thesheerider

Carbs are synced, has two 30mm OKOs jets might be a little off but, the left side cylinder is popping at wide open throttle. Sprayed the stator and flywheel with starting fluid during idle and no change. Might be the crank seal but doesnt make sence. Head gasket appears to be fine, im going to replace it anyhow. Exhasuted is not sealing the best going to replace o rings. Any ideas??

Wheres a good place to get jets and needles for keihin carbs?????

i got the 30 mm OKO carbs on ebay for 89 a piece. they fit stock intake boots and the air box boots. i heard they are nasty for any unported, stock cylinder banshee. like 15% horsepower gain. its just been a pain to get the jetting right. its unresponsive as hell. im pretty sure its lean. i order 42 pilot jets earlier in the week. ill try them and then order some 48's and CEL needles. does the needle really make that much difference? thanks for the help. been driving me nutts went through 10 different main jet sizes finally got that right.

oko is a knock off of keihin carbs they are the same exact build just a hell of alot cheaper. all keihin parts fit in oko carbs, and vise versa. what needle do you think would be the best?

what size pilot jet do i need? i have 145 mains that run great. got FMF pipes, k&n filter. i at 1000 ft. i have 39 pilot jet in it now and the machine has no bottom end until the main jets open up. any suggestions?? just trying to get close.

how do i check and adjust my float? whats the best way?

couple other questions. should i change the needle or any other jets in the carbs. the carbs were bought as a stock 30mm oko carb. and im only running 120 for compression.

What size main jet and pilot screw should i get for running two 30mm oko's in the shee? The shee has a 2 in 1 dyno prt pipe, airbox w/ lid, 20 over on each cylinder. Im 500 ft above sea level. Any Ideas?? help is definitally needed. oh yea and i was running 220's in the stockies before i changed the carbs. oko's and kehins are basically the same right?

I think i figured it out, compression and octane are alright. im pretty sure its the new stator i just put on, i did a bunch of work, including CDI, eliminating the TORS & Lights. the timing was not advanced, but the stator i got was from RM stator and its a piece of shit, cast aluminium bullshit. i will never buy any thing from RM stator again, they didnt even send me the free xenon bulbs. so i wouldnt recomend RM Stator to anyone. The cast was so weak that i snapped the adjusting ear off, and then stripped the pick up coil mounts by just barely tightening it. Oh yea and the manifold gasket are fine i checked them.

Detonating in the left cylinder/ choke cylinder, i recently cleaned the carbs. seems like choke is stuck on, what should i be looking for? not to good with these carbs. i relize there is a choke jet in the float bowl and a tube that connects them. did i put something back together wrong? did i loose something?

The Stator and CDI fried, before i replaced them. i have not checked the pickup gap. Would it even fire if the gap was off? Im running 95 octane, i havent modified the heads. i eliminated the TORS, and lights.

I just replaced my Stator, CDI, Ignition coil and plug wires. I put in a RS Stator with adjustable plate, i have it set at 2 degrees advanced, but runns terrible, extremely laggy. Then i cleaned and synced the carbs. I adjusted the timing +/- 2 degrees, doesnt make a difference. Also runs very hott, starts overheating in 10 mins of riding. Any Ideas??