bigblockbanshee

Has it indeed been cut or was it cast that way? Looks like a Vito's Superstock piston to me. Supposed to "fool" the engine into thinking it's ported or something. That's the terminology that others have used anyway.

Don't know why I didn't think of that, probably because it was so obvious lol. Sticking throttle cable makes much more sense to me.

Actually, that link is only the caps, adjusters, and cable. If you look down below it shows another listing for a drill bit, tap, and 2 screws with nuts for an extra $24.99. I'd hit eBay man, that's expensive for the whole kit.

That's the one I ordered from Toomey when I got my jet kit. Like I said, if you shop around a bit I think you can find it much cheaper, i.e. eBay...

The TORS elimination kit should run you about $50 if you buy the kit, prob much less if you shop around and get the individual parts. When I suggested a leakdown test I was going off of the other post. If indeed you did have an air leak it seems to me that it would idle high all of the time, not just when you hit the throttle, but that's just my opinion. I think there is a thread at the top of this section about making your own leakdown tester and it also tells how to do the test itself. There are also members on here that will sell you one for a good price.

Also have you done a leakdown test to make sure you don't have any leaks?

Check to make sure your slides aren't turning in their bores. Personally I'd spend a little money and get those goofy TORS boxes off of there. It would be a ton easier to work on.

That's nice to know because I've definitely got some discolored spots from where the previous owner of the plastics had neglected them a bit. Who'd have thought that household products would work on stuff like this? First I was reading on R1-Forum tonight that people are using Pledge to polish up their bikes and now we have Soft Scrub being used on plastics. What's next, lol?

Use some spacers (washers, etc.) to get the fit you need and get everything snug. Get everything lined up how you want and tighten it up from the rear to the front. I had the same issue with my T5s, just takes a little creativity and lots of patience.

Why would a person do that... And for the pics, use Photobucket.

That looks frickin' killer...

^^^Take this guy's advice.^^^ He knows his stuff. Anyway for a filter, adapter, etc. I went with the Vito's kit on clearance. It includes everything needed to convert from stock and is really inexpensive. I know it's "China stuff" but for the price I couldn't pass it up and so far it's performed great and does it's job just as good as a Pro Flow adapter and K&N filter with Outerwears would. The only thing I might swap out would be a "real" Outerwear instead of the hooker-style pantyhose outerwear that they send. And also +1 on the stock carbs on low end. I can chug mine down low and it never misses a beat. http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=528&cat=295&page=1

Just my opinion but if any of you guys were thinking of stepping up to 530s you may hit up some of us on R1-Forum.com. Normally one of the first things most people do to their bikes is ditch the OEM 530 for a nice, lightweight 520 kit with different gearing. Many of those have barely any use on their OEM 530 chains at all. I'd be hard-pressed to think that a Banshee, while some put down some killer power, would need a 530 as many high end 520 chains are just as strong if not stronger and much lighter in weight. Again, just a thought...

Just got my Pro Armor belly skid and PRM swingarm skid delivered today. Thanks for the pictures and suggestions everyone, one step closer to completion!!!

Exactly how dirty does you guys' Klotz get before you change it? Yes I'm serious...

Lol hey I'm all for it except that the lower part toward the front of the fender looks like crap. Don't really know who or why they put such a goofy sticker kit on it but like I said if it were just flames I don't think I'd mind that much.

I removed the goofy looking stickers from my plastics and they left these "shadow" marks. Not sure exactly what you'd call them but you can't scratch your fingernail over it and feel anything. It's almost as if it's pulled the shine off of the plastics themselves because I put some Scratch-X on the upper flat area of fender shown and it shined back up really nice aside from the marks left from the stickers. What can I do? P.S.- Sorry for the crappy pic, it was the best light I could get.

If they're anything like mine the bolts they sent for the rollers weren't even anywhere near long enough. I'm not very enthused about the ModQuad setup personally. After this stuff wears down I'm replacing with TM Designworks. But to answer your question I think I put mine just the opposite but for no apparent reason really. I didn't know if there was a right or wrong way.

Sounds good. I'd always eyeballed one of those but never could quite pull the trigger. Now onto deciding on a full frame skid.

I know this thread is a bit dated but what do you guys think about the rear skids that cover the sprocket and disc versus the larger ones that cover the lower link as well as the sprocket and disc? Obviously the smaller, more basic skids would be cheaper but is it really worth it to go with the bigger one or no?

Normally when your lever adjustment is maxxed out you know you've either got some significant wear or your clutch plates are wearing thin. On the other hand I would think you could remedy that somewhat by messing with the adjuster that you've been having problems with. If you measured the plates themselves that would tell you a lot about what's going on in general, obviously not in this situation though because its too tight as it is. That's my opinion anyway.

The pressure plate sounds like it's working as it should, or rather the components that move it are functioning properly. If you're really wanting to just buy certain parts then put up an ad in the wanted section and a sentence or two in the shoutbox. I'm sure someone has an adjuster in perfect working order that they'd give to you for the price of shipping. People do it all the time especially with small parts like that. But to answer your question what you need is the stud and nut technically. If you plan on running heavy duty springs in the future though then I'd go ahead and get the pancake bearing adjuster but that's just my preference.