RZBansheeMan

There were not any differences in the internal gearing on the Banshee, the only difference was from the RZ. The differnces in the Banshee were external sprocket gearing, the very first and second year maybe and that was because they came with a taller rear tire than the later ones. Look up the history on the Banshee. Mike

Yeah the Rockets, R2's, Pt's and stockers will clear. I think the pipes that I mentioned about being shimmed and a thinner pulley cover were T-5's. As for the different casting numbers on the RZ cylinders I think the only ones here in the states were the 31K and the 48H maybe and I think they were 52 - 55 hp there abouts. The 1UA's were the Canadian and maybe European, Aussie cylinders and were rated at 63 hp I have a set of 48H's that Jim should be finishing up; 4 mil 12 port with some dune durations. I also have a very virgin set of 1UA's sitting here by the desk. I sold the 31K's that I had some time ago. I did have a chance to look at the 1UA's next to the 31K's both with stock ports and the 1UA's were quite noticeably larger, you could see a substantial difference in the intake window opening, exhaust window had a taller opening, the boost port had a taller opening, and I think the transfer ports closest to the exhaust port had a taller opening. I realize the port maps show that, but doesn't really do the justice of having both cylinders in hand. Mike

A simple little bracket could be made that bolts on to the exhaust flange mounting studs to hook your pipe springs to. There also has been at least one person who has made a new PV actuator cover a bit thinner and had shimmed the pipe out a little bit so that they didn't have to massage the pipe with a hammer to clear. Mike

Clicky Here !!!! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

If I'm not mistaken, I think it's oxygenated for high altitudes, and is a slow burning fuel. I've also read somewhere that it's "supposedly" not that great of a fuel to run for performance aplications, but I've always ran it and never have had a problem with it. I've ran it in all my CR's that I used to have and I ran it in my old Banshee which was stock, mostly when I was at Silver Lake dunes. I think with the low lead content that it actually helps keep the cylinders lubricated. Mike

Are you actually wanting to keep it as close to stock as possible or are you awnting it to "appear" stock ??? With your current mods, you will only be able to beat old school 250 to 400 cc thumpers, to beat the "newer" 450 - 700 cc thumpers you will need a minimum of porting - T-5's - reeds - shaved head - I would even throw one of those timing plates in there and bump your timing +4 With all these mods, you would still be able to keep a "stock appearing" bike other than the pipes, and even those could be obtained in a flat black, or they could be high temp coated in a flat black to appear stock from a distance.

Oh Yeahhh Now time for a :beer:

I was trying to keep it short and sweet by avoiding all the tecnical name bs, and just state the fact that they were not plated aluminum cylinders. My appologies for not correctly labeling them as "cast iron alloy"

Those Raptor plastics are the GAYEST looking thing ever on a Banshee...........5 Hot'n Ready Pizza's and 5 Happy meals and 5 $5 subs for burning that shit and making a video of it....... :biggrin:

No they are not plated, they are just steel sleeves.............bore 'em, hone 'em, run 'em !!!

Should work just fine

It's hard to say if it's justifiable or not, that is up to you. Your probably looking at close to $ 1,500.00 give or take to properly do the swap. That would include purchasing a nice set of cylinders, pistons - machine work - gaskets - thorough cleaning of the PV's - new PV seals - port work, make sure they come with a cylinder head or Pro Design makes a cool head for the RZ and last but not least the electronics that are needed. I think they could posibly outrun the cylinders you have now, and with proper porting or a 4mil with porting, your friend would definately eat some roost. They come stock with port timings of damn near what you would call "Duner" specs when the valves are fully open, and when they are fully closed you will have more bottom then a stocker for sure, so how could you go wrong ??? Some would say it's not worth it, but to me it is. Mike

POOR BALLA

Due to the fact that Banshee's aren't known for their bottom end, it's kinda hard to do "slow" wheelies unless you build a torquey motor.

Yeah, I know what you're saying but if it were a long rod crank, it doesn't mean that whom ever put the motor together used the correct pistons for the longer rod. Just a thought.

If I had to shoot in the dark with this one, and you say it's a stock stroke. I would have to guess that maybe the crank has been replaced with a long rod crank and pistons for the short rod crank were used. This would put them out the top of the cylinder thus requiring a spacer plate at the bottom.

The "light switch power" statement is untrue about the 4mil stroker. The 4mil stroker is going to give you more bottom end and a broader mid range while still retaining the top, but should have the appropriate porting done to feed the added displacement. The porting style in conjunction with the proper pipes is what will determine how the power is delivered, a "drag" port will be more light switchy than a good "trail" or "dune" port. You also wouldn't want to thow a "drag" oriented pipe on a trail ported motor and or you wouldn't want to throw a "fatty pipe" on a drag ported motor. All in all if you have the funds, get the 4mil and the porting for it, because if you get porting done for a stock stroke, then decide to upgrade to the stroker, you might not be able to have the cylinders re ported for the stroker. Sounds like for what you want, a 4mil and a dune port would be the ticket, but that is something you should consult a builder about.

Pic #2 is correct

They will definately boost your bottom end, really broaden your mid-range, and have really good topend vs. stock banshee cylinders. There is nothing but a definate upgrade to be had with these cylinders. The best ignition setup would be the ZeelTronic. No these are not Drag cylinders so they will not beat a ported Cub or a Cheetah PV motor, but they are a huge increase over stock. They would make a great MX / Woods setup or they can be a great Duner, they are just a great all round cylinder set up. With the right porting, 4mil stroker, carbs, pipes, they are definately capable of 70 - 80 hp range and still have gobs of bottom / mid / top. The RZ cylinders have less exhaust duration than the stockers when the valves are fully closed and more when they are fully open, between 196* and 198* depending on which RZ cylinders your looking at, they also have larger transfer windows and larger intake windows than stockers . Mike

If you already have the RZ CDI then run it, as they have a hotter ignition curve over the stock banshee. They have 4* of advance over the stock banshee CDI, which in my opinon is better than a timing plate advanced 4*. The best RZ CDI is the 52Y 50. The stock Banshee CDI advances to 23* and the RZ advances to 27*, if that helps. Mike

http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB2/index.php?si...05b3a24276759a7 Hit these guys up, they are very knowledgable .

I would love to build a 7 mil RZ motor, if I had the extra cash laying around. Go ahead and build yours and let us know how it turns out !

I agree with "firehead" that it would look GAY, but not any less gay than a shee with shaved rear fenders.....

None, it's super GAY to choke up these wonderous engines with any 2:1 bullshit !

Yeah, that is what they are supposed to do, I think it is some kind of self cleaning cycle from what I understand. How do you like the swap so far, or haven't you ridden it enough yet to know ?