RagunCajun

I understand where it makes power and how much is important but to someone like me who doesn't understand how it translates to seat of the pants, it is not a big deal to me. Which I explained in the quoted posted you quoted me on.

That's my engine on his chassis dyno. It's a very fun engine that makes just dumb power for the playing around I do. Cam was told I did not and still don't care about dyno numbers. I don't understand how dyno numbers feel when riding. People see it did 109/57 peak and flip out but they don't realize how nasty the tq is under the curve. The mid range is just insane. I went on a safe pump gas because I ride very little and didn't want to mess with race fuel anymore. I absolutely love my engine. Give redline a call and discuss your wants and needs. That helped me determine what I wanted. Since you are doing pavement stuff, I'd assume mph matters. It doesn't to me but I have to open it up every now and then just for the hell of it. My bike with 14/41 did 92mph a few weekends ago and I didn't hold it wot long at all. I short shifted 5th bad and pulled 6th for about 4 seconds. It's turning 22" cst pulse tires. I have a 15t and 16t front sprocket but my bike is geared for 1st-4th fun so it's fine.

I finally got to bring the bike to my folks house yesterday. The field was dry enough. I decided to open it up. I didn't hold it long wot but it hit 92mph with 14/41 gearing. I don't plan to change gearing nor tires. The bike handles well, hook well enough for its power and the gear spread is nice. However the front end tends to be a little lite when going over bumps at 75+. With that said, I'm very glad I did full suspeison and freshened up the whole thing for a more stable and safer experience. I am looking into a better pad compound and perhaps swapping out my Jds rotors for something better. I want more stopping power. I'm going to bleed my brakes a little more to see if by some chance I have a tiny air bubble left.

I didnt weigh it. It's very little even with the electric box thing it comes with. It's not like a lawn mower battery that used to be more common.

Installed the JL engineering DC conversion(floated my stock stator), ebay brake light kit(works with my yfz450 front master). I found engine has been on 5.5* of timing. Always thought it was 4* for some reason. Went back to 5* when i put it back together. I hear Rigid makes really good LED spot pods but ill try mine first. I really dont ride at night. I'm not sure what's next for this bike besides wiring up the brakes lights to work with the rear brake. Here's a boring video https://youtu.be/greJTyq_dsw edit* next addition will be a lockup cover. Id hate for the round insert to come loose AGAIN and ruin riding for the day.

Seems 521's are the new 4 mils. I'm glad he's getting more business. Wonder if me mentioning it helped. Got four new lights in from ebay today. Just the same Cree headlights I have in it now. Still waiting on my JL dc conversion. I found my LED brake light in my parts bin so that hopefully fits with my pmr bumper.

Got pics or videos? there's not many engines like this around that get posted.

I finally ordered the JL d/c conversion. I will do that, put on rear brake light, wire it all up so i can have head and brake lights. I think i had my harness built for it and accept my yfz450 front brake switch. I had the harness built to accept a light bar but i do not like how it blocks air flow. Plus i dont really ride at night much. and it would be hideous. I also widened my rear one more spacer since i now have a little trailer and dont have to squeeze it into my truck. I also had to heat up my rear plastics so the stingers would stop pushing them out. The only thing i want to do next is an all black gripper seat. I slide too easy on my current seat cover when i crack the throttle open.

That has to be the best sounding pipe out there. Bike seems very responsive. Id try out a set if my engine was small enough. My favorite part of the videos is when you can see your shadow of you holding the camera facing backwards. Awesome! DMC needs to make some big bore pipes!

Grinding bolts to me is easy but id have them send you the correct hardware. You could possibly hurt the what they are screwing into and that isnt work it imo.

I often think about ryan griff's old 10mil serval. That engine had hundreds of hard hours. Ran fine.

I forgot what brand i ordered but they were never serviced. I put all new bearings and seals with a shit ton of grease. It seems like of grease is what kills these things. No so much as a particular bearing brand being sub par. But that's my opinion which isnt proven.

I've been slowly heating up my rear plastics to clear the exhaust stingers. It's about the best idea i have to keep rear plastics and CSFX exhaust. I also installed a carbon fiber clutch cover insert from JM industries. I was under the impression i wouldnt like the look, but i do. I guess i'm changing my ways of what i think looks good.

Got the stingers and silencers back from powder today. I'll have to get a heat gun and relieve where the stingers hits the rear fender when the come out the frame. Sorry if the pictures are too big.

Cuvero racing thumb throttle installed. Love it so far. Came home today to some brand new white full bores. My wife is going drop off my CSFX stuff tomorrow for powder. Finally cosmetics will be almost done.

If budget doesnt matter, isnt there higher teir shock/shock builders out there? I personally wouldnt need that due to my low level of skill but OP may.

Returning the Chariot throttle (opens up to a 41mm carb) today, orderd a Cuervo racing thumb throttle. I do not like how much far forward i have to push the lever to fully open my 39's. I also did not like the wobble in the shaft that lever attaches to that goes into the housing. I spoke with Jerry of Chariot about this. He was cool about it and even offered an ever swap for the more expensive thumb throttle. But i will just get a refund. That's very stand up of him. The Cuervo racing thumb throttle opens up a 64mm carb so it should require less thumb lever movement range to open my 39's vs Chariots one that can open a 49mm. I talked to the owner of Cuvero racing and his one is less sloppy. His also does not have a logo on top from what i can see which is a huge plus. I do not like logos of companies on my bike which is why i had the cool head on my engine black anodized black with no logos. Still no word on my full bores. They never charged me for it yet nor provided tracking. It's a small mom and pop shop so no big deal. Ill give them a full week to charge/ship. I plan to bring my stingers and silencers this weekend to the powder coater. Does anyone know the difference between regular and light springs in carbs like my 39's? Id like to make sure which mine are if they are not light springs, ill order a set.

I browsed the thread and found a local place that may insure mine for an agreed value. Awaiting on word back. free bump!

Fullbores are on the way. I was able to get in touch with them a couple hours ago. I ordered a set in white and non-race cut. They should ship tomorrow at the latest. Hopefully ill have them this weekend. I raised my idle this weekend so it idled and synced my carbs. I think i went in nearly 1.5-2 turns in to raise the idle. I find that's a lot of turns for such a small idle rpm raise. The bike was noticeably more snappy in lower rpms around my sub division. Looks like my chariot throttle will be here tomorrow according to tracking.

Full suspension (the best you can afford) before any power mods.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162710045956 Convert to DC and get a set of those.

Narrowing the axle is going to make handling suffer. 4 snows and pro wedge 2's are a good tire to slap on for some strait line fun. I still have a set of pro wedge 2s in my attic. My current engine over powers them though now.

So why not set up the bike to hook instead of adding power that will make it spin even more? Be careful not to cross the line between a fun bike and a bike more suited for strait line only fun like i did.

Thanks i was just making sure it didnt need to be a sealed system. That seems unsafe but yall were talking about pressure.

Ill ask this here since it's IMO relevant. On the top of the radiator near the cap, there's an small exit. I have that line zip ties to my frame so it goes on the ground. Is that ok? I think years ago the bike came with an overflow. I just want to make sure that's ok.