RagunCajun

My mistake, the way i read your above post made me think +2 was what you will go with. So now with that out the way, now it's time for your next upgrade. It never ends. But that's a good thing.

So you asked what swing arm, most said stock (or shorter) and you will do what you want. I get it. Enjoy the +2.

I'm just going to ramble on here. So lets say your suspension is fine but you want to keep the front down. The typical solution is to get a longer swing arm. Then the reason the front will stay down will probably be because now the rear tires are spinning. Since they are spinning, you arent putting all that power down accelerating as quickly as you could. Then you have to figure out the perfect balance between swing arm length, tires, tire pressure, lock up clutch pressure (if you have one) and the list goes on. And all that changes for each terrain. For those reasons, I went back to a stock length from a +6. It would be very expensive and time consuming to play with all lengths of swing arms, sprocket combos, tire types etc to see what works. I'm just thinking out loud.

While i agree, i dont feel it's worth it for that. It's not like it needs to be done in the middle or before a ride all the time. Im glad this was brought up. This is a very important point. I forget about this because I grinded my damn heal guard mounts off.

It really sucks when you stretch the bike and it wont hook for crap and handles worse. It also takes up more space in the shed and truck bed which I also didn't care for. So are you going to spend $900+ on a fireball arm the same length as stock just for looks?

The longest i'd go is stock length for and i quote "mostly seasonal rd and trails no major jumping"

flitz polish or mothers. you can look on youtube on how people hand polish stainless steel revolvers to see how to do it. basically wax on, wax off. over and over and over... I did my shearer pipes this passed weekend and attempted to do my clutch cover but i gave up on the clutch cover because i didnt want to take it off.. I would assume 0000 wool is too aggressive but i will try it on a part that isnt visible to see.

I went with turbo chassis due to their lack of logo on the entire thing. I noticed the chain was too loose last weekend so i will go make a ride and see if the two bolts holding the carrier is enough. The popular fireball racing swing arm has 4 bolts.

JL egineering makes a $170 kit with a battery and mount. I had two batteries ruined so far with 2-4 hours of run time. I assume it's something wrong on my end. However, i will leave it as is without the battery and it will be fine. I got the DC conversion because i got tired of blowing LED's. I have not blown an LED since. https://www.jlengineering.org/dc-.html

the gas cap vent line.

take that air breather off before you lean out the engine.

To me, no. Which is why i built a bigger pump gas engine from the start.

I haven't rode my 521 serval in sand. However, I recommend using the swing arm you have now and see how you like it. That's free. I went strait to a +6 and absolutely hated it. I went back to a stock length round house carrier swing arm. I didnt like it because all the bike did was spin until 4th or 5th. I assume with sand and paddles, it's totally different. It was for me with my old weak 4 mil and paddles in sand.

Use the swing arm you have now. If you don't like it, I would try to borrow someone's.

I went with a budget set up 2-3 years ago. I went with fireball racing Lt arms and elk stage 3 shocks which i think is a tad higher tier than their legacy these days. At the time, Alba wasnt too popular but things have changed since then. I find my bike rides rough. However, i dont have preload settings optimal and i have nothing to compare to. I will be sending out to be reworked by another company sooner or later.

I would try your current length swing arm before ordering a +4 and a new chain. It's only 15 hp

I'm looking for a transmission for a banshee. I want to do another overide and I'm keeping my current pro mod for a spare in case I want to go back. I do not have a core and neither does the person who will do it. I need it shipped to 70394.

A local had fmf pipes on his flotek ported stock cylinders and it as a very fun bike. I'd put money into suspension instead of new pipes. Or just save your money.

Ride the other bike and see if you want to trade. I worry about fun, not resale value.

Ambient was in the 80's two weeks ago and I did some high speed runs and my Vapor said mid to low 170's. I have a 521 serval, China radiator and I think I have a non oem impeller. I find it takes a decent amount of time to warm up and hit hit high 160's.

I would considering waiting until the PV cylinders are realeased. My bike above is the blue curve on the dyno chart. I dont understand the difference between in feel a PV and non521 serval. So what ill do is ill call redline later this year and have Cameron explain the difference in feel and ride ability to me like he did before he built the current engine for me.

If you'd like to share info on them, I'll add it. Most of the info I posted is from a lot of messeging people, builders and shops. Looking at a post on the hq fb group, looks like I need to add chubby cubbys

Yes a cheap ebay one I'm sure there has to be better led tail lights available. Now that I know the conversion and wiring works well, I am not afraid to waste money on something more expensive. The ebay headlights suck too. I'll get some rigid pods if I ride at night more.

Wouldn't pump gas be bad since it will probably be wot all the time for a long time therefor be more prone to detonate? If I remmeber right, I can't do that with mine. I asked.

I installed my JL engineering dc conversion a month or two ago. It works great with my led headlights and brake light. I floated the ground on my stock stator. There's no way in hell I'm using anything but an oem stator on my banshee. John at JL also provided excellent communication if that matters.