rubberneck

A 421 kit however is basically bolt on. You may consider that. With the right carbs/pipes and tuning a 421 will make about 90Hp on gas I believe. Probably more if you had further port work done.

I think in general if your crank is not welded they dont recomend smaller than 21cc domes. Smaller than that you will need to run race gas also depending on elevation

LOl yeah, this thing is starting to snowball bad. I was going to do a rebuild, then I said screw it and ordered everything to do the 4mil cub from Jeff at FAST. Then I decided well I may as well doll it up a bit, so I called him back and ordered a billet stator cover and a direct drive lock up cover. Now i have the whole bike stripped, and im smoothing all the welds, removing all the worthless bracket and bracing the frame. Trying to decide on a color scheme. Kind of thinking all black and aluminum. If its not aluminum it will be black. Then again, I like red, so I have been thinking black frame, black and aluminum motor with red plastics and red accents like the hubs/ sprocket/brake hubs pegs shock cover etc. I dont know. well see. The visa is maxxed, the wife is pissed and Im tired. Its a good tired though LOL

Kind of hard to tell from the pic, how old are those plugs? The best way to do it would be to do a plug chop on a set of new plugs. You should have a 2mm wide chocolate brown stripe at the base of the porcelain. On another note, something you may want to think about since you advanced timing. I would start running premium, not midgrade fuel. I just lost a rod in my bike. On the good side, the piston was showing some signs of detonation. I had a little pitting near the exhaust port. I had been running +5 timing mixing 40:1 with redline and running 92 octane with stock head 125psi compression. I dont know if this contributed to my lost rod bearing, but it could of. So i say go premium. I am going to back the timing off to +3 on my other bike just to be safe, may even start mixing in a little race fuel. just my .02

Keeping the jugs. They are on stock bore and actually didn't get scarred up. i think i could hone them and reuse. Honestly, I dont know if i am going to like the CUB. I dont drag race, I just want a hot duner. If i dont like the cubs, i am going to send the stockers off to be dune ported for my 4mil crank and sell the cubs. I just wanted to try the cubs, plus, they are available right now. It seem that most of the porters have quite a backlog of work right now, and i am in a bit of a hurry. If i do like the cubs, i will probably have them dune ported for stock stroke and throw them on my bros bike.

Switch the carbs from side to side and see if the problem follows the carb or stays with that cylider. On stock carbs you will have to cap off the bosses that the choke tube goes between. Or do a leak down test like was suggested and that will tell you if you have an air leak for sure.

The twine is what i use for non-critical fastening jobs. You need the wire for critical stuff like suspension parts, engine components and frame mending. LOL :yelrotflmao:

Jay, you either have an old ricky stator or you have one of the electrex or other brands that have 2 separate legs. the new rickys have only 1 leg. I think most guys run through the switch like you, but i didn't want to do that so i bought a couple of switches from trail tech and am wiring them up so i can switch the light independantly. They are the push button style and im going to put them in the tank cover. I wanted to clean up the bars anyway, so i just got a dirt bike kill switch on the bars and then putting the light switches down below. I wasnt sure if you could run a relay on the AC system, so i didn't plan on it, but if you can, then that is what i will do. Does anybody know for sure?? forgot to add, on mine, i bought the rickystator 250watt regulator. on your system, i belive you can just run 2 stockers. i guess you could just run both legs through one regulator, but i dont think the stocker is rated for the higher wattage third one down on this link: http://trailtech.net/switches.html

Get a machine that will run gas man. The flux core is ok for outdoor stuff like fences and whatnot, but the welds dont look near as nice as if you were running gas. if you are going to be doing frames and stuff that you want to look nice get the gas. If you dont spend the money now you will probably end up doing it anyway later. why buy twice. my .02

im a portagee, we use bailing wire on everything. duct tape is too high tech and expensive. lol

It also helps to run a skid plate on the swinger. They aren't the prettiest, but i have been running an armadillo and it keeps the sand out.

I like it the way it sits with no stickers, but I kind of like the plain jane look. My vote. Leave it. Its simple, clean and the red grill cover and accent in the seat give it a little pop

Nice bike man. From what I have seen on here, most people would say 35s if it has a very aggressive port job otherwise stick to the 33mm. I dont know anything about that cylinder, on a 4mil x 68 cub, jeff at fast had me go with 39mm carbs because they flow a lot.

True that. I had planned on tearing her down after the summer anyway and building a new motor. This just rushed my plans. :biggrin:

Oh yeah, and that pile of molten crap, I believe is what is left of the rod bearing. I found that rattling around inside the pipe.LOL

Well, I had assumed that I leaned her out and blew a hole in a piston becuase it dropped like 35 degrees at night and we went riding. Well got her torn down this week and I dont think thats my problem LOL check it out. This happened so quick, and really didn't make that much noise, i just assumed piston not thrown rod. Im not sure if the rod let go and that caused the crank to separate, or vise versa, but crank is separated quite a bit and im assuming blown out of phase. All I need to do now is get everything cleaned up, do some work on a couple of spots inside the case where the rod marked it up and then I can start putting her back together. Have a 4mil long rod crank trued and welded going back in with a cub top end. 39PWKs with billet bowls and shearer inframes. Cant wait to feel the power.

fastrthnu, maybe zach45 can measure his arms for you and then when his come out at about 16.5" from pivot point to center of the ball joint, you can ask mike at ASR how come zachs are longer than yours if you both supposedly have the same arms?

Spend your money elsewhere. Im not going to waste my time repeating the drama i have had with them, but if you look through the threads of the last couple of weeks, you will see. To make a long story short, i ordered a-arms and +2 swingarm from them. The rear sprocket sat too far to the outside of the bike creating a chain misalignment issue. I proved it wasnt my frame by installing the arm on a total of 3 bikes. It fit every bike the same. They still blew me off and insisted i was doing something wrong. I dealt with them off and on for 4 months at which point they won because I gave up. I did some machine work to the arm and carrier and was able to make it work. I am lucky my dad has a machine shop or it would be sitting on the shelf. I am a pretty easy going guy. It takes a lot to get me worked up and I have never in my life had to start openly badmouthing a company in hopes they would take care of an issue. They basically wrote me off in my opinion, and I never repeat never so much as got rude with them. I tried to stay calm and hope they would take care of me. They didn't Their a-arms seem to work ok on my bike, but its the only set ive owned besides stock. I will tell you their powder coating stinks. After 1 trip to the dunes, they are extremely dull and have a couple of chips in them already. I dont know do what you want, but i personally would spend my money with another company. Their first response to problems seems to be to either blame the customer for not putting it on correctly or say there is something else wrong with their bike. Nevermind the fact that the stock components that you are replacing worked just fine.

HaHa. thats very funny. Im no lawyer, but i believe its not slander if its true. I have plenty of emails and have documented my phone conversations with them to show its true on my end.

Hell yeah man. I have been tempted to put my swingarm up for sale on ebay with their name in the description with the pics of the sprocket misalignment issues. I want to put like a 2 grand reserve just to insure some dumbass doesn't try to buy it and run the damb thing continuously. Every time somebody searches for american star or swing arm I want them to see what i have been dealing with for the last 4 months. Im going to do my best to make sure nobody i come in contact in person or in the cyberworld never buys anything from them again.

I have had good luck with oil-eaters brand. Haven't tried the napa stuff. will have to get some.

Im going to be there during the week tues the 18th through fri the 21st.

Yep thats their game. Blame everything on the other parts, not theirs. Nevermind that the other parts worked just fine before you installed theirs. Screw them man. I wish you had read some of my threads before ordering from those clowns. Oh well. Maybe we can keep some other HQ members from making the same mistake we did. DONT BUY ANYTHING FROM AMERICAN STAR I am putting that in the sig on every profile of every quad dirtbike and even diesel truck board I belong too.

Oh imagine that another unhappy ASR customer. (read my sig) They dicked me around for almost 4 months on a swinger that is not right. I finally did a bunch of machine work to make it right after they kept giving me the runaround and wouldn't let me return it. I just measured my ASR a arms which are +2+1 and they are 15.5 from center of pivot point to center of spindle heim joint. That idiot is probably measuring the arm itself, and not from center to center. That is my bitch about them. You obviously know what you have is wrong,yet they want to argue. screw them. if they'll give you your money back take it and go somewhere that is worth a crap. If not, yell and scream untill they get you the correct arms

You know what that sounds pretty cool, do you happen to know what the size of the ram is. I dont use it enough to justify their hydraulics, but if I could put something together for that kind of money, that would be way better than the ratchet system on their now. LOL