Derpy Drifter

I’ve always run 10w-30 conventional motor oil and never had issues with the clutches sticking, and no damage to the transmission. I’m considering switching to 50/50 ATF and heavy duty hydraulic oil on the new motor and clutches. I work with hydraulics regularly in my career and that mixture proves to be good. With all the detergents in ATF keeping things clean and the high film strength of the hd hydraulic oil. Anybody have input to add on that? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Good info I didn’t know that about the long strokers. Might come in handy when my 521 is running in a few weeks. Also I totally agree on the starting fluid. Good way to wipe out the bearings. I’ve always used a plastic water bottle filled with 2 stroke gas and a hole in the lid for those situations. Muccchh safer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Leave it stock for now, the issue to me sounds electrical after reading the whole post, but the fewer variables the better. I highly recommend buying a brand new harness from Kevin Gallindo aka South Texas Banshee. I have one and the quality is great and price is awesome. He’s on eBay and Facebook. Either that or completely unwrap your harness and get rid of anything non essential to the motor running. But honestly for 100ish bucks, buy one of Kevin Gs harnesses and save a big headache. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah well, we’ll see I guess. I’m more than likely gonna buy the big bore shearer in frames that Tricked Carbine has with tax return in the next month. Unless somebody else has a better deal but I doubt it. But honestly, at this point I kind of want to run the FMFs for a minute just to see how bad they are compared to real pipes. Just for shits and giggles. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Well, maybe I’m wrong. I don’t know. All I know for sure is I got clocked at that speed and the math says that’s the rpm it turned. And I know that it was only the third or fourth time running it out that hard before the pistons and bearings exploded. I apologize for my ignorance on pipes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, it does. Far enough apart to keep the pistons and head from getting too friendly with each other though. I don’t recommend everyone do all the stupid shit I’ve done with these motors but that is one that works, reliably even. Not saying it’s guaranteed, obviously it’s a good idea to check your squish whenever changing parts in the top end whether it’s a gasket, jug, piston or head. Make of it what you will Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah it’s probably one of those little stress things you squeeze when you’re dealing with ignorance. That’s what I thought it was for sure Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. I had +2 timing. And at that particular time I was running an eBay top end kit before I decided to put money into it and buy real shit. I actually ported the cylinders myself, had no idea what I was doing yet, just hogging shit out lol. It sounds like bullshit but I swear it worked. Part of the proof I was turning that many rpm is both pistons and wrist pin bearings exploded on me. Here’s pictures of the destruction. Hard to see but the bottom end was so full of chunks and shit it wouldn’t even turn over anymore. Also not sure if kawa was talking about me but I did that too, and shaved the head. I found out the hard way that you can only shave the stock head up to about 160psi before you break into the entry coolant passage, the other 10psi to get to 170 came from shaving the top of the cylinders. And obviously you have to re-cut the relief in the head for the piston to not smack it. I did the clay test to find my squish and all that. It made a lot of power on that setup for me just googling shit and trying crap old hot rodders I know told me. Would’ve liked to dyno it, pulled the front wheels at the top of third when the powerband kicked in. Again I know it sounds like bullshit but why would I lie, and it’s not like I’m saying it would compete with my 521. I’m just saying it was some pretty damn fast garbage lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FMF golds.. yes I know I’ve been thoroughly informed they’re junk but that’s what the math says. I was clocked at 97.7mph with 14/44 sprockets and 20 inch tires. My trail tech vapor said 97.9mph, which bring .2mph off at that speed is pretty impressive I feel Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ran 170psi on 93 octane 32:1 for a long time before I went with the 521cc kit. Never had any issues with pinging or detonation, and I was turning 12-13k rpm. I calculated that based on speed, tire size and gearing. Have you guys had problems with it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No you can do the whole top end in the bike. Just pull the plastics and gas tank off. Also you can delete the base gasket and just use RTV black or gray. It gives you a little more bottom and top end compression. Enough to feel a little extra kick in power, and I’ve never had any problems with it. Just clean both surfaces with brake clean on a towel and use a thin layer of RTV. But honestly like they said that is a nothing leak. You can see if it even affects the way it runs by spraying starting fluid at it while idling, it’ll either rev up or bog down if it affects it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got 72mm bore 10mil super serval cub cylinders with a clean up port already done. I did the port match on the case myself. I gotta say, from looking at these cylinders thoroughly, I don’t think there’s much room at all for porting. I could be wrong though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We like to say that at my work. “I’m not qualified to help you with that. I don’t make enough for that!” Haha. Anyway though I’d rather be a tad rich too, makes for easier starting and personally gives me a little more peace of mind on such an expensive set of pistons and domes. Plus I run Champion RN2C plugs, which seem to be very clean burning. I’ve knowingly ran them a bit too rich for a decent amount of time and they weren’t even close to fouling up. Unlike the NGK BR8ES plugs I use to run, they seem to foul up easy. Just my opinion Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ahh. I knew of the fluid recovery part but I guess I assumed for it to blow past the radiator cap, it must’ve began overheating. I see I was wrong there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LOLOLOLOLOL that has me rolling. Buddy of mine was talking about beats headphones while back and said you know it should be beats by brown Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk