volcrano

guys quit being retarded!!!!this thread is from OCTOBER 2010!!!ITS MARCH 2011.he said he has an updated list,and if u look thru,the top end and timing plate was sold 5 months ago.read..

thinking of doing this.its always nice down there,providing its not summer and a dust bowl.my buddies have been talking about it but the one dude has a cabin there and is a member of the shortcreek sportsman club,so we can ride there without the ride date,but i like riding with a shit ton of people,so if were gonna make it down for the ride on the date ill let u know.theres 4 of us with shees.gotta represent the hq!!!!

look like dg's.not too sure about the made for upper rpm power on those.

just remember,advancing to +4 will increase bottom slightly but in return u WILL lose top end over-rev.so take that under consideration to your riding style, if u want to spend the money.personally,i would look up the thread and cut ur own stocker to advance timing and save some money.

u check the manual again to make sure everything is removed??no way the cases are welded together.u got a bolt in somewhere or something still attached.

sawzall my friend.cut between the swinger dustcap and ur frame,that way u dont cut ur swinger lol.do that on both sides,pull swinger out.beat the remaining pieces out,soak,whatever.it will be easier to get out the rest of bolt and sleeve with the swinger out,and ur for sure gonna buy a new bolt and sleeve anyway,cuz if its siezed in there that bad,its fucked anyway.or keep hammering,soaking,air chisel,but the sawzall makes short work of that task.good luck!!

pm sent

im sure all listed will do a great job.i would pick the one with the best prices to turnaround time.everybody is gonna say one is better than the other,but in my opinion,any perfectionist that can use the tools correctly and has the mathematics down to do porting will build u a great motor.

rb porting is in michigan.he did my porting and its a beast.super clean job,as good as anybody else in the profession.theres a good amount of guys on here that have his work.i believe 87sheerips has their port to on a stock stroke beating 4mil bikes.thats just from reading posts so dont quote me,but id send to him,i did.

dude,why are u being a dick to this dude.to get your post count up or something.WHO GIVES A FUCK?if someone buys it,thet are an idiot or really want it,thats for the potential buyer to decide.the fucking dude dont care about building a serval motor or whatever HE ALREADY DID THE SWAP.i dont know why ur busting his balls because its something you dont agree with.let it go for christ sake unless ur gonna buy the fucker.he doesnt care about your opinion as you probably dont care for this one,and i dont care for the reply in going to get.

ok,after more investigating,im more interested in the t5s.i was under the impression the 916s were a mid top pipe,but have learned they are more midrange and go flat up top,so sorry for the change on ya.id like to find a set of t5s.

the topic says it all.send me a message please.dmc 916 is what i would really like,but might consider t5,thanks guys.

if it falls through let me know,ill deal.

dude,seriously,he said MAKE OFFER.

x2,what an ass clown comment.seriously,what dickhead says shit like that,im sure its hard enough for dude to keep his head on straight and not be fucked up in the head from not having a father/asshole rapist so props on that.im sure your much better off little man.shovel driveways,time is coming soon to mow lawns,maybe be a runt for a landscaping company/mow service.i didnt get mine till 21,but my prob was credit cards,and still is lol.stay away from credit cards when you get to that age lol.ive seen alot of shees dirt cheap on craigslist.hell my 96 was 1300 bucks.anyway,keep ur eye on the prize,or see if people on cl will trade this for that and some cash or whatever.

hit it on the head,plus rumble on the ridge and hopedale in adena,ohio.wellsville is the place for watching drunk asses fuck their shit up.i love it.

interesting reply.do u want a 700 because your neighbor is talking shit and people say u wont win?if u have to get high in rpms for power u need a better set up or a compression test.my 4 mil will shit on a 700 and a 450 is pointless.my stock bore with fattys and vitos pistons pulled one by 2 bikes and i weighed 75 lbs. more than the guy on 450.im not talking smak about a 700,they do have monster torque,but u can build a motor to have great torque and will make ur sausage crawl into ur stomach when the powerband hits,if u can hang on.no 700 has given me that rush.get a loan for $1500 and build power my friend.x2 on the rebuild.hope u got deep pockets.what other bike can u get to where u can build whatever motor u want?thats y i love these.u can port,stroke,small bore,big bore,cubs,trex,serval,monoblock,skies the limit.but like said before,u gotta wanna wrench and build the happiness.to each his own.

lids are nice for riding in muddy/wet conditions.you shouldn't have to pull your airbox to see the carb slides,pulling your filter should be fine,thats all i do,you can see them.as he said,just make sure with the slightest touch of the throttle,you should see them both move at exactly the same time.the stock carbs also have little windows up in the carb body where the slide goes,you can check by adjusting them as stated,then open the throttle while looking at the windows.you'll see them turn black i think around 1/2 to 3/4.thats the little indents in the slides matching to the windows.they (carbs) should both turn black at the same time,hence showing you the slides are in the same spot on both carbs.the most accurate way to sync,is to get the vaccuum guage that fits on the back of carb body with airbox off that measures the vaccuum its pulling.you adjust both carbs to where they are pulling the same vaccuum as im sure you know from your 750 4 cyl.

x2.do a plug check!! that will tell you if you're too lean.or put your lid back on to richen it up instead of getting back in carbs.in summer my stocker has a lid with 10 drilled filters in it no snorkel and k&n filter,in winter i put on the solid lid with snorkel and pull foam filter over the k&n and richen pilot circuit.get to temp and check plugs.always works great and i dont even have to get in the carbs.obviously every bike,alt,temp is different but thats my little deal lol.

could have sucked dirt in and clogged pilot jet.clean carbs and re-synchronize.check to make sure plugs are not on the way out,check compression.reeds could be cracked if all the other options check out okay.hell,when u pull the carbs to clean them,might as well look at the reeds since ur 8 bolts away.

seems wierd,comp is good,have good spark and fuel.anything u did to it make it start this?did u work on something then this happened?just checking,it happens.try a lil ether in dry cyl with dry plugs.if that wont get a fire,ur comp guage is off,or ur spark isnt as good as u think.all u need to start a motor is good compression,spark and fuel,but the ether is stronger and can rule out off jetting and fouling.uve been thru the obvious,the black box of tors disconnected,if uve answered this sorry,i glanced thru ur descriptions.emergency brake plunger cut or still attatched?reeds cracked causing it to flood??check to see if ur crank has slipped,its a long shot but ive seen it.rotate to get piston on top dead center,check by pulling plug and stick a screwdriver in slot to make sure on top.check flywheel "tab"to see if its centered over pickup.then rotate to get the other cyl piston to tdc and make sure the pick up is lined with the other flywheel "tab".if the crank is out it will be a bitch and run like shit if at all.my buddy bought an ebay crank.never got it to run decent unless it was like 8 degrees advanced on a 404 la sleeve kit.checked the crank timing as i described and found the crank way out of time.granted he bought it like that,but they can slip.like i said,easy check,long shot.just throwing ideas.good luck man.

i can guarantee ur going to be a 27.5 pilot.put that in,the 30 is way too fat.i havent ran a set of pipes yet that worked well with a 25 pilot.the 27.5 is going to be perfect,with air screw adjustments of course.as for the 280 mains,thats only if u pull ur air box lid and run it open.running with the lid on as u are,the 250s are abbout right.i love my lid on my stocker,my bike runs great and the filter never gets clogged with shit like my stroker.if i didnt cut the mounts and feel like coon tuning shit,i would put it back on.then again,where i ride,the lid is necessary.

i would suggest taking it to a mechanic that wont tell you the piston not turning on is your problem.wtf?lmfao.as said before,needle and seat will make your shit backfire and "keep your piston off"lol.

20cc domes will definately wake it up.the more compression the more power.ur mods will work well with it.as for the avgas,not sure if thats needed,but could be depending on altitude,and compression psi.i believe upbove 150psi u need to run higher octane,so check ur compression after the install.also,unless u want to rebuild it soon,dont run 50:1,i dont care what the bottle says.32:1.

possible cracked reed on left side.are u on the gas wot mostly?a cracked reed will still let the bike run normal at wot,but under that it will want to load and die on u.also,check compression on the cyls.make sure the same jets are in both carbs,maybe u thought u had the right one in and put a different one in?stock carbs,make sure the little brass washer is under the main jet.