RZBansheeMan

I have a set of "06" stock jugs, head, stock intakes with boyesen reeds, stock carbs. The cylinders are 64.75 and are in really excellent shape, intake bridges and transfer dividers are knife edged and the exhaust ports have been pollished. These look like new. Let me know if interested, Mike.

Lookin damn good ! Maybe you could make it into a kit and sell to compliment "2003limitedbanshee's" YFZ 450 front end kit.........

V-Force 3's ProDesign filter adapter with K&N and outer wear Remove airbox lid Cool head (Noss) Rejet accordingly New rear tires so they hook a lil better than stock If you do all this you shouldn't be dissappointed, until you get used to it. If all that isn't enough, then there is stroker cranks, porting, and bigger and way better carbs. Hope this helps :beer: Mike

Assuming that all the sleeves on the TDR site are for stock cylinders, would there even be enough port volume on the intake side, without doing a big reed conversion to feed this monster ? Also what about the volume of the transfers ? I am assuming that all this is quite possible with a 72mm bore and a 64 mm stroke but also seems like it would be extremely expensive when the cubs are as plentiful as they are, unless somebody like myself, likes to try and keep a sleeper look. I wonder if it would be possible to have a set of copycat viper sleeves made in to these big sleeves that TDR has ? Any thoughts ? Mike

A 4mil long rod would be an excellent choice, but you probably would get your best answer from some of the reputable engine builders ( there are several out there ) when or if you go for the porting.

Yeah, if you want to upgrade to a 370, leave the bores as small as possible. Get a 4mm stroker crank and get it ported for the stroker, this should put you in the 370 range.

Yes, it is an old street bike starting from 1983. It's what the Banshee engine was basically taken from yet, in a very detuned state. I think the Banshee's stock ( factory ) power rating was only in the 40's and the U.S. model RZ's were in the high 50's, some of the European model RZ's were in the low 60's. So you can see where th banshee was really short changed. The RZ's had better porting than Banshee's and they power valves which is a very big plus. Yamaha was way ahead of they're time with having them electronically operated ( just for instance, the new CR 250's are too ). Check this site out for some RZ info. www.RD350LC.net

I envy you for that AWESOME shee you have there Broke. That looks like a kick ass frame :thumbsup: What all is done to your motor ?

You have got the good cylinders :thumbsup: , the 1UA's were rated at 63HP. The RZ stator has several more wires than the banshee, if remember correctly, it should have 11 total wires coming from it including the ground and the neutral indicator wire, and there should be 17 poles on it. Mike

You are off. The port timings need to be opened top and bottom for any stroker. The cylinders should be sent to a professional for this because they should also be ported for the added displacement of the stroker. The 4mil doesn't require case trenching or a spacer plate, only porting, long rod stroker crank, "795" pistons, stroker domes. The 7mil requires case trenching, cylinder spacer plate, crank, porting, I think "795" pistons also.

FUPA's are so sexy http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?...FUPA&page=1 Another turn off would be chicks with Happy Trails

As for the programmable ignition, Check out http://www.zeeltronic.com/page/home.php. The nice thing about these components is that you replace the original cdi box, which the original RZ cdi boxes are getting aliitle more scarce and the most desireable ones are the 52y-50. From what I understand the older 29k-50 cdi's were more failure prone. The Zeeltronic unit comes with 3 or 4 pre programmed ignition curves already but to get the most out of it you would most likely need a dyno, one of the greatest thongs from zeeltronics is the programmable powervalve controller, you could adjust the valves to open at different rpm's than stock and the duration could be shortened or lengthened compared to stock also. In the case you use original equipment, I think that I had read somewhere, that the voltage regulator/rectifier can be used from a yamaha FZ model bike, but I could be wrong. I also had learned that both, the the EXUP valve servo and controller, can be used from the Yamaha R1 exhaust to control the power valves on the RZ. I also have wiring diagrams, if anybody needs them, give me a holler. Mike

Word........I have diesel fuel in my parts washer tank and it works awesome, if that doesn't work, a friend of mine has a auto detail business and has some industrial strenght degreaser that works well for me.

I would think that it would turn hard maybe, but it should, in neutral and or with the clutch pulled in. "IF" it's only a crank or topend seizure. It is usually not very easy to push any atv or mx bike, that's not running, in gear with clutch pulled because of the oil in the clutch side sticking the plates together or notching of the basket. Ultimately it's going to have to be torn down. I would start with the flywheel and then the clutch just because they're the easiest to eliminate.

That's NO SHIT. This state sucks ass !

Thanks for the up date, keep them coming ! :thumbsup:

I was thinking that the bees wax would seal the blasted area so the moisture couldn't get in to it, but wasn't for sure on how messy it would be. Hope you find something that works well for ya. :beer: Mike

I am not sure how important it is to keep some of these parts super clean, but try melting some bees wax on to the splines.

If it were me and the funds were available,I would go with the Barnett that's only because they are well known and clutch baskets in general take a lot of abuse. That's just my opinion. I am one of those people that generally run the stock stuff until it fails then replace with better for future preventaive failures. Mike

Maybe some times I shouldn't respond to stories such as these " urban legends ", but I guess sometimes I believe too much. Although I think it was about 4 years ago now in a little town north of where I live, a little toddler boy suffocated himself in the shoulder seat belt ( I think it was used to hold his booster seat in if I remember correctly ) while his parents were taking groceries into the house. If I remember correctly the toddler was sleeping when they arrived at the house and so the parents proceded to take the groceries in and when they returned to the vehicle they discovered that he had woken up and tried to get himself out, somehow getting the belt arround his neck and ultimately dying. This story is very true and very, very sad. I have 2 litlle boys one is 4 1/2 yrs and the other is 2 yrs that I keep a very close eye on to make sure they are safe. Mike

Man, that is Fucked Up :verymad: ...........What the hell is this world coming to ????

Another thing I forgot to put on the " Off " list is chicks with happy trails or big bushy snatch's

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that was one in the same; Front Butt - Bunt - Fupa :yelrotflmao:

I bought one of these kits for my Shee. I think you can order individual bolts from them also if you didn't want the whole kit. http://alloyboltz.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=193_212 Hope this helps Mike

Hey there Turbo, any more progress yet ? Mike