sleeper06

Ty I'll be hitting you up soon. Waiting on deposit from customer

Damn I guess every lil bit helps, I'll just take a big dump before the the race lol

Crankworks doesn't have forged webs anymore and they wanted 800 for billet webs

Hp I know you said there were two diffrent timing options where are the two at when bought I'm looking to finish up at like 192 on the exhaust is that an option

I'm looking foward to getting my hands on them I almost feel like assembling it then rip it down to port it so I can see diffrence

I built two for 300'guys , they bought me quick disconnects from sled shop. I used a 12v bilge pump from a boat and a car battery welded to cart . I used quick disconnect on bottom hose closest to pump and pumped water rite through pump housing without removing pump . Why do you wanna remove pump?

I think they all had keys Key switch red to black = connection should be a connector behind rad and was most likely poorly deleted and could be your problem , pull tank and check harness. On/off. Blk and blk with white trace keep wires separated to test , wires are normally open in run condition

Most likely harness issues then , these plugs get filthy I would separate all plugs , take carb clean and a lil brush to clean plugs , then blow with compressed air then dielectric grease all rubber and connection points . Also look over harness I chased my tail the other day over a shotty butt conn

And IMO you won't figure out final gearing till your 60' is consistent

What motor you running

I have at least 50 send me ur address

I've started messing with the new time delayed lockout from direct drive and I've gotta say it's a much better design than the original. No longer do u have to work to slow the arms down spring tension does it for . It's closer to a multistage design that I use on street bikes but a fraction of the cost . I do however recommend learning the basics and seeing results with the basics before jumping into a lockout with a 3rd parameter.

Could be an air leak, weak spark

So basically you want a bike that does it all . Let me know, I do too.

If it was left out in the weather plan on spending more than 2g , it a cpl bucks just on clips , washers, wear parts in the internal engine

Your not building a drag bike, if you do what's pictured there it will snap and you will get hurt. Your jumping rite

So Dom

Aside from Cfm that's a good fine tune adjustment using the egt's, if it's synced still use 1/4 turns on the air screw to even egt. Are they the same distance from piston face?

Back when I was younger we used to put jetskiing powervalves on a handle. It worked great in back bay skeeter ditches , it gave us more control without the engine managing the valve

Mike j know you well enouph to know if you had a drag bike it would be titanium everywhere and no expense spared . That's pretty much the selling point . It should be the "why the hell not" bolt kit

Usually I look at the torrid and see where the holding point is and keep that towards the caliper. However the ends fall out after that is how they go on

.058-.068 wall chromoly

You just confused the shit outta me, I'm like I thoufh I was in for sale

Stellar, turbo chassis, jl

Where you from in ny?