sleeper06

That's one he modified, spend 350 on a cover then send it to him for weight reduction

Very nice work

Don't stip anything, plug holes, buy new bolts

Stay away from airstrykers

Who bought them, I sent one of customers your way just curious if he bought them

Who bought them, I sent one of customers your way just curious if he bought them

Bolt it up and go!

We're there servo motors on these, just curious

Yes, like as said as long as your intention is that portiing can be done

My best advice is keep an eye on the bikes for sale, you could find one duped to nuts for 5-6k and then have good parts to sell and a base of parts you need , people do what you do all the time then sell them cheap, just my advise after doing it your way and building multiple customer machines

As long as your cylinders are not past a certain point. If someone is clear with intent to me I can port cylinders to a point and still leave adjustability for a decent 4 mil port

There were a few long rod cranks, in the for sale section for around 300 and they looked like very little use

Snipers

That like a big money list looks good

I would not use that crank, it's old beat n might not even be a 4 mil

You wanna try something diffrent for trail riding, stock stroke long rod with torque porting , boost porting , high compression, race gas , some timing . Power everywhere. I've rece built a few and they are fun and rev excellent

How cheap and what's the condition, there's a reason it's few and far between you see anything about em on this site , and a reason no builder will recommend it .more food for thought the crank is the heart of your engine , treat your heart good and it will treat you good . The added stroke with short rod put unneeded stress on the piston skirt . Don't say I didn't worn you

If you have a choice go long rod the rod angle is much more desirable and IMO a better build. I've seen short rods shake apart . I've also put a few together that are still zingin three yrs later

Rotors are removable but the mounts should be machined into the rim. Mine are banshee taper and have two diffrent inner diameter bearings to accept taper , have you measure and compared yhem to stock hubs

A quick ? Would you happen to have any idea how much weight chrome would add to my bare swinger

Vr46 would love this thing

I've used all types of heads , I will only use a stock modified head by mull engineering or noss machine style . Never a problem going that route

The mph these things pull in the 1/8 is rediculous

I would love to build this set up , I think there's nothing better for asphault .

^ check multi meter setting before you chase other parts