Screaming Yellow Zonker

WOW that sucks... have you checked the crank and rod bearings to see if they binding??? I was running 380-400 jets in my stroker with no porting. I would rather run rich and ride home than run lean and burn a piston or crank.

I would start off by pulling off the stator cover and put a socket on the flywheel bolt and rotate the engine forward and backward with the spark plugs removed. *side note** check the spark plugs for any type of metal shavings or gray matter on the plugs* this might help narrow down the area of the noise...

I'm interested but would like to see pics first..

I got a pair of used mikuni 33mm carbs and I just cant seem to get them right. I started off with 270 jets and it wouldnt go anywhere. so I put in 350 and it was still lean so I started lifting the needle it got better but was still lean. So I got the bug to put 400 main jets in. put the needle back to the middle but didnt go for a test spin (getting too late) I have the stock needle and stock pilot. I think the pilot is a 25. If anyone can help I would be so thankful. mods in sig.

Do not run the Dex-Cool... That stuff is garbage. Run something good like engine ice or straight distilled water and water wetter. Or if you want to go expensive get some Evans coolant. But first fix that air leak!!!

If take a green scrub pad with mineral spirits it will clean it right up.

What I did was thread the lower 4 bolts in a few threads and tapped them with a dead blow hammer.. Don't beat on it. just tap.

Shift forks and shift drums.. when the pads wear off the forks you try harder to get it into gear. than you notch out the drum.. Good luck.

that is what happens with wear. after a few years of running the chain will stretch out and the sprockets will "hook"... Get ahold of Jeff at F.A.S.T. and he can set you up with some new drive parts... F.A.S.T.

you could have an output shaft seal leaking or a neutral switch cover leaking... Unless you have a crack in the case that is the only thing over there... Also if your vent is plugged than it will cause positive pressure in the trans case which will cause you to blow your seals...

with the larger gasket you have a better chance of etching the head and cylinder surface. For the cost of a head gasket it isnt worth the risk of a fresh topend...

my local got me for $7

I would not skimp on seals. X2 for Jeff @ F.A.S.T.

I would start off with unplugging all connectors and dry them out. I would also spray some wd40 in the connectors. Than I would a spark test..

to lower the front just get some honda 300ex front shocks. that will bring it down. You can also get different spring rates with the 300's

hope this will help you out this is actually 2 1/4 inch this one it to the pointer on the clutch arm

There is no way to mount a 10 inch tire on an 11 inch rim... You would never get the bead to seat even if you got the tire on the rim... But you have a 10 inch rim. you cant measure the outter part of the rim that is the bead...

careful with the Bosch plugs. They tend to have a higher resistance so the coil has to work harder to do the same amount of work. They have also been known to take out coils. I wouldn't run a Bosch if you paid me... Just my .02 cents...

that's some good thinking there. :thumbsup: I painted the frame and engine. Might be time for a ground strap...

there are 2 per cage... One top one bottom.

I haven't ran any in 6 years and have had no problems. I was running Boysen now I have carbon flex reeds.

I get zapped through my clutch lever... It is starting to suck. I am about to stick a ground wire to my butt so I don't get zapped anymore.

Nice bike. Now you just need some ridding buddys. Ask around here. I'm sure someone will ride with you.

I have a few friends that run the pro design cool head and they love it. I almost got one but I got a good deal on the Trinity one.

If you look at your old basket the fingers will probably have grooves in them where the clutch discs were rubbing. The Billet baskets are alot harder and won't do that.