RagunCajun

Has anyone done bigger than a 10mil serval yet?

Id like to see footage of the race. I used to have severe problems with getting off the line when i was bolt on's. It had a lot to do with my lack of rider skill and a little with my crap tire choice. If i could go back in time, id tell myself do full suspension and aftermarket LT arms before a 4mil set up. Years ago, i did a nice 4mil on race fuel with stock suspension. While it did spank butt, it beat me up. I dont see why stock carbs wouldnt work just fine. Dont smaller carbs have better/smoother low end response...? I ran 30 oko's on my 4mil and it was fine.

Either this is the first time i've seen this or i chose to ignore it over the years. Good post.

So basically measure ride height and have it set up for that exact bike rather than copy someone else. Outstanding. This is what I did for my truck.

Good seeing you here Hilarious. I hope you are doing well and still riding! Bike idles now. I cleaned the filters and raised the idle via the idle screws a half turn. I'm going to raise it a little more and make sure the carbs are synced. It's been a little while since i synced them. edit* Chariot thumb throttle on the way and awaiting a return call from Fullbore.

It still idled fine last summer in these temps. So it leads me to think that's not it. Ill start by cleaning the air filters first before i adjust the idle screws more.

I think cam put easier springs in my 39's. It isnt bad at all. The only bad part is my short stuby fingers. I have to release my full grip to push the lever in from idle. Ill be getting a chariot one of these days.

Here's oil rubbed bronze. https://imgur.com/s6WeeSt Gotta be careful with certain gun metals. It can look like primer.

The bike currently idles too low all of a sudden. I turned the idle adjustment about 2/5th of a turn in and it didnt make a difference. The fuel is fresh as well as the plugs. My plan is to clean the air filters and outter wears since i dont remember the last time i cleaned them. Any thing else i can look for? I've never really had to mess with the idle on my bikes. I just tune the carbs and it's usually fine for good. The weather is a hell of a lot warmer now.

I kept removing material in the throttle body housing until the arm inside had enough throw to fully open the carbs. There's one guy on the hq group on FB that says his opened 39's. Refused to take a few minutes to pop the top for the thumb throttle housing cover open to show me what he did to make it work along with refusing to remove the air filters to show me the carbs fully open.

Welcome to the forum. BTW all your picture links are the same.

Have you tried it on 39's? Mine didnt work.

If you can do it, do it. Is it needed, no.

Can you post the pics here of how you do it? We have some vblocks and a granite table at work. I figure with the bearings on the v-blocks, i can use our test dial to see run out. The test dial measures in .0001" increments. We use them to check run out on some lathe work.

I use this. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/726/3040/Tusk-Low-Pressure-Tire-Gauge

10mil is the new 4mil. Driveline makes some popular cylinders now.

20" oem honda tires on a 521....ok then.

I still recommend csfx silencers. It makes my current set up more pleasant to ride. It used to make my ears rings. It's a matter of personal preference. However with my old small bore cpi's, with some good packing, it wasnt bad at all with the CPI silencers.

That does look clean. I assume my cylinders are made different since mine clear even with billet bowls.

Well the time is now. The side insert fell off just now. I was wondering what was touching my foot. I'm glad i didnt lose it. It did end the day of riding but that's no big deal. I will JB weld the inside a little bit so fluid doesnt leak out. At least the old trans fluid looked great! https://imgur.com/QwpNu0a Off topic, i love this freakin engine!!!

Sold as of 7/10/18

Talked to cam. It's just burning off the oil etc from my putting around like a pansy for so long. I should of talked to him first. At least it just cost me some time and not an engine. Everything was fine because this is the first time i putt putted many times over and over riding around the neighbor hood. Then i went to my folks house on their land and opened it up. I've done it before but i used to ride the bike WOT a lot so the oil in the exhaust never had time to collect. It makes perfect sense then. The cooling system was perfectly fine. At least the 50/50 is out and i can run distilled and water wetter now that the cool weather is done. Ill get some video this weekend if the field is dry. I'm curious to see what she can do in 6th with stock sprockets and a mpg/gps phone app. I opened it up once Saturday though the gears. I forgot just how stupid powerful the engine is.

Both cylinders started smoke white very bad. It had maybe 2-3 minutes of run time on it at most once it started smoking. I putt putted back to the front of the property when i seen it. The coolant looked clean and didnt look like it was missing any. I took the head off. I didnt see any orings torn. Pistons and plugs looked good. I did notice on one stud, it looked like it was wet when i took the nut off. Since it's both cylinder, that means it has to be an oring on the head correct? If it was one side, that would mean it's a crank seal and its burning trans fluid which it is not. I did throw on those new silencers and it's the first time i got to open the bike up. I dont think it's burning excel oil from the packing but I dont know. No video or pics of smoking. 17.9 hours total on the engine. Good times.

When my clutch slipped, it just reved and didnt do anything. But that's an extreme case. The only thing i do is make sure the vent is higher than the fuel level. Nothing leaks besides a tiny bit from the clutch cover when you take it off..

See below. To add to this, I didnt notice anything in my type of riding which is slow what what you do sully. You do ride in sand which causes way more stress/chances to slip under load than I do though. I went from 3hd/3oem springs after 5+ years to 6 oem springs and the only thing i noticed was the lighter clutch pull. I refuse to use heavy springs again. I also went to all the weight in my sling shot to reducing it two different times. I noticed no difference. Perhaps the clutch pull was a little tougher near or at WOT but it was not night and day. I still had to let off a moment to upshift which is why i reduced weight in the first place. I would get used to launching your bike as is then drop down to 6 oem springs to see if you slip too much off the line in the sand. In dirt/grass like i do, youd be fine. I make more power than you and i run oem springs. However, like i said, i do not ride in sand with paddles. You will have to experiment. Just tip the bike over on the flywheel side and adjust whatever. Due to my lack of riding ability + my stock swing arm, i want my tires to brake loose out the hole. It saves me from wheelieing. But once im going, i want no slip. I'm actually going to play with the weight in mine so i can launch in higher gears than 1st consistently but im afraid to toast the clutch. That's why i always had a ton of weight.