RZBansheeMan

FO SHIZZLE !

Just fix it the right way the first time. If you have to pull the engine out to get all your stripped cover screws out, that's what I would do and get new ones along with a new gasket and O-ring. You don't want that shit getting chewed up in your clutch cover - going thru your clutch - or getting into any bearings. Hell even try using a flashlight and make a little wire hook and go fishing for it.

My old 92 was all stock with a drop in K&N filter would hit very high 70's, maybe 78 or 79 mph. At that time I weighed maybe 150 lbs. Sounds like yours is running pretty well. :biggrin:

Well, the injector duty cycle and F.I. controllers are out there. http://www.smcomp.com/~smurph/RZ-EFI/index.html http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.ph...asc&start=0

Fully jetted huh ? .........I wonder if that includes after burners ? I also wonder if it still has the gay TORS, or if he will include the stock pipes ? :yelrotflmao:

Maybe just in reverse or going the slowest :biggrin: " O'Doyle Rules "

Awesome Idea !!!!!!!!!! I am in for it 1000 % :biggrin: :biggrin:

Well it is my opinion that 2 strokes could meet if not exceed the EPA requirements with the addition of F.I. When I attempt my F.I. Banshee project, I am going to go the Microsquirt route and follow how GM went - using both a M.A.F. and M.A.P. sensors just to see if it can be done. I guess I don't really care if the 2 stroke is never brought back, I will always have mine. :biggrin: I also would have to disagree on the fact that you suggeested a F.I. engine doesn't last any longer than a properly tuned carbed engine. Just because it is F.I. doesn't mean that maintenece intervals decrease as some people treat them, but when a finely atomized fuel is sprayed directly at the intake opening rather than fuel being drafted from an orffice like a carb, engines run smoother and more efficient netting longer life than engines that don't run quite as smoothe. I do agree however that it is probably not real practical on atv's as a carb just because of the environments and such they are put thru.

My first Banshee was a 1992 that I bought used from a friend. I traded this thing for a 1985 Z-28 in 2002 and believe it or not, that thing was still on the original topendand completely stock other than the direct K&N replacement. It always had either premium pump or av-gas run thru it mixed with hp2 fully synthetic. This thing saw regular dune abuse at Silver Lake also. I was one that always thought that 2 strokes were less reliable, but this thing proved me wrong big time. I do believe that both 2 and 4 stroke engines of proior decades were less reliable due to the lack of technology that we have today. Todays engines have better port layouts - better cam profiles - better valve trains - better materials - better balancing, and last but not least "fuel injection", netting broader and efficient horsepower and longer life. :thumbsup: I wish all the "good ole 2 strokers" could be revived with the addition of fuel injection, I do believe however that because most people don't understand it or how it works, that the there will not be many people converting to it.

If you want torque, get a trail port or go with some RZ cylinders ( the powervalve's will net you bottom end torque ) get a 2 into 1 carb setup and get a 4mm stroker crank.

Here is the holes that should be oblonged for adjustment towards or away from the flywheel at the nub.

I could be wrong, but it looks as if your flywheel has been hitting / rubbing on it. The gap should be set with just the thickness of a matchbook cover.

I know things can get quite discouraging, but be patient, and stay persistant. If you have the mechanical "know how" to tear the topend apart and re-assmble it, then you will be able to fix this. One of the things I didn't catch is, did you "torque" the cylinder base down on both cylinders ? Another thing, did you make sure and grease the O-rings on the head so they stay put ? Did you "torque" the cylinder head ? Did you torque the 4 bolts that mount the intake boots to the back of the cylinders ? I would also consider a compression check. Just trying to help eliminate the possibilities of an air leak. I would also get those carbs synchronized. Like stated earlier I would start with the recommended jetting, with the needle clip in the middle position, screw your airscrews all the way in and turn them both out to whatever is recommended as a starting point. Don't give up !!! "YOU CAN DO IT" :beer:

I would think that any one of these components stator - cdi box - or coil could cause some weird things to happen. I have had vehicle issues that would cause misses under load but not at idle. Setting your timing back to zero with your stock stator was just a thought of "process of elimination", just because of all the issues several people have had with brand new RS stators.

You could tear upart a camera, that has a shudder in it, like you are describing for the iris. I have though about that before myself, but no means to put a lot of these ideas in motion. Another thing I wodered how well would work, is a barrel slide like that on a RC car/boat/plane carb, if you look thru an RC carb venturi as you open it, it's a liittle more elipticle vs. a Banshee carb as you move the slide it's more of a "D" shaped venturi. I also wondered if this could be possible : Take a 2:1 intkae design such as the Graydon and mate 2 carbs to the inlet side, maybe a smaller one for your throttle response low to mid and a slightly bigger one for the transition from mid to top, with a progressive linkage, kinda like how a spread bore 4 bbl carb works on a vehicle. Whether any of these ideas makes sense or not, my wheels are always turning.

I don't know who cuts them but I have seen some "turbo" cut domes that I am assuming is what you are referring to as swirl domes.

Now if you can only come up with a down scaled roots blower so that thing will be boostin at idle........... Maybe somebody could machine one up. Mike

Thanks for the update "Turbo".

NO... Not jealous, just being a little sarcastic. I don't talk shit either, sorry for offending you. Boost bottles are just a gimmick, if you have the money and want it just to say you have it, then go for it, but there will be no performance gains.

I would try putting your stock stator back in and setting the timing back to stock, maybe see if that doesnt do it.

Damn nice lookin' machine ! You can't go wrong with a legend like that, especially that nice.

WOW !!! You got the "BOOOOOOOOOOST BOTTLE" mods ?! Holy Crap, You better hang on real tight !!!! :woot: :woot: :woot: :laugh:

Hey there Dgrey, I am not trying to insult your intelligence so please don't be offended, but did you put the motor together yourself ? And if so, did you install the pistons in the right direction ? The arrow on top points to the exhaust and the windows in the skirt goes towards the intake. Also did you re-sync the carbs after the TORS removal ?

The boyesen "RAD Valve" is a whole cage. If I'm not mitaken the Boyesen's are just 4 petal reed setups vs. V-force's 8 that are adjustable.

Well, from what I could tell, there are 4 quads there. Maybe all purchased brand new with all 4 original receipts. - Banshee $ 6,000.00 - 250r $ 4,000.00 - Honda ? EX $ 4,000.00 - some P.O.S. $ 2,000.00 - Her having $ 16,000.00 into a stock banshee..............priceless ! :yelrotflmao: She needs to quit drinking the Bong Water !