RZBansheeMan

Yeeeeeeeeeeeee Hawwwwwwwwwwwww...................Hang on to that !!!! As for the 140 hp......whoopy dooo............ Get creative and fuel inject a 400cc cheetah PV motor.......I'm willing to bet a 115 plus hp depending on pipe and porting with less weight and be more fun !!!

Call Jeff at FAST........ he will give you damn good advice !!!, don't do cubs unless you are a drag racer (300 ft distances or 100 yds - whatever you want to call it) the cubs are not trail friendly unless you like aiming at trees and hitting them at 80 + mph...........most likely a "dune" / "play" port will satisfy your needs. Power wise your looking at doubling your stock power with a dune port, 4 mm stroker, V-Force 3 reeds, 33 mm PWK carbs and T-5 pipes........ think about it, 36 hp to a solid 75 hp ..........it will give you a "hard on" the size of the Eiffel Tower, and make the 4 strokers be envious, especially if you use the stock head (with custom dome cutting) and tell them you have a stock Banshee with only pipes, reeds and carbs..........

You almost have to treat the expansion chamber as part of the exhaust port in a fuel injected type scenario using 02 sensors. Treating the stinger tube as a "header" tube rather than a tail pipe, therefore mounting the 02 in the stinger tube either midway or towards the silencer........just my $ .99 worth...... :geek:

What do ya's think of trying to build a ass kickin' torque monster 7 mil RZ engine ?

J/K !!! Why....... :yes: YES you should, they both ought to be worth one RZ powered Banshee :biggrin: ................. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :beer:

It would also be stellar if you could link (if it applies to the ones who do a lot of E-gay-ing) the Egay seller / buyer feedbacks also.

I've seen what they look like from the outside but was kinda curious as how they functioned, for the most part it looks as if higher exhaust pressure pushes them open. Correct me if I'm wrong, but are they adjustable via. setting the spring tension high or low with a center screw ? To me the Electronically operated PVs would be more accurate being digitally controlled, as long as everything is up to par and and properly adjusted. I'm still more in favor of OEM cylinders.

How about I sell you some pics of it.........LOL I would consider it but........The 1UA's are not very common here in the states, mine are stock port, stock head, powervalves are in extremely excellent condition (something to be watched out for on neglected RZs) and it's on just the first over bore. I might consider it though, they are just sitting idle here next to me...... Might have to draw up a contract........."IF" I sold you that spare RZ topend..............You send that Honda down the road for nothing but another Banshee and Banshee only........J/K.... :biggrin:

Hey guys, if we can get together with some of the people that have dealt with him, I'm sure we can locate this "Nagger" and maybe some scores can get settled.

I think this is a great idea !! :thumbsup:

Shit, sorry about that, I will be making some eventually. Right now my efforts are on a Honda TRX / CR 500 conversion. How soon are you gonna be needing these flanges ? I could try to make some up real soon.

Hey "Snop" I am not real sure on how the aftermarket PVs work (other than exhaust pressure), I think they are a gate valve setup maybe, vs. a "RZ" setup uses a barell valve. Kinda funny how Honda started using this setup almost 20 years later after Yamaha pioneered it .... Honda One thing I would like to do, if I had the money, maybe we could put together a plan sometime, but build a 7 mil RZ engine with a 2:1 intake, and build it for the ultimate Woods, XC, MX, SX, engine just to see the outcome. I do have a real nice spare RZ topend (1UA) set that was factory rated @ 63hp :woot: Check this out "sredish"......http://www.zeeltronic.com/page/home.php

I'l stick to a synthetic Type-F for my Banshee tranny, Almost all domestic light duty "aluminum" manual transmissions 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive along with transfer cases run ATF in them. Yes ATF is a hydraulic fluid but it is widely used, it is for "wet" clutches in an automatic, and obviously the Banshee clutch is a "wet" clutch also. I think it is very excellent tranny fluid to use in the Banshee.

I have the diagrams if you ever need them. One thing that is really awesome is there is a guy that builds a programmable ignition controller for the "RZ" and he also builds a programmable powervalve controller, which in my opinon, would be the cats ass for dialing them in with the power curve of the pipe. From what I understand you can even close the valves further than stock.

Hey there "sredish", My project is still in the making but I chose to go with the 4 mil RZ setup ported by Passion. I'm kinda stoked about getting it going, according to Jim, I'm gonna have the best of both worlds, gobs of torque and some stellar topend. He told me, because I'm gonna run the Rockets, that they are gonna hold me back on topend vs. the Shearers. I don't really care about that though, I'm not a dragger either, I just like the looks of the Rockets and they clear the pv assembly.

Well, if "2003LimitedBanshee" sent him those aluminum spacers, maybe there will be an address to be obtained

Here it is.

Is this jackass a member here ? If so, it shouldn't be too hard to locate him.

Sounds like a well rounded setup, if you don't have the cool head already, I would go with the Noss head. It is a 1 piece design and doesn't require longer studs like the PD, but it uses the same domes and O-rings. It's cheaper also. As for the clutch, I would get the billet basket and FAST clutch kit, maybe with 3 heavy springs, if for some reason it doesn't hold up, you can always upgrade to a lock up later.

Welcome aboard the HQ Ken ! It seems to me that alot of Yamahas have a "notchy" shift to them (usually between 1st & 2nd) , the RZ shift forks and shift cam are superior to the Banshee, due to the fact the forks have roller bearings on the guide pins and the channels in the drum are cut a little softer. The addition of the RZ shift forks & drum along with the modded shift star will really make a noticeable difference to the shifting manners.

The only graph I found shows this for the factory timing curve. 500 rpm - 1,600 rpm = 17* from 1,600 rpm - 2,300 rpm it advances 5* 2,300 rpm - 4,000 rpm = 23* from 4,000 rpm - 10,000 rpm it retards to 10* Hope this is accurate and helps. Mike

The only graph I found shows this for the factory timing curve. 500 rpm - 1,600 rpm = 17* from 1,600 rpm - 2,300 rpm it advances 5* 2,300 rpm - 4,000 rpm = 23* from 4,000 rpm - 10,000 rpm it retards to 10* Hope this is accurate and helps. Mike

What about that crazy ported RZ set up you just installed ??? :geek:

What all did you do for putting your stroker in ? Did you use the stroker plate, or did you get the correct porting and stroker domes ?