Screaming Yellow Zonker

Please take the caps lock off.. this is a no shouting area... on the top of your case there is an arrow right by the clutch arm. on the clutch arm there is a point. when the clutch lever is pulled in the two should line up. If they don't and you can not adjust the perch to do so you have to pull the clutch cover and adjust the clutch at the basket.

I do believe this topic has been brought up about a dozen or more times. Basically every noob has asked this. But I run 32:1 Klotz Super Techniplate. Only thing I will ever run.

How is the run time with the "alky" compared to gas? Right now on gas I can get around 40 miles to a tank. would that change to about 20 if I switched. (of course I would probably change top ends while I was at it).

sometimes they fill with dirt and gunk. You might have to screw and tap it out at the same time.

a new basket will run from 100 bucks on up. While you are in there I would recommend a pancake bearing. Saves you from a headache down the road. Not that hard to do by yourself. it should take an hour or so.

Most of the time if it is burning coolant there will be some white smoke from the pipes. It is possible for coolant to go into the cylinder and not be in the crankcase. One thing to look for is that the tops of the pistons will be almost steamed cleaned. (from what I have noticed)

Ok... Where is the oil coming from? is it coming out of the vent tube, a gasket or off the truck??? How is the bike sitting when it is in tow? Just some small questions that might help. The light sounds like a wiring problem. I would check and make sure you ground is good.

What I kind of gathered from the "in your back pocket" was your personal choice of builders. The ones you recommend over others. I guess some could take it the wrong way where it was just meant as a figure of speech. Not to mean harm in any way. If I would have known about these two heads before I made my bad decision I would have ended up with something better than the trinity. Don't get me wrong it is a nice head. But I think I could get more power elsewhere.

this is the clutch basket. You can file down the basket a little to keep it from holding the clutches.

have you checked your fuel flow out of the tank? on the other side of your shut off valve there are two filters. they might need to be cleaned. And X2 on checking float level.

simple question first. is it firing on both cylinders?

pop your plugs out and see what they look like. that would be the best way to know the fuel condition. also pull the choke one notch while riding and see if it reacts better.

I'm with meat... it does look like it broke. (after taking another look). It is right where the port is. did you happen to find any little pieces? Maybe inside the exhaust or below the piston?

looks like a little problem there... did you have an air leak?

do you know what detonation is??? preignition is detonation... or spark knock... same with diesieling when trying to turn off an engine... Back on topic.... good luck with the repairs. check your jetting and also check for air leaks. is your timing adjustable? if so what is it at?

Damn that is messed up. Did you damage the crank or bearings? I've been think about a 4mm sb twister for my bike but I dont want that to happen... Are you going for the billet case or another stock case??

Yup that is detonation. Causes: lean condition, too much timing, to low of octane fuel and or excessive engine heat (beyond normal). did someone forget to rejet for the 4mm?

I would get a tors removal kit and remove the parking break/clutch rev limiter. will just cause problems down the road for you.

coolant only circulates through the cylinders and the head. You could have any type of problem. it could be a gasket or a cracked head or cracked cylinder. I would start off by removing the head and cylinders and checking the gaskets, cylinders and head. Coolant does not appear for no reason. You have a definite problem. *edit* you could also have bad o rings in your head...

I was sucking the stock carbs dry with my 4mm setup. IMO stock carbs are for stock bikes. A 4mm is nice but a 4mm with a good set of carbs and a good port job is the way to go.

I would probably check the stator side of the bike. sounds like you could have broken your flywheel... Just a thought.

http://www.atvpowerplus.com/site/1586500/page/746481/site http://www.procycledepot.com/WSM_BIG_BORE_PISTONS_FOR_YAMAHA_BANSHEE-8-10400-91487.html http://bansheestuff.com/yamaha-banshee-top-end-rebulid-kit-wsm-platinum-series.html just a few I found

ok first question... what are your reasons for trying to port your cylinders?? Next in your sig it says -2 degrees timing... why not run advanced timing where it gives you power? If you are looking for more power advance your timing to 4* advanced and save your money for a cool head...

That 33 seems like it is going to be too small. I am running a 38 on a trinity 2-1 setup. A friend is running a pair of 35pwk's on a stock ported engine. IMO I would go at least 35mm PWK. you don't want to starve your engine.

I have been running wiseco in my bike for 6 years and will only use wiseco pistons.