RagunCajun

If you don't like a heavy pull, you can do a sling shot and light springs. That's what I been running for many years.

White or black. None of the colors go with each other in the bikes in the picture. Otherwise, that's a nice collection!

With the bandle bars centered, i just line it up by site even. I'm not mr hardcore mx racer so it works for me. I think my camber isnt even so ill bring a angle meter from work this weekend to see. Jack the front off the ground, throw some wd40 or Kroil in the threads. It should be able to be adjusted by hand. But you will need it all on all 4's to properly adjust.

Who sells seals for my round carrier? I've found just the seals on ebay but im not sure the exact size. I ruined one putting my stock swing arm on. I will just change both. Bearings are still fine.

Got a graph of his mx port work? I want to see the curve

What digital tach are you using? I'd like to hook one up with a visible needle but I'm not sure how

http://www.fireball-racing.com/arms.htm click my profile for a bike with that.

For the first start, be sure to take the exhaust plugs out if you have them in the silencers. I know a guy who wondered why his was quiet and didnt want to stay running...

Suspension! And put a stock Flywheel on.

well said

I woudldnt have brakes either if my bike was slow.

I dont know about drag bikes. Only thing i can do in a drag race is lose consistently.

I can lock up front smooth buffed tires too On serious note, i dont know if they have a tiny bit of air in there. I rebled last weekend. Ill try tomorrow or Saturday if i go ride.

Exactly. Mine do not.

Loco and maybe one other member here told me about Cuevro not stopping a lot better. Although it was lighter which is why it's seen on drag bikes. At first, i didnt find my front brakes stop well but i have to keep in mind, i was stopping from 75-80+ mph when last weekend's video was shot. Plus there was tons of grass hitting the rotors and there were no disc shield. They did feel very linear with a lot of control so i was pleased with aggressive riding. I can press the brakes all the way in the front and they wont lock up. Keep in mind, i dont do MX or any brake system demanding riding like a lot of people here. I could get by with 100% stop brakes. I just upgraded since i felt with my power level, it was the smart thing to do. I just looking at my records for the brake pad types: Tusk Brake Pad - Sintered Metal - Front Left - 2006 YAMAHA RAPTOR 700 Part # 1030220026 Tusk Brake Pad - Sintered Metal - Front Right - 2006 YAMAHA RAPTOR 700 Part # 1030220019 I'm not sure which banshee rear pads i have. Probably some cheap ones i had lying in my parts collection. I do need to rebuild my rear caliper. The seals are probably still original. I also still need to go get a custom brake line made for my real locally.

It's got an early yfz450 front maters with steal braided lines that fit my LT arms. Front raptor 700 calipers. All years are the same I think. Rear caliper is stock. From what I read is isn't a big difference in Braking power when going to the cuevro so I didn't. I also have Jds rotors all around with tusk pads. I'm not sure how JDS rotors compare to others out there. Tusk pads are proven and cheap.

If they are small, one can ride in front of you. Have them wear shocks, shoes and jeans just in case they touch the pipes. I refuse to ride any young person on my bike though.

top of the page is a banner for forum sponsors. Doesnt show up in mobile phone mode though.

I feel bad i sold my old yfz450 shocks/arms for the cost of shipping years ago. I should of threw them in the scrap pile to prevent that cancer from spreading.

for my BBIF's, redline since i bought the pipes from him and i needed a chain and other parts at that time. Neither do it. I just take idle videos. My bike isnt even running. I dub sound from other bikes over my video.

The records are pretty unfair since they are so far out of reach for other pipe owners.

I fought finding ones for my BBIF shearers. Ending up having to use a vendor on here. All the hardware stores has something CLOSE but fought like hell to get them installed. Ones from a vendor went on right away with zero problems. I just put a bit of grease to ease her on it.

Those two were some of the few that i used all OEM hardware on. Everything else i basically used the stainless stuff from alloy boltz. I just didnt feel comfortable using stainless stuff for those two mounts. I also chased the OEM bolts with a die nut too.

Going flip my elkas when i get home.....on my riding mower. If it works, doing the same for my weed eater. Stihl > all.

Hahaha. It took me a little while to get it.