke with the 115mm long rods. Once upon a time the long rod setup utilized rods from a Yamaha RD 400 bike engine and using the blaster pistons for the 5mm higher pin height, the problem with running blaster pistons was having to bore the cylinders all the way out to fit them, and having to rachamber the head to match the dome of the piston. This was such a popular mod that wiseco made the 795's with the stock dome and starting at std. Banshee bore. They are used on the 4mm long rod stroker (on a 4mm stroker the crank pin is offset by 2mm resulting in the piston traveling 2mm higher in the cylinder and 2mm lower) , but the piston crown will stick out the top of the cylinder 2mm, therefore the domes need to be recessed accordingly.

:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: Banshee's ROCK !!!

Hey wesw, I've yet to get all my parts back from Jim, due to lack of funds, but what should I expect from his 12 port 4mm RZ set up ? If a person were to convert their Gas / AV-Gas Banshee to E-85 would you have to flush the fuel system, carbs and engine with gas & oil pre-mix afterwards like you would on an Alky set up ?