RagunCajun

The big tanks look hideous. However, youll need it. Id keep that one. Id prefer to see my fuel level just looking at it. That engine is going to drink fuel!

You did ask about power but when i've been there and appreciated full suspension upgrades (with good shocks and a-arms) to be superior over little mods that give you a little more power. If you are set on power, id get the cylinders ported when it's time for a top end.

Because they hit the frame on one side. Good for you two who could run them. I guess the pipes vary from set to set. I got the clamps from redline and he specifically told me that would hit the frame. So that's odd you two also had BBIF shearers but it worked.

I like how you can use the cascade clamps on his pipes. I cant even use them on one of my BBIF shearers.

I assume he has a stock length swing arm. Why recommend a longer swing arm which makes it handle worse and will hurt traction?

Edit* i missed you said you had a-arms. Id get good shocks.

I dont see anything wrong with the other guys video It's basically what i do. Adjust until the Allen screw is tight, then back it off a tad. Then make sure i have a little play in my lever then make sure I have adjustment left in the lever for the distant future.

How about you post a video of you setting it first. I'm not going flip my bike on the shifter side and make a video when it's 30° outside.

^what? Understanding how it works and not worrying about the arrow like suggested means you shouldnt run into the problem of running out of throw or travel of disengagement.

Thanks but i couldnt delete my post so i edited it to say that. A person should know how skilled someone is especially when giving carb advice. Just look at all the terrible advice given on FB. All i did was go up a size or two from what it was chassis dynoed on. Sure i'm not making the power i couldnt but we all know for my idle videos, it's fine. I hope you got that 521 ported OP. And if you did, the person ported it should be able to give you a good slightly rich starting point. Hell, a good vendor you got the jugs from should be able to give you a starting point.

Adjust the center adjuster in the middle of the clutch. THEN you adjust the lever on the perch. IMO the arrows do not matter unless you are using 100% stock clutch components. Even then, i still wouldnt use them. You need to understand how to adjust the center bolt to set the gap.

I run 180 mains in my 39's. I like it a little rich. I usually dont touch my carbs all year around. I'm also just remembered im not qualified to give advice on this stuff due to ignorance. Keep that in mind.

IMO the 521 wont get hot at all in tight stuff. The reason is you wont be on the power band nearly at all. If you will be, your idea and my idea of tighter trails are very different. I would suggest monitoring your bikes temperature before doing anything. IMO, you dont need to make a solution for a problem that doesn't exist.

I've never seen a company closed so long for the winter. https://prm-atv.com/closed/ I think they have stopped making the banshee bumpers i have. And yes i know the axle company is RPM.

I emailed them months ago and they said they would need to make a big quantity to justify bringing the fabricator in. They had no plans to make any more. However, i heard Dave Moore racing makes them so i will be contacting them when i have cash in hand as they will be more expensive than a used set of CSFX silencer.

Id try 5psi and go from there. The 4 snows are kinda like pro wedge 2's. We warned, if you make a good bit of power, they actually arent too good. My CST Pulse hook much harder than my pro wedge 2's. And my CST Pulse are much heavier and are on a steel wheel vs my pro wedge 2's being on a thin aluminum wheel. Go figure. If i was serious about getting the most out of my bike, id toss the steel wheels and my gforce axle in the trash in favor for a JJ7A light weight solid play axle and some light aluminum wheels. But, that isnt needed right now. It's hard to see here but the tires just ballon and the bike doesnt move forward. The +6 swing arm is working against everything for acceleration (read as traction) though.

I been reading oem are best. Now most run 200w stator with a DC conversion? OK then.

I emailed him but didnt get a response. I will call him when im ready to lay down $600. Right now im still in race truck mode. I have no idea. Bought not built

I see that one of the performance truck forums im on. It's is damn near impossible for people to try something new or even accept something different works. If they made some big bores, id try a set. But i wouldnt give up my shearers for sure. Id just switch back and forth.

When I think of low end, I think of power before the power band. SLP pipes just shift the power band much earlier. I wouldn't mind a heavier Flywheel on my bike. Then again it doesn't need one. You mostly see that on two stroke dirtbike to get traction and/or tame the hit.

I have a big serval and it's been years since i road a 450/400ex but if i remember correctly, the 4 strokes were far more snappy, fun, easy and had usable power. So id recommend a 4 stroke for slow trail riding. My 100hp+ engine is an absolute waste for fast riding in tight stuff.

My new alien gear holster wraps around me like that. A little less since im a 35" waste. But it's far more comfortable than my old small gcode holster. Being able to adjust the cant on it is nice. You may go through a many holsters before you find something you like. If you have some friends who carry, try theres for a week or two. Mine are clip on but i'm pretty sure loops are an option.

We have water jets and mills at work here. But most would not pay our shop time. So give it time. Good fab/machine work is not cheap or fast.

Get whatever holster you think is fine as long as the trigger is covered. See what you like and dont like about the gun and/or holster after carrying for a long time. As for the size of it, the stopping power, the recoil etc. Whatever you have is fine. Practice. Learn to use it. Learn your laws. Pistols in general suck for stopping power.

I'm looking for a set of Cascade CSFX silencers for big bore in frame shearers. I will trade or buy. These are no long made. Id just like a quieter bike. These are BBIF Shearer specific, CSFX for cpi's etc wont work. edit* 5/30/18 I found a set. Thanks for looking!