Screaming Yellow Zonker

it sounds like your carb is gummed up. pull your jets out ( main and pilot ) and clean them well. make sure you can see through them. this should get you started.

carb adjustments (stolen from someone else on the board) first...with the idle screws completely removed, remove the airbox (makes it easier to see and work on). Make sure with the idles screws removed both carb slides fully bottom out and seat with no throttle. Then...slowly move the throttle and make sure they move up at the SAME TIME. You use the adjusters on TOP of the carb caps for the syncing of them. Next, place each idle screw in. When it touches the slide, stop. Back it out, turn it in, etc. Once it is JUST at the point of touching, turn that screw in 2.0 full turns, and lock it down. Do the same on both. Check the sync on both of them again.... Put it back together.... Warm it up...and set your air mixture screw next. Start with the air screw out .5 turns from the lightly seated position. Keep turning it out until you get your highest idle, only go .5 turns at a time. After you turn the air screw out, WAIT 20 seconds for the adjustment to take place. When you get your highest idle, then...adjust it up or down with the idle screws....

is your plug fouled out? if its not wet than you have a fuel issue. I am a S E Michigan resident (northern Oakland county) if you need help,

all the engines I have honed from Big blocks to small blocks and single cylinder engines all I have ever used was transmission fluid and mineral spirits. That is what my teacher in high school told me to use and I have had nothing but good luck with that mixture. Make sure you wash out the cylinder out with dish soap and water.

I have had a similar problem but with no pop sound. The bike ran for about 30-45 seconds then just quit. I replaced plugs, had the coil checked. replaced the stator and flywheel just to find out that I blew the CDI box.

You can start off by removing all the TORS off your bike. A timing plate is a good way to start or you could just get a degree key to start off. More compression is going to give you quicker revs. Pipes and a jet kit will help you out all around. You can go deeper like a good port job or a stroker but you probably want small mods right now.

IMO you need to remove all the TORS so you wont have that problem again.

it sounds like you need to step up your pilot jets a few sizes. With more displacement you need more fuel but with your stock settings that won't happen. And at idle your main jets don't do too much.

I have been running B8ES ever since I have owned my bike. I have had problems with then but it was from other things than running. T.O.R.S. helped kill a set of plugs for me and when I burnt out my ignition I killed another set. But I do normally change my plugs twice a year just for peace of mind.

have you checked all the wires for bad spots and burns? I would also check your switches making there is no short in those. What I have done before to check for power out of the stator is take a 17mm head bolt and insert it into a deep well socket where the threaded portion go through the square hole and chuck it into a 1/2 in drill and spin the engine over with no spark plugs. then take your volt meter or test light and check it out. (this is where 2 people might be necessary) you also might want to drip a little oil in the cylinders to prevent a cold sieze. if you have plenty of power than it might be CDI failure :sad: ... Good luck.

The first thing that I would do is remove that TORS unit and get an Idle kit. I would also throw in a new set of plugs. this might help. Did your dad have to add fuel? Possibly no oil in fuel for the hard kick. Just ideas. Good luck with the fix.

i had a similar prob with my bike. I started it up and not even 20 seconds of running it just died. I replaced the stator and that didnt fix it. I replaced the coil and that didnt fix it either. The last thing to replace was the CDI and as soon as I pluged that in it took 2 kicks and it started right up. Sorry man it sounds like your CDI went out on you. I am running a GYTR which I have been told that they dont make them any more. Good luck with your prob.

go to where your cdi box plugs into the harness and cut the green wire with a yellow tracer. that is an over ride for the tors. that is about all my knowlege on tors since I dont have them. God luck.

Damn that sucks!!! Atleast you are still here to ride again and thats all that matters.

That is the only oil I have ever used since I got my bike. I rebuilt the topend 4 years ago and my bike still runs strong. I run my bike fat at 32:1 just to keep heat down and it is cheaper to replace plugs than pistons.

it is not going to be electrical if you can swap wires and still have the same problems. You seem to have a fuel problem. I would pull all the jets out of the carbs and clean them with a pipe cleaner or small diameter wire. I had the same prob and it worked.

it sounds like you aren't getting enough power while kicking. the stator sounds like its getting weak and when you pull start it your spinning the crank faster and making more current. I would check the volage output of your stator. Good luck.

it sounds like your pilot jet has a restriction. You should have atleast a 27.5 or a 30 with your application. Or to get by for now take your pilot jets out and take a small piece of wire and run it through a few times. I had that problem and I just swaped out pilots. Good luck....

When I get a chance I will install the new plugs, ride it like no other and then check the plugs. I had the 340 in there but I had to move the needle to keep from lean burning. I did pick up a set of 350 so if it is too rich I will just swap then out. Thanks again..... now time to Party

Thanks for the help. I installed some 370 main jets and a new set of 30 pilot jets (I had 30's in there already) I started it up and set the idle and that thing has never ran that good. Now I am itching to ride and see how much different it is. Thanks again.

nope not using the caps for idle adjustments. I do have the adjusters on the side of the carbs. I just picked up some pilots and mains from vito's earlier today. So I'll give them a try tomorrow. and I never intended to use the needles for an idle adjustment. I was just trying to get more fuel for my lean condition. Thanks for help. I hope the different jets will help me.

wouldn't that make it leaner at idle???

OK today I decided to tinker with my bike... I installed a new set of reeds checked the seals I advanced the timing another 1 1/2 degrees tore down the carbs and cleaned it all I lfted the needle another notch Now the bike runs great but still seems like it is not getting enough fuel at low RPM's I belive I have 330 jets in the carbs. How do I get fuel back down low???

I jetted it and installed a new set of needles. After I did that it ran great and would idle for an hour if I let it. Now it will idle for 10 seconds before it wants to stall. I am planning on replacing the float needle and seat because I am having a bowl over flow problem.

1996 with 1999 electronics GYTR Ignition box 200w stator w/adj timing plate and flywheel .020 engine Toomey T5 pipes and silencers Reed spacers TORS removed Open dual element air filters Barnett complete clutch not sure on jet sizes