RagunCajun

I'm looking for a set of Cascade CSFX silencers for big bore in frame shearers. I will trade or buy. These are no long made. Id just like a quieter bike. These are BBIF Shearer specific, CSFX for cpi's etc wont work. edit* 5/30/18 I found a set. Thanks for looking!

If i have time today, i'm going measure my gforce (currently Tusk is making them) then compare to what Loco said.

Just because it can, doesnt mean it's best for someone. Mine with a +6 could tractor up levees and go through trails with little effort. But i hated every second of it.

Im thinking there will be no leak down test until after he blows it up if ever.

He said you need to make sure it has no leaks. So make or a buy a leakdown tester and see if it has leaks. Otherwise, you may be chasing your tail until the engine fails. You can search youtube and these forums on how to make one. I think someone on ebay makes them if you dont want to piece one together.

Welcome to the forums. I live in Lafourche parish. Good luck finding a legal place to ride down here. There's the spillway but it sucks for wide open stuff. The mud bikes and side by sides tore everything up. I went last year and i didnt get out of 2nd gear. Stock carbs are fine. Like he said, it should have a jam nut and those work fine. Getting bigger carbs wont solve you not knowing how to work on a bike nor jet a carburetor. It is a pita to learn.

I can find the dimensions of that battery but i see it's over 9lbs. Looks like it's probably the near the size of a riding mower battery. That to me is over kill considering a small r/c car battery will be far light and IMO most importantly a lot smaller.

I just want a battery so it works without the engine off. And i want it to charge with the engine running. The only "bolt on" conversion is JL's.

I need to figure out what kind of rechargeable r/c car battery fits in a small area of the bike that i wont see. Similar to JL's kit. Will the bike recharge the battery like an alternator charges a truck battery?

Preferably a trade for a DC conversion or any 2001 color plastics in near mint condition. Id give them to you for $10 if you could located a set of BBIF CSFX silencer for me for a decent price. I can not find a set of those silencers. My bike is too loud for me. For anyone looking, my clamps while made for BBIF shearers will only work for the right side. The left side hits the frame unless you bend stuff.

Just a heads up, BBIF shearer clamps arent made anymore. But i have a set for sale for the right price

That has nothing to do with what i said.

I'm sure he did. I have the same thing. But that is irrelevant. Check to make sure they fully open with what ever thumb throttle you are using.

How does a cable over come the mechanical limit of the thumb throttle? It is not a problem with the cable. It is not a problem with the adjuster on top the carb's cap.

Make sure your thumb throttle fully open's those big carbs too. My stock one didnt until i modded it. Honda's ones cant without modding/epoxy. ( At least on my bike with 39's )

I searched the forums for the stock banshee axle width. I see 32-34". I currently have an old gforce (tusk) axle. Id like to retain the width but go with the jj&a play axle in the future. Can someone firm how much width id be losing assuming i dont flip the rear wheels? Is the 10lb difference from the play axle to stock or stock to narrower drag axle?

I'm looking forward to hearing your first hand impressions once it's ride able. You've had some fun strong engines in the pass so it will be interesting. Try a stock length swing arm first. Do not get an extended arm. Also, the engine will vibrate a good bit (compared to 4mil stuff i've rode). Put 4 bushings instead of 2 on the engine mounts (engine case to frame). Have extra hardware to mount nerd bars (i broke a couple bolts). Lock tight/anti seize everything! and hold on

Yall are recommending carbs and other engine parts when the shop who's probably done the most 521 servals is doing it and probably has talked with him about it... Interesting.

Yes but i dont think results were released. It was done for controls 521 build. Unless something changed, BBIF snipers made a little more up the face but it wasnt in my best interest to switch from my BBIF shearers. If you call redline up, he will tell you all about that and answer any question you have for the build.

After riding a cub and my serval, id prefer to drag race my serval. If i could only have a banshee with drag ported cylinders, i would not own a banshee. They arent wrong, they just arent IDEAL for some people's needs.

I know who it is.

If he's running a pump, i need to block him on fb. I dont tolerate bs like that. It's implied no pump.

They come on a little later and pull a little longer than t5's and t6's. That's what i noticed on my old set up. They worked fine. Sure it may not be ideal, but toomeys were fun. My bike was more fun all around with t5/t6 pipes. My bike was better in drag races only with cpi's but i swapped trans/tires/gearing for it so it was an unfair comparison.

I did that to my old 30oko's. i cross drilled two holes right after the needle seats. If that's what you mean.

That's why i have what i have. Cheaper than a failure.