RagunCajun

Naa im the only one around with a shee for the most part. Do i have to get a new stator or maybe CDI and replace them to see if one of those is the problem? Sounds pricey.

i did a plug chop on one plug: http://www.2sly4.us/rc/codys_stuff/MyBansh...1%208-05-07.JPG http://www.2sly4.us/rc/codys_stuff/MyBansh...2%208-05-07.JPG http://www.2sly4.us/rc/codys_stuff/MyBansh...3%208-05-07.JPG

amen to that Keith! I still need practice though. My drags were far from consistent.

Well, my shee has been missing on the top after i run it very hard for a while. I checked the plugs and it looked a tad bit lean. I thought my filters were too dirty so when i came home from riding yesterday, i use the recharger kit from k&N to clean them. They were filthy but that wasnt the problem. So today I bumped up the mains from 340 to 350 an hour or so ago. I went take a test ride. All is well. It pulled great on top even after multiple speed runs. I thought i finaly had it. Then i started to do some donuts, 2nd gear wheelie practice etc. Sort of things that are hard on the engine because the rpms are kinda high and the bike isnt moving fast(no much airflow). Well after a while, i went for some speed runs to cool her off and she started bogging real bad. I drive her under my carport and took the plugs out. They looked like this: http://www.2sly4.us/rc/codys_stuff/MyBansh...s1%208-5-07.JPG http://www.2sly4.us/rc/codys_stuff/MyBansh...s2%208-5-07.JPG With that said, i will discard those plugs. I will do a plug chop then post picture because i dont understand how to read plug chops. Seems to me the plugs like picture are fine. There's a nice cardboard color. I dont think the bike is overheating(i dont have a coolant tank, i disguarded it). There doesnt seem to be a leak. I didnt a compression test when i had the 320 mains in. Both were over 130psi(great!). At that time, it did this as well but quicker. I dont have any out of the ordinary mods. 350mains, 27.5 pilot, needle clip in the middle i think. There seems to be less low end than there was before but im not sure. I noticed this while trying to balance a wheelie out of the powerband(low low rpms). This could be due to a loosely fitted choke tube which i will secure, no biggie. But if that's not end, whatever it screwing up my top end power when it gets heated up could be causing that. I just dont get it, it pulls like HARD then after a while it will miss on the top end. And from all the reading i do, my problem area is a main jet sort of thing because it controls how much fuel it gets all around cept around idle i think. Any pointers fellas? :: BTW mods that effects the engine are the fallowing: ported job 20cc domes w/ noss head t5 pipes vf3 reeds +4 timing k&n pods w/ outer wear edit* i did not ride it after i changed the plugs like 30 min ago. for all i know it could be two partialy fouled pluggs which in tern would make me look like an idiot posting this long post.

the guy doing your port job etc will tell yo what kinda gas to run. I run reed spacers before it helps perforance with the port job i got according to the guy to did my portwork. He also answered ALL of my questions(thanx denny @ flotek). yfz450's are mosters out of the whole as are most 450's. You should be able to chase him own easy if you can drive well. Please dont do all of this just to be faster than the next guy. WHEN you lose a race(and you will sooner or later), you will feel like shit. I raced some 450's yesterday for the 1st time since my engine work. My driving was what decided the won, in which case, my missing shifts, shitty starts etc made for some bad races. Fun though. There's countless shee vs (insert bike here) threads. I dont wanna get into another one. You might wanna read up on shift kits etc to make ya bike shift easyer. The more hp a shee has, the harder it is to shift under a load. You'll see.

This is truely hard to look at. I think i will go look for a small fire extinguisher to keep with me while i ride from now on. Yikes.... I dont know how insurance works, im looking into getting coverage for my bikes as well. I'm thinking they look at blue book and cut a check or something.

I can not say if your clutch will hold up. If i had to guess, i would say you current set up will work great. I however put 3 HD springs in just to make sure it wouldnt slip and to be a little more durable. It only takes like 5 min once you have the clutch cover off. The pull of the lever doesnt really get much harder either. You could prob put all 6 HD springs in and it wont be that hard to pull. I like a very light clutch pull so i only did 3. I have no idea which kinda of clutch disc i have. Probably stock. Dont forget to buy the little nic-nac things like o-ring safe grease to get the NOSS head on and some engine ice. If you can swing the extra $50 or so, get a tors removal kit if you dont already have one. It makes things so much more cleaner looking and get's rid of the shitty tors. Of yeah, it might be a good idea to get some spray carb cleaner($3 a can here). when i was rejetting my bike, i used a lot of carb clearner. I made sure no dirt got in my nice engine. If you do the TORS removal, youll need some for sure i would say. Cuz you will have to tap some holes in one side of each carb. Once it's all done, make sure you put the choke tube back. I didnt and it took about 3 weeks for someone to mention that to me on here. :biggrin:

Sry if it's been covered but in reguards to your last post. You will need a flywheel puller to get to your stator. It's behind the flywheel. I used an impact wrench to brake the nut loose w/o using any means of a lockup. You will also need to take your clutch cover off and put a nickel b/w the two big gears to tighten that flywheel nut down according to spec if you dont have a lock up tool. I did that, no biggie. Some say use an impact wrench but you are going to change the tranny oil anyways. I didnt want to risk screwing up the threads. This might be a good time to put 3 HD clutch springs in. That is up to your builder, he will know best. As for gaskets, you will need a set for the juggs. Always replace any gasket you come across. I would recommend changing the clutch cover gasket as well. cheap insurance. You dont need to bring it to a dyno. The builder SHOULD give you a nice starting point and you can go from there. He prob will start you out a little rich for the mains. No harm done. Save that dyno $$ and pay off some of these mods. As for doing all of this in 2 weeks......it took me longer than that. It was my first time and i only worked on weekends and a few hours after work till the daylight ran out. You probably will come into some tough problems but remember, nothing you run into is impossible. Just be patient. If any of this was said, ah well. Good luck man. I went through this in June haha. edit* most of this is covered in the Clymer manual.

peter perhaps some lock-tite medium strength would stop those bolt from coming loose. Also very good info here. I'm thinking about a chassis skid plate for my shee.

That shee looks mighty tall to be racing mx. :ermm:

The builder will know which mods will make the port job shine. Listen to him. Port jobs are the way to go. Get your flywheel lightened while your at it as well. It's a night and day difference man, youll see. Change the top end too while you at it. Doesnt take long at all. As for the gas, the guy doing ya portjob will tell you. 21 is safe for pump gas. I ran 93 octane with 21cc domes and i still do with 20cc domes. Like i said, the guy will tell you what to run and why. He will answer all your questions for you. Atleast he SHOULD, that's what you are paying him for. Now start working out those muscle, the bike is gonna pull! :biggrin:

Just try to contact him and ask him why. There could be thousands of reason why it happened. The whole drive to his house and beat him up is getting old. Act like an adult.

O-ring safe grease is what i used. It keeps the orings in place while you flip the head and put it onto the studds. It was easyer for me to get someone to help me when it came down to putting it on the studds. Just keep checking as it goes down all the way to make sure all the orings stay in place. it's very simple. Although once you get at it, everything on a banshee is simple. Drain the coolant before you start too. You dont want any coolant getting in the bottom in! I did mine w/o instructions cuz my bike is 2nd hand but it was a breeze.

kltoz hit he nail on the head. Remove it. A couple companys make a kit to do it. It's very simple to do. The motion pro kit's instructions blow ass though but it works great. If it malfunctions it will prevent the bike from reving like it should.

The front sprocket is just a matter of bending the lock washer thing out and unscrewing the big nut. Then do the opposite to put it back on. I did it a few weeks ago cuz i went fromt a 14t to a 15t front.

I remember you showing them to me a couple weeks ago in the chatroom. What kind of engraving did he do? I kinda like how they are in the picture. Either way it doesnt have any company logos, that's a huge plus cuz i refuse to put companys logos on my bike.

damn that might actualy make me want get a new console. I think ill go for the ps3 of course. I hope it's more realistic than the first one. No gears to shift, the clutch wasnt too real, physics on a wheel and power werent good and no banshee all in all, very fun game.

No i actualy stopped short of completing the install. I was in fear that i didnt do it right and it would take longer to take it all down and correct.....luckly i asked first heh. Yeah i have two, a small and a larger one. Im going wide as possible in the rear cuz i have the yfz450 front end. thanx man!

4 for the narrowest (which is wider than stock)install the small spacer on the axil That's the things on the end that the wheel hubs go against right?

Damn did i get it backwards haha. So from inside going out, it's the spacer, clip then the big nut? thanx man. So i did the brake rotor side wrong too? from outside going in, it was the clip then the round thing with the reccessed part.

I'm installing my gforce axel after having for over a month. I lost the instructions but i wanna get this done before the weekend. I have the side with the brake rotor all done. I need to know how to do the other side. Is it the big nut, metal round thing then the clip or what? Also do i need to use a big wrench to put the nut tight or not? Once again, i need to know how to arrange the parts from the rear sprocket on out(to the left when in back of the bike looking at it). I think i explained well enough but if not, please let me know. thanx, cody edit* here are some pics. In the first, x marks the starting point and the arrow marks from there when to put on. I might have done it right but i want to make sure. Last thing i want is it to mess up spinning at a very high RPM. http://www.2sly4.us/rc/codys_stuff/MyBansh...07%20edited.jpg http://www.2sly4.us/rc/codys_stuff/MyBansh...3%207-18-07.JPG this picture is the otherside. It's all done. I think it's the right way. http://www.2sly4.us/rc/codys_stuff/MyBansh...2%207-18-07.JPG

Sometimes the slides get stuck on the idle screws. I had that problem. I backed the idle screws out just a hair and problem solved. I used about 2 cans of spray carb cleaner between tapping my holes for the idle screws, rejetting etc. My damn carb are freakin spotless lol. I didnt want any dirt or metal shavings going into my engine.

go to the automotive section in wally world. Ask a worker for some blinker fluid or something like that. What a journey!

race him, video it and post it. race him more than once too. The more footage the better.

I went through this about 2 months ago. I send my juggs of to get ported and my flywheel lightned. And this is what i did. port job to my spec and flywheel lightened per Flotek w/ return shipping $380 Sold my t6 pipes and got some used t5's($275) Wiseco top end(figured do it while i had it apart) $169 gasket kit for my juggs mmm $30? oring kit and acorn nut kit for my NOSS cooling head forgot how much main jets, pilot jets NOSS machine read spacers forgot the price bottle of engine ice $30 tourqe wrench $75 some new spark plugs, $3 a piece. I also did other mods to help bring out the power of the port job. Some of these things i already had and some werent needed. 2 k&n pods($40 a piece) adjustable timing plate forgot the price 20cc domes for my NOSS head. I had 21's but went with 20cc domes. Port job was done for 93 octane pump gas outwear or whatever it's called for my pod filters. case saver(cheap insurance) 15t front sprocket I also went and bought countless other things that my shee didnt need that arent listed. But most of the things i listed are to bring out the portjob and get the best out of it. I didnt expect to spend, replace or buy as much as i did but in the end, it was well worth it the first time i felt the powerband. I did all the wrenching and work myself minus the actualy port work and flywheel lightening. It took me a while to tear it down and to rebuild it but it was my first time doing almost everything. Now i could do it faster of course. It was a learning process and a fun one at that. Sometimes frustraiting though. I might get it done to my 250 in the near future, oh boy! Atleast it wont need all sorts of supporting mods, just a heavyer flywheel haha. hope this helps! :biggrin: