Killswitch69

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? T5 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&N 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with K&N Powerlid 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) Sea level to 1000ft 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 30 Vito's needle in middle 6) What size main jets are you using? 340 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 80 8) Do you have a port job? Dune port 9) What kind of carbs? Stock 10) What size carbs? Stock Vito's 66mm 10 port jugs at 160psi compression (110 race fuel), Cool head, +4 timing advance. Could go down one or two sizes on pilot as it is a little rich on bottom.

Does anyone know of any ice racing in or around eastern PA?

Going to try flat track and would like to know what is considered the best all around tire and rim setup. Tracks would be clay ovals from 1/5 to 1/4 mile. What size tires for front = What size tires for rear = What size rim and offset front = What size rim and offset rear = I am planning on R6 shock for rear ( I have one already) and a widening and lowering kit front. Ohlins shocks up front. Rear +4 axle with stock swinger. Some kind of front anti roll bar up front Motor is mostly stock with Toomey T6, Boyesen reeds, FS Dynatek ignition, stock carbs (310 mains, 25 pilot), 14/41 gearing. Any help or input would be great for any setup suggestions. Thanks

Zeros out and wire ends ohm 5.93k, so I know it is working properly.

I checked out like 5 or 6 old OEM caps I had and not one could I get to read on my Fluke meter and I was testing from the pin on the cap to the plug clip. Why would these read OL, but if you put them on the coil the bike runs? I tested these caps by running 12vdc through them and the voltage was cut down to 3vdc. Is this typical of the stock caps? How is it possible that I can't get a an ohm reading but it still passes voltage?

Are you talking about these caps? PARTS UNLIMITED KLG-TYPE PLUG CAP

I thought that stock caps were resistor type. Is this not true? Could it be that one side will pull a better spark if the resistance is too high? Now in conjunction with resistor plugs am I adding even more resistance?

Sorry guys the pipes are T5's and NOT t6.

Ignition is good, cap to cap ohms out 16k ohms. Caps and wires are new.

I ran it last night and it runs much stronger. Hard running and plugs look pretty close, but left side still way richer than right on low speed (1/8-1/4 throttle). Running it around and keeping throttle at 1/8 to 1/4 I pulled the plugs and right side looks clean/dry and left very dark and wet. I backed out the left air screw 7 turns and got the plug to dry up a bit but still rich. I tried swapping plug wires and no help there. The wires are new as well as the caps. They ohm out at 16.5k from cap to cap. I am running the NGK resistor caps. The coil with out caps ohms 5.5k and each cap is a 5k ohm cap so 16.5k is about right. Should i not be running resistor caps and just resistor plugs? Not sure it matters.

That is a great idea! I'll try tonight and if the plugs come in different I'll swap the carbs and try again. Let you know in the morning Thanks

i'm at sea level and it has been about 60 F when testing. I'm going to try it tonight and hopefully the case leak was causing the issues. I'll post up tomorrow morning with the plug chops and low speed results.

Has anyone with great experience ever had to stagger jet a twin carb setup? I’ll try to make this short but here’s the story. Just put a Vito’s 10 port 66mm Cylinder kit on with Coolhead and 21cc SB domes machined to .047” squish and compression at 185psi after break-in. Toomey T6 and stock carbs. Running VP110 @ 40:1 mix. Carb jetting is 340 mains, 30 pilot, vito’s needle on 3rd, 1.6 air jet, and 0-8 needle jet. Air screws at 1.5 out. On break –in it seemed that left side ran rich on bottom end. Put new plugs in and did a couple plug chops. Right side had 2mm light brown ring at base and no color above (new plugs thinking not in long enough to get low speed color yet) and left side had slightly darker 2mm ring at base and tan brown above ring. Figured I needed to buy Sync tool and get carbs right. Did that and same deal with left side running rich on bottom. I went through carbs and cleaned, rechecked three times. I checked choke and tube. Finally yesterday morning I built a pressure tester and found that it would not hold pressure. After an hour I found the leak coming from behind the left cylinder case drain ( that hole that drains the top of the transmission of water) So I pulled the motor and tore it down. There was a bad seal between the left cylinder case halves that was causing a leak in that drain area and into transmission case for the left cylinder. I cleaned and used all new seals and put her back together. I pressure tested again and it held 6 psi for over an hour. I fired it up last night and sync the carbs. It still seems like the left side is running rich. Left side at idle fires but pipe feels much cooler that right side. Give it a little blip to maybe ¼ throttle and see more smoke from left that right. Now I will put some fresh plugs in and do a high speed plug chop tonight after work and see if the low end jetting evens out but my hunch is I will still be fat on left. Has anyone ever had to stagger jet twin carbed banshee’s? if this is still fat on left cylinder what else can I look at?

The cylinders do have a dune port from Vito's on the 10 port cylinders. This thing puts out out quite a bit of power. Stroking will come next year. This bike will be shipped to Cali for riding the dunes and I have another here in PA that I plan to build a much bigger motor, tune, setup and swap motors between the two.

A friend has a set of Sand Shark 20x10x9 8paddle that he is willing to give me. Is this a good all around play tire or is it designed for more hill climbing and drag racing? That would free up a few bucks to get some front sand tires. Or should I just get haulers? Thanks for all your input guys!