rubberneck

Why are the v-force a no no with nitrous?

The easiest way IMHO is not to use the gasket trick. Paint the gasket surface of the case with a magic marker or machinist dye. After it dries bolt the cylinder to the top case half with a couple of nuts, no gasket in place. Turn the whole thing upside down on the bench and use a curved scribe to mark it from below. You want one of the machinest scribes that has a straight point on one end and a hook on the other. You can reach down through the top case half from the bottom side and run the curved end of the scribe all along the cylinder to case junction. It will leave a nice exact replica of the shape of the cub cylinder on the gasket surface of the case. what i did was just grind the case out to this line and then blend it down to the radiused part of the case. dont take off anymore material than you need to smooth things out. The thing about the gasket trick is that the gasket (at least the one i had) was actually bigger in several areas than the cylinder, so in order to match the gasket you would have been opening up the cases more than you need.

No its not. There is a breather on top of the case near the rear motor mount. As long as that one is in good working order you do not need the one by the water pump. The direct drive lockup covers dont even have this vent in them. Get rid of it, just one less hose to be cluttering things up.

Snake oil. Most octane boosters just contain solvents that slow the burn rate of the fuel and therefore decrease preignition. they dont actually raise the octane of the fuel. Buy the proper fuel or lower the compression.

You will be taking that motor apart sooner than you want. I am exactly where you will be in 6 months. LOL I did exactly what you are doing. these guys said get the override, i said no. Now the motor is apart. Do it man, you wont be sorry.

No dyno time, no experience with and without. I matched mine when i built it. I was told it is good for 2-3 HP max so i did it. If you dont do it, there is a considerable lip right in the flow path , so it just made sense to do it.

I beg to differ. Dajo warned me, but I didn't listen at the time. I have a 4mil cub that i did not put an override in because it was more of a duner and didn't think it would benefit me. Guess what, its getting split now so i can put an override in. If you are drag racing, there is no other choice than an override. clutchless shifts will do nothing more than make you quicker. The only other thing, you may want to think about is the swingarm. I was told that the link style arms will ride much better for a stock frame dune dragger like what you are building. You will also want the marvin hill shooter not the comp. I was told the comp valving is too harsh and that the hillshooter was designed for exactly what you want. something that will handle the whoops better. I just bought a +10 arm for my drag bike build. I was told that I may still have the front end in the air with this arm, so you may consider longer, +10 or +12. As far as the carbs go, Lectrons are sweet, i would love to try them on my bike. My buddy has some on his 10mil stock cylinder bike. It kicks ass because no jet changes when we go from pismo to sand mountain. Just external adjustments which is nice. If packard says use 40s, from what i hear, he is the man so do what he says. LOL Edit: unless you just want to spend the money, I dont think you need the straight cuts. I was told by several people when i built my cub, that you dont need them at that HP level.

No probably not. Although most people are going to tell you they do it, even with the duneable, it is not advised to excessively backload the trans (let the motor slow the bike down) It wears shift forks.

Correction, the 1995 and 1996 have a different plug on the CDI only. So for CDI, you have 87-94, then 95&96, then 1997 on up. Stator would be 87-94 and then from 1995 on up. FYI, the CDI will work just fine if you change the plug to whatever style harness you have. In other words you can buy a CDI for another year bike and put your plug on it to make it work. I did this for my 95. Keep in mind the newer CDI boxes have the parking brake interupt and you need to deal that wire if you put that stator on an older bike or a bike with no parking brake

Man i dont know. dont think you are going to find a lot of hands on experience with that combo. FMF pipes and 28mm carbs are not a real popular combo with a Cub. You are neutering those cylinders. They like high rpm pipes and lots of air flow. You will want CPI, shearer or pipes of that like and 33-35 mm carbs to take advantage of that cylinder.

IMHO a 1/2" drive torque wrench has no use on a banshee except maybe the hubs or swinger pivot bolt. Most 1/2" drive torque wrenches are going to have a range too high especially for engine assembly. Torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle of their range, so thats where you ideally want to be when in use. I would get a 3/8 drive 5-70 ft/lb wrench and a 1/4" drive inch pound wrench. that will cover you for anything you need on a bike. Specifacally for your question, i use 3/8" drive snap on for cylinders and case bolts/nuts. And you get what you pay for in torque wrenches.

Wow, pics look pretty good at night. So did i read that right that each light only draws about 10 watts? You said 30 for all 3 right? Could you run 4 with a stock stator and still charge battery?

Got the bumper and electrical stuff yesterday. Thanks. Bump for you

Hey snop, can you get some pics at night showing how they light up an area. I am interested in these i think if they put out the light of HID

it shourd be .018" If you cant fit a business card in there, it is too tight. If you do not have a feeler gauge, the business card trick will get you running. To adjust it, loosen the 2 screws that hold the pick up coil. (You can see the top one in your pic, the other is just below the coil) Stick your business card inbetween the lug on the flywheel and pick up. Then just snug the screws back down.

I hate pop its. after a while they pop off all the damn time even when they shouldn't

:: :: :: :no: :no: :no: :no: :: :: :: T5s with foam filter at sea level should run approx 280 mains

6 bolt. I know the older bikes had 4 bolt, but i think it was only the first couple of years. I have a 95 and 2001 and both are 6 bolt

I have a 1972 for pinto i would like to trade for a ferrari, or lamborghini make me an offer. Sorry man, i just had to. you're asking a lot right there :biggrin:

We are just trying to give him some unbiased advice. We all know that a banshee can be built into whatever you want it to be. However stock for stock ( I mean stock right down to pipes) A 450 kills a banshee in every aspect. It will be faster handle and stop way better and the suspension is far better. Sorry, thats the facts. I didn't want to belive it until i rode one but thats the way it is. Put some pipes, and shocks on a banshee and some 450 calipers, and you have something going on. Problem is that will cost him money, and for what he is getting that 450 for he is doing the right thing. If he was anywhere near me, id be down at the dealer tommorrow.

Isn't that the truth. They are great untill you actually take the bike to the sand for the first time then they turn to shit.

You said stiffy.

Doesn't everybody want a longer rod

Only thing to think about is that in this economy, i doubt you will be able to turn that 450 and make that much of a profit. Its a great deal for new, but as soon as it leaves the dealer it is used period, and that is not that great of a deal for a used bike. If all you are looking for is a near stock bike with filter and pipe, i say the 450 is the way to go. Much better suspension and handling in the really tight woods type trails. I dont know why all these guys say they are uncomfortable, i ride a 2004 and i think its pretty damn comfy. I guess its all just personal opinion. Go sit on both and see what grabs you. i love banshees as much as the next guy, but for that price and for what you want, i think the 450 is the way to go.

450 hands down for that price