RZBansheeMan

Hit these guys up, there are several extremely knowledged guys here ! RZ link

Wrong, it needs to be set up properly with "4 mil stroker porting" and " 4mil stroker domes" for the cool head. Avoid using the gay spacer plates.

You can say whatever you want "camatv" about the RZ motor being a piece of shit.....Just remember you are calling the the Banshee motor a piece of shit also. The good ole Yammi twin has been around since the 70's, the best thing Yamaha ever did was liquid cool it and add the Power Valves, then they detuned the shit out of it and stuff it in the worlds greatest quad. The RZ swap might not be for everyone and or not everybodies first choice, but it is by far no means a piece of shit, it actually a really awesome upgrade over Banshee cylinders !!

That is super GAY !! A dude with 2 mermen jackin' eachother and a couple of cocks Skeetin' :yucky: :yucky:

:yelrotflmao: Now that is some funny shit MJ......

It really depends on if you want a "drag" motor or a "recreational" play motor, your T6's are not gonna perform the best with cubs and stock stroke. I think you would be best off having your cylinders "dune" ported with a 4 mil, and then down the road if you decide you want more, get a set of 4 mil cubs. Just my opinion.

Thanks to those of you who have reduced your sigs / pics down, greatly appreciated. "EastCoast" I hope you didn't take anything personally, I really liked your sig pics but were just way too wide. I only started this topic to try and get some of you to put the sigs on a lil diet. It's kind of funny (not really though) when I went to work last night at 6:30 eastern, there were only 3 pages on this topic, I get home at 3:30 am and there were 9 pages. Well I took the time to read most the stuff, and to my surprize (sarcasim)............. You get "Zach" and "MJ" aka. "Chuck & Larry" trying to spread their GAYNESS once again, what a waste of time trying to speed read past their Bull Shit. Those "Broke Back" fellas need to stay out from the mature guys' topics. Thanks "LOCO" for the support. Mike

Yeah, the sad thing is that the RZ swap can be kind of expensive and definately doesn't get enough credit. There are lots of people that think they are gonna get a awesome torque motor out of a stock cylinder motor by putting that 2:1 pipe and carb shit on there and then doing whatever porting they do to it, which maybe they will be torquey but not without sacrificing all the top end. The Banshee / RZ motors were designed to be high RPM screamers, the only reason I could see Yamaha taking those goodies off from the RZ to make the Shee would be to keep things simple, lessen the maintenence, maybe lessen the cost. As I have said before, a 4 mil RZ motor (with proper 4 mil porting) would be a killer trail, woods, mx motor that will more than out perform the choked up stockers with the 2:1 shit and still go out and be a real hot duner / recreational dragger. Sorry but I despise the 2:1 carb / pipe setups, to me in comparison, that would be like taking a Chevy DZ 302 motor (some will know what I'm talking about) putting 2bbl 350 heads on it, a 2bbl carb, a low RPM econimizer cam in it, slapping it in a big ole dually one ton and saying it's your car hauler. I will take some close up pics of all the parts later and post them up or even E-Mail them to you "Phantom" along with wiring diagrams. Thanks to all you that have in depth experience with these motors and this swap for chiming in !!! Mike

"EastCoast Banshee" is one of these poster sized sig guys.....

I have all the stock RZ components if any body wants to see pics of what all is required for the swap Cylinders PV's Head Stator CDI PV control box PV servo motor The only thing I don't have yet, I still need to make is the exhaust flanges. I also have all the wiring diagrams too if anybody wants to see them. As for anybody wanting to track down any RZ parts I can point you in a good direction.... Clicky here

There are a few people out there that have huge sig pics, Don't get me wrong, they are really nice pics, but I am not and or cannot afford to go and buy a 20 + inch monitor just to see their sig pics. Mike

You all Know who you are, You do not need a sig pic that takes up half the God Damn screen !!! I as well as others find it very annoying to have to side scroll to read people's post's or replies, so could those of you out there with huge sig pics, please reduce their size a tad bit just for common curtousy. Thanks, Mike

My thoughts exactly !!! The Banshee engine is nothing more than a very Detuned RZ engine to begin with with less HP and Torque. The ultimate woods engine would include a RZ top end, RZ shift forks and drum, and of course a 4 mil crank with appropriate porting. Yamaha was way ahead of it's time when it came out with the YPVS, kinda interesting how "honda" uses a electronically controlled PV on their CR's now. As stated most the electrical problems were from using parts that were 20+ years old that may have been inadequate or faulty, a whole NEW completely programmable ignition system and PV controller can be had for about 400 $ shipped to the U.S., it can be used with the stock Banshee stator also. Stock the RZ's have appx. 197 - 200 degree exhaust durations (depending on year) when the Valves are fully open, so therefore you could have your cake and eat it too, tons of grunt and asshaulin' top. I would be willing to bet a side by side comparo using a set of 1UA RZ barrels with stock porting - stock carbs - T-5's - Hell, even stock electrical components, all on a Banshee VS. Stock cylinder - a silly 2:1 pipe - a silly 2:1 carb - a "woods" or "trail" port.............I'd bet that the RZ powered shee will do everything just as well if not better in the woods, trails and definately kick it the stock cylindered shee's ass duning or dragging. I've never understood why anybody would want to choke a banshee motor up with all that 2:1 shit to try and make a torquey combo out of it when there are far superior options to make torque, broad powerband and not "LOOSE" all it's famed top.

On my first "Shee", completely stock other than K&N, I could pull 4th gear wheelies all day long (no clutching) with my right knee on the seat once near the powerband. I preffered to sit down and pull them in third though and then click all the way through sixth though, again with no clutching. :biggrin:

Get a "Clymers" or a "Haynes" manual for your Banshee, those should be on E-Bay, and lot's of useful info.

That's the way to "Represent" !!!!

They will work, but you will need to get the head re-chambered to work properly, as the blaster pistons have a different dome shape.

GO GIANTS !!!!!!!!

I thought that on a cylinder with a bridged exhaust port, you would want to drill 2 holes on the exhaust side of the piston in line with the bridge for added lubrication, along with relieving the bridge.

Even though it may be an expensive alternative, there is the Viper sleeves for stock cylinders. I would be willing to bet a 4 mil drag ported viper setup with the proper pipes, carbs, ignition, could hit 100 hp easily and be a super sleeper. I have also seen stock heads cut for interchangeable domes and that were O-ringed also........ :cool:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=douche+bag

Watch out for " THOSE GUYS".....

The Banshee engine is just a de-tuned streetbike engine from the early 80's. That's what made the banshee the crazy machine that it is.

The PWK's have a smoothe round inlet bell, and the PWK Airstykers have a couple of little fins on the inlet to direct the air over the main nozzle for improved signal and throttle response. They also have quad vents to help from bogging after jumping, the reason being that these are MX carbs. In my opinion, if your gonna be dragging, the PWK's would be more than sufficient, but if your going to be duning or mxing where you'd be likely to hit a lot of whoops or jumps, the airstryker would probably be the better choice.

I bought my Mity Vac at AutoZone for like $ 30.00, and thing has been so damn useful, it works great for bleeding hydraulic clutches on vehicles too. I think the only problem I've ever had is trying to use it on a gnarly rusty bleeder, sometimes the hose won't get a good seal around it.