RZBansheeMan

Mine is a pickup that I did up when I was in high school, 4" over 33's will work fine but I abuse my stuff a lil bit, therfore my tires would hit. I ran the dual stabilzer but I don't think it really did shit when your running 35's, so I took it back off. Those old square body chevy's ride stiff when you get any lift in them, and it seems they just kinda have a bounciness to them and kinda wander a lil, just my experience. Here is a pic of it after I had re did it in 1997 At the time I had some 35 x 14.5 x 15 Super Swamper Boggers under it with just a 6" skyjacker lift and the fronts would hit. That truck since then has had in order 2 different 350's, a 400, another 350, and back to a stock 400. A different set of 1/2 ton axles, a 3/4 ton set of axles, and now the final set of 1/2 ton axles. 3 different 700r4 trannies, 1 TH 350 tranny, now it has none......... The truck just sits it my Dads barn with no box, no tranny or transfer case and is not running :sad: It now has 7" of total lift with some 35 x 12.5 x 15 wild coutry tires on it, I took the facctory Rallye wheels and had them cut on a big lathe actually 8 rims in total, and re welded the two deep halves together to make them 15 x 12 rims, that helped give the tires some bulk, the next set I do will be 15 x 14.

We understand which lines they are, are the carbs stockers ? If so there is a small screw on the bottom of them like what "Dajo" was talking about that is for draining the carbs and if that or they are loose gas will come out the long lines that dangle down behind the engine.

Very true, I forgot about that, My PWK's don't have that screw.

My guess would be a float is not closing properly and the gas is running out one or both vent lines.

I would have the head shaved a few .000" get some V-Force 3's bump your timing +4, Pro-design or equivelent filter adapter with K&N and outer wear, remove your air box lid, of course jetting accordingly, and either the T-5's , Fatty's, or Aliens. You will stomp him, then he will go upgrade to beat you and then you will want porting to beat him and so on...... The T-6's were designed for stock port timing engines, I would just get a better pipe to begin with..

Get some of those ultra cool looking "Wooly Buggers".... :cool:

I like the steakthy look......Have your stock head O-ringed and have the domes cut out of it so you can put interchangable ones in.... I have seen them on E-Gay...

Go with "SkyJacker", I have that in my 85, if your gonna run 35's you will need at least 6" lift, your front tires will rub on the corner of your fenders when turning if not...I actually ran 6" over my 33's and added another 1" for my 35's, but they also have good shocks and steering stabilizers.

Those "R" cases are notorious for breaking from a popped chain. If you can find a decent one that hasn't been chunked up, get a case saver. I also wouldn't give any more than 500 for it, If it is an "86" those are the strongest, most desireable frames.

Well, what do you think, should I pass on the idea ? Just trying to come up with some alternatives to some of these aftermarket pieces that are way too expensive.

When I upload, I use the 1024 x 768 and I leave it at that for posting also. I use photobucket though.

Did you down size it in photobucket or image shack ?

How about some "Suicide Messiah" or "Fire it Up" from Black Label Society ?

Is that at Silver Lake ?

The piston on the "stock" rear Banshee shock ?

I went to the local dealer and measured a 450 front shock, all but shaft diameter. The shock body is the same diameter, if not real close, and so is the spring I.D. and O.D. If I'm not mistaken, I think the bolts are the same diameter also. The Elka link requires their 367mm lenght shock, which comes to 14.4 inches. I do realize that the 450 front shocks are ~ 15.75 inches long, but I think the upper mount could be modded easily enough. I am convinced one of these could be used on the rear of a Banshee along with a copied Elka link.

I could be wrong here, but I think that is more critical on engines that split from side to side, because the machinig of the bearing and shaft bosses could be off significantly. I think with the Banshee / RZ cases, one could put them together hollow and torque them down, then check your crank bearing, clutch bearing bores, and everything else that applies with a snap guage and check for roundness that way. I am willing to bet that it will be O.K.....

Glad to hear that you are stomping your mates quads :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

Yes it will, you will need to put the plugs in the top of the case at the back (top - center). You will aslo need to use the banshee clutch cover to eliminate the oil pump. Mike

Probably half as much as a good used rear fender

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

LOL........Hey sredish, I think a 7 mil RZ would be just an animal, and I would be willing to bet that you would have alot of people wanting to know WTF just handed their asses to them, especially Hondas. :biggrin:

I got 20.00, that says, those guys will say "Damn that thing is fast"

You will need 4 mm stroker porting to get your port timing to match your lower and higher stroke values, and to accomodate your new displacement's breathing needs. No if's, and's, or but's............... Get rid of the mikuni's, get some 33 PWK's or PWK air strykers, get some wiseco "795" pistons and a 4 mm long rod crank, also get stroker domes for the cool head. Get rid of the timing key, and get an adjustable timing plate (the offset keys have a higher shear factor) As for the FMF's, I'm not for sure about them. The T-5's are very well renound.

bumpity bump bump, naggers !!!