bigblockbanshee

Awesome, thanks for that too. I think I failed to mention my elevation as well. My riding area will be anywhere from 700-3000 ft and my home area is 1500-2500 ft. Hope that doesn't alter the jetting too much.

Thanks, I'm gonna try to make it work as-is so I can get everything broken in to where I'm comfortable with it then I'll start tinkering again. I just really despise that hollow airbox sound but hey that's just me, others may like it. It's just not my taste personally. Good deal, I'll try taking the snorkel off and get a plug reading from there. It reminds me of an old Quadrajet hitting the secondaries lol, just a lot deeper pitch. Glad we're all relatively in the same ballpark on jet size. I think I'm gonna give it a go here in a week or two.

Took the lid off and 'shee runs like a champ. So to put the lid and snorkel back on where should I start, some 220s or 230s maybe?

Got an Edge Evolution on my '04 NBS F150 5.4 3-valve S-CREW. I run the level 2 canned tune most of the time with 87 octane, shift points and firmness altered, and speed correction. If it weren't for being able to tune the transmission and converter too there's no way in hell I'd spend another $320 for that thing. I got 22 mpg twice going down to Pensacola and back with no programmer, just a bone stock truck. Just went down to Cape Canaveral in late February and the best I could muster up was 16 mpg. It took us nearly $400 to go down there and back, financial suicide. They all advertise more fuel mileage but I just don't see how it could be true. In fact I've found it to be the quite the opposite. All of that being said, I think there are much better things you could do to your vehicle aside from wasting money on a programmer. About the only thing mine does now is just look cool and draw attention to unknowing passengers.

Dude that's a sweet looking ride. This is kinda like the old farm or barn stowaways that the muscle car guys dream of, a diamond in the rough. A little soap, water, and elbow grease and that will clean up really nice...

I totally agree but I guess I'm going the long way around towards getting a good baseline lol. The needle clip is in the 4th position, I think. I documented all of the details when I built it but I'll be darned if I can find the papers I wrote... The plugs are weird, they look like you took a brand new plug and dipped it into some fuel/oil and pulled it back out. I've never seen something that runs as clean and crisp but yet doesn't even discolor the porcelain. For all intensive purposes I could spray them with some carb cleaner to clean off the oily film and it would be good as new. This tells me it's an ignition problem so I look more towards the air gap of the pick-up coil. So you're suggesting .017" for the air gap if I'm reading that correctly? I'm about to take the lid off and try it here in about an hour or so, I'll try the choke thing too. I'll run over the electrical too while I'm at it. I read in one of the searches about a parking brake rev limiter or something? I've got an aftermarket clutch perch so all of the parking brake mess is long gone. And on the descriptive part, the best way I could compare it is when I had my old Big Shot kit on my car and would bring the RPM up to purge the stagnant fuel out of the lines it would stumble badly. You're feeding so much extra fuel into it that it can't possibly burn it all and essentially falls flat on it's face. I'm not sure how to describe the sound but just imagine it's like the rev limiter engaging when it transitions from the pilots to the mains. I hope I got that right, that's how I understood it anyway.

You guys talk about the .250 frame and swingarm skids. Where you guys getting this stuff? The Pro Armor frame skid I got was .125, which I thought was really thin, and the PRM swinger skid was .190. As I said the frame skid seems really thin but of course it's braced in 5 areas of the frame and the swinger skid is decently thick but definitely not the .250 that you guys talked about. I sure hope this stuff holds up, it surely wasn't cheap...

Make sure all of the chassis parts are tight but free-moving and grease them if they have a fitting. I'd probably just get a new chain as I don't see one that's at least 7 years old being worth messing with. Change all fluids, i.e. brake fluid front and rear, coolant. May look at changing to braided brake lines. Same as the chain, I don't see the current ones being worth anything and the minute you put pressure on them they could burst and leave you with no brakes. As far as the engine itself, anything that's been sitting for that long should be gone through with a fine-toothed comb. Plan on doing a new top end, new clutch, new gaskets/seals, etc.. The engine will need completely rebuilt. Like I said on the crank, try to find a nice, freshly used one from a late-model 'shee and send it off to have it inspected and possibly welded for the extra insurance mentally. There are several things I could go on and on with but it's only stuff that is mainly common sense and knowledge. Was the quad sitting out in the weather, did it have any fluids in it, what overall condition is it in, any rodents chewing on wiring? Like I said I could go on and on, anymore questions just ask.

I didn't wanna start another goofy "my banshee isn't running right" thread but I'm gonna have to do something here. I've got a good idea of what's going on but I wanna make sure as much as I can before I tear into it. I'd like to have it broken in and ride it this coming weekend and don't wanna be down any longer than I have to be. So, on to the dealio... All I have aftermarket is a set of T5s, K&N-style filter with adapter, Boyesen dual-stage reed petals, stock port, +4 timing, 20cc domes, 280 mains and 25 pilots, airbox with lid and snorkel, nothing else that would affect fueling I don't think. Here's what I've gathered so far... When ripping around in first or second gear it is amazing just slinging dirt and what not. The power comes on really nice like it should so I think the needle is in the right spot. Take it out on the road and try to run it through the gears and anything past about 1/3 throttle is junk. This is where I think it's transitioning from the pilot to the main and it's so rich that there isn't sufficient spark to burn the fuel. The reason for running the lid and snorkel is because I despise that WAAAAAAAAHHHHH sound from the open airbox. It's got plenty of power for me and sounds unbelievable without the annoying airbox noise so I'm not too interested in leaving it off even though I'll have tons more power without it. Plus I'll be riding in and around water so I don't wanna take the chance of having the whole "water in the carbs" issue. So what I'm gonna do tomorrow is take the lid off and run it to see if I'm headed in the right direction and/or if there are any improvements. I'm also gonna look at adjusting the air gap on the pick-up as that could give these symptoms too I'm thinking. The Yamaha manual and Clymer both say .017" but the paper I got with the Chariot plate says to put a piece of spark plug box in between the pick-up and flywheel and tighten from there. This is equivalent to about .020". That extra .003" could have significant effects on mid-high RPM spark IMO. So in short, it runs amazing from idle up to about 1/3 throttle. After that it stops pulling. I know 280s are excessive for having the lid and snorkel but I really didn't think it would be enough to cause it to not even be able to run through the gears. I know this is a lot to read but am I headed in the right direction?

I don't see any way at all that it could be a bad move honestly unless you just don't wanna put any money into it. You never know, you may fix it up and try to sell it to someone that wants to drag race it. I've heard they really like the J-arm frames over the A-arms.

Lol I figured. I'd still take it. I mean at the most you're looking at $5-600 to get everything in working order. That's counting a fresh used crank from here, new top end, any miscellaneous work needed to engine, and some chassis maintenance. After that I'd say if nothing too major is wrong you'd have a decent, good running 'shee. Oh and this is all provided you can do all of the work yourself, i.e. no labor cost.

More pics of girl in your avatar and you will receive an answer...

I'd absolutely love to have an '86 model... Definitely a rare one.

Dude... You're supposed to get your cylinders cut for a boost port coming from the coolant passage. After that you run the Type F in the radiator so it's like direct injection into the cylinder. Geez, don't you people know anything?

Thanks. I ended up just dumping the Klotz anyway. Stupidity got the best of me and I put my nice fresh Klotz in my freshly rebuilt engine and apparently there was some trash in there that I didn't get cleaned out because when I went to drain it there were chunks of stuff all in it. So I got some Valvoline Type F and put in just to get everything broken in and running properly.

I've been riding Windrock, aka Coal Creek OHV Area, since '04 and other than the local private trails it has pretty much been my "ol' faithful" stomping grounds. On most of the said local trails if you get caught you're pretty much "done" if you get the drift so I hit Windrock as much as possible. Just wondering if any of you 'shee riders ever go up that way. I'm sure a lot of people know about it but if you don't here's a link to the club website > http://www.windrockatv2.com/phpBB3/index.php <, and the area site > http://www.coalcreekohv.com/ <. Absolutely awesome place to ride although I've only had my old Sportsman 700 up there (quite a bit) and my cousin's 700 Raptor up there once, never a Banshee. So to say the least I'm completely thrilled about getting to go back for the first time in years. Last I checked it was 76,000+ acres and over 250 miles of trails of every level of riding experience. I haven't been back since they've added the new camping facilities and such. We're planning on going pretty soon so hit me up if you're interested. Chris

Man I've been on this site for a short while and never knew this thread was here so I'll play along too. I've got much better pics of the car as this was the precursor to the avatar you see under my user name, but you get the drift. It's got it's street-shoes on in this pic. I soon put the M/Ts (ET Fronts and 275/50 Drag Radials) back on there as it just didn't look right without them. The 1, well it's just for fun in the twisties. Here's a couple of pics of my rides...

Chariot FTW

May be thread number 1001 on this but it's still a good read. I'm gonna be breaking mine in as soon as the weather clears so this came just in time for me.

Ah ok, for some reason I thought the intake windows were modified too. Pay no mind to me, carry on...