RagunCajun

damnit i wanted that grill. ah well thank you anyway If you have some handlebars too for cheap, ill take a look.

how much shipped to my door for the twist throttle w/cable? i been looking for one. zip is 70394 Also, is it a 1/4 twist? I am kinda only looking for one with a 1/4 twist just like my dirtbike has or something really close.

wait so i can run the cheap crap from walmart. I wish ida knew that long time ago. I agree, oils at bike shops are too expensive.

If the slides were completely closed, then the bike wouldnt start much less idle. Screw the idle screws ALL the way in(dont use a ton of force, just a tad bit snug), then back it out 1/4 turn. I zip tied the thumb throttle open before i did that. Your bike should idle. The screws keep the slides from going down too far. oh yeah tighten up the nut on the idle screw once you back out the screw 1/4 turn. It should rest flush/flat against where it touches assuming you filed down the area like u were suppose to. The screw part on the carb tops do not control idle. You use them to sync your carbs.

I use the honda hp in the red bottle just because it has a pointed "top" that doesnt require me to have a funnel. There's also a marker on the side of the bottle. As for much to use, it's stamped by the dip stick and specified in you Clymer which every banshee owner should have.

i think any premix oil you find at a cycle shop will work great when mixed properly. I use klotz supertemplate or whatever it's called. I refuse to use amsoil dominator anymore because it looks a coating on the inside of the engine. Plus, i love the smell of castor oil. As with all threasd like this, to each his own. :ohmy:

if you still have the grill for sale, id like to see a picture.

new at yamaha of troy, $178.46.

i have rear and front lowering blocks. They blow ass and make it handle like shit. the rear makes the rear suspension seem not even there. if i remember correctly it had a couple inches of travel with it on.

Bought some stuff from BansheeDan on here. He shipped very quick and delivered what he said. He also kept in contact with me and asnwered any questions i asked.

There's also the insane cost to build a bike that can handle and most importanlty use the power it makes.

I guess im the only one that says the banshee should be losing. I used to lose with bolt ons. 450's hook up so well offroad too from a dig. Now from a roll i used to be a little quicker. If your bike is running well i personaly wouldnt tinker with it. I would accept it's slower. Then id save for a port job and supporting mods You wanna beat em, go ported. Then even if you have a shitty start, miss a gear etc, youll still pull on him and pass him :ohmy:

I wouldnt worry about HP numbers. Just make sure you have the power where you want it and youll be happy. That's what i did. Some love drag ported stuff and all but i love my all around bike :biggrin:

it's gotta be traction. I have one hell of a time bringing my front end up due to no traction. I found letting the clutch go fast while barely moving in 2nd gear meanwhile slamming your ass down on the see works very well(i got the video to prove it). Do what ya can to get it up I find getting it up is harder than balancing

no i didnt check the coolant level. It might not be leaking in the cylinder but im not sure. The symtoms make sense so i will see. If it's not a leak, then it's something else. Either way ima keep trying till it's fixed.

naaa i called denny of flotek(who ported my juggs) and talked to him. He said check it among other things, and viola! It's gonna take till monday to get the new orings in cuz i order it through FAST. Ima try to plan a trip to the spillway for Sunday the 19th. I was gonna go this sunday but i dont think i wanna bring the 250 out there. You can keep that stator now kb

found the problem. messed up o-ring on the head. it seems to be leaking coolant in the juggs. easy fix. cant wait to get her ripping again. thanks for lookin people

Would a regular volt meter from radio shack work? If so, how i use it? black clamp as a ground and red probe in the cab and kick her over and see what shee reads which should be....12 volts? Also what's acceptable?

Well i put the 330 mains and moved the needle clip one notch closed to the pointed end. the bike ran much much strong and better. The plugs look a hell of a lot better too. The idle was too low but a little adjusting of the air screw and idle screw and shee have a very reliable low idle. Everything was going good, i went rip for about 10 min. But it killed on me. I looked in the tank, i was very low. I switched tovreserve. I could see the lines starving for fuel. I ended up having to be towed back to my house after walking a mile to get my dad. My bike misses like a son of a bitch like it's out of fuel. It will rev fine but only with the clutch in. Any load and it misses again likes it out of fuel. Plugs still look awesome though. Better than yesterday! I'm very certain i have trash in my tank or something. I was told there's a mesh screen by the petcock so i bet it's full of trash. I'll remove my tank and clean everything and see what shee does.

Correct me if im wrong but i dont think you are suppose to use the idle screws to adjust the sync. They are called idle screws and they only adjust the idle. the more you screw it in ,the higher the idle is. I have a low idle because there's less chance of the throttle sticking. With that said, this is how i synced my carbs. Perhaps i did it wrong because the directions were shitty. Oh wait, they didnt come with directions. Jeff, you might wanna put a little printed paper in the boxes to tell us newbies how to sync them up Anyways, i ziped tied the throttle open a little(still at low rpms) then i put the tool on one side. Then the other. I adjust the lower side till it matched side that was high at first. I released the throttle from the zip tie reved it a bit. Then held the throttle with a zip tie to a different throttle position but still low rpms to check and see if it kept sync. It did. It felt better all around the rpm range but it could all be in my head. I also kept a big fan infront of the bike to cool her off. :biggrin: Make sure you have some play in your cable as well. When you turn your handle bars, the throtle shoudlnt move(open/close) unless you press the thumb throttle.

jeep man, I dont foul plugs. Never fouled one since i done all the engine work. As for lack of fuel, it's a possibiliy for sure. I thought if id let the bike sit for a while even with it turns off for a few min, wouldnt the bowls fill back up? I did that and it still misses. But like ya said jet mech, it could be my lines and pet cock. I will be going through everything said one by one. That way i rule out all possibilies. BTW as for the running rich on the plug pictures....the bike seemed to be lacking a tad bit of power on the top when it wasnt cutting out. Definently way too rich.

mine did that. realized the choke tube wasnt on. ::

Sounds good. I'm gonna drop down my mains to about a 330, and richen(one closer to the point) my needle clip one notch. It might be loading up from getting too much fuel. Althought that would mean i needa lean out the needle. Ah well, ill do what i was told and see. With that said, i dont know why it only starts to miss on top when it gets warm. Like you said, when it cools down, i can make a couple passes before it does it again. Makes sense if it was over heating but hell, i got my mains up so high plus im at 40:1. And people ride their shees much much much harder than i do mine and they are fine so that rules out over heating. Unless my impeller is shot, ill check that as soon as i get my shift kit stuff in, ill take off the clutch cover. Which reminds me, i needa go buy some more engine ice. Hell, ima just get some regular antifreeze and use that till i figure this out, that way i dont keep wasting engine ice. $$$ I really dont see how i could be overheating because im running such a big main. I'll let you know when i figure it out because i wont give up. Im going home right after work tomarrow and mess with the carbs then beat on it so it heats up super quick haha.

The fuel flow seems a little rough getting to the carbs but it doesnt seem like a problem. You could be on to something though. Here's an engine shot from the other day. http://www.2sly4.us/rc/codys_stuff/MyBansh...0shot7-1-07.JPG You can see it goes under the boost bottle and it has to climb back up to "t" then off into the carbs. Ill have to check this out. Ill get it really hot again then look at the fuel lines to see if i see it's getting fuel. As for the petcock, it just unscrews off?

Naa im the only one around with a shee for the most part. Do i have to get a new stator or maybe CDI and replace them to see if one of those is the problem? Sounds pricey.