Washburn

This is the first thing I ever tryed selling on Ebay. Like stated I listed a pair of handlebars and a grabbar on Ebay and I cant find them with the search? Ebay sent me an email with the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=260082033123 and thats the only way I can find it? Did this ever happen to you guys? Do you know what I did wrong? I know the pics are crap but I just put these up as a test for future refrence. Here is the other link http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29296-2357-0...0471&lk=URL Tell me if any of you can find this stuff by doing a search. Thank you. Neil

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72473

Im not 100% on that one. I was told it was an 89 when I bought it then I seen a 89 and it looked diffrent. I never knew how to tell. its 86-89 I know its not a 90s model. Suzuki 35710-62 TOKAIDENSO JAPAN is what it says on the back of the light. If you can tell by that let me know.

I cant guarentee it, but It worked last time I checked witch was a few years back. Has the conecting wires, a screw on one side is out. Not sure if it fits the Banshee. Whoever wants it paypal me like 9 dollars for shipping costs and its yours. If you live close its yours free along with a few other LT250R Misc Parts. Full Plastics in bad shape(Big Cracks both front and rear), Dented A Arms and loose tie rods, Airbox, some hardware ect. Im giving it away because I wont sell anything that I know is in bad condition. I am going to be taking the rest of the bike apart in a few weeks and I will be parting out the motor after I take it apart and see if the bottom end is still good. The Hubs and Axle are good. Swingarm is good. Ill see what else. PM Me

Anything you can you can think of there is insurance for. Each lease is diffrent too. There is no cut and dry lease. Each bank does it diffrently each dealers do it diffrently. For instance My father leased a car on a 4 year lease and he had the option to buy after the lease was up. He looked at the blue book and made them an offer they made a counter offer that was good for a used car but Instead of 4 payments new it was 8 after the lease. My dads boss leased a car and dident have the option to buy. They did find the law uncostitutional that if your leased car were to get stolen and totaled that you have to pay what the total of the car new would be worth vs what the insurance company gives you. All the questions you have are good questions and this is a good thread so if I were you I would make a list based on this thread and go over every aspect of it with the dealer and the bank your leasing from. I but used cars get a friend of the family to give them a full inspection and tune up and keep them. I will continue to do so untill I decide find a good lease so I will own a used car and Lease new cars every 2-4 years untill I retire then I will probably opt to buy.

Scotts is definatly the best but its like 300 dollars more. Im definatly geeting one. Instead of buying a Denton Im saving up for a few months and am getting the Scotts. Unless you NEED one rite away and Denton is all you can afford wait, save, and get the Scotts. Like Blue Duece always says the Denton and Pep style ones are nothing more than the piston that closes your screen door. With a Scotts you can let go of the handle bars for 8-10 seconds doing 80mph on dirt and still have your bike go straight. Ive heard this from a few other people as well. GNCC and MX Racers. It adjusts on the fly. 3 adjustments there. Top of the line and money well spent for sure. I cant wait to get my A-Arms and suspention put on then I am getting the Scoots steering stabilizer. Here is why in detail... http://www.scottsperformance.com/scotts.php

I ride woods trails some technical some wide open, strip mines, Rough rocky rutted terrain with long Hillshoots and some Harescrambles and other various races around here this spring/summer time. Alot of place dont charge you shipping if you spend over a couple hundred dollars. I can get you a nice deal on the A-Arms I just got for about what you are spending on the Eyeballs that includes shipping. Just shoot me a PM if you want details. Ill give you the number for Buchanan Racing. Thats the place I get all of my stuff from and Im building the website that should be up in a few weeks.

Yeah, just return it for your full purchase price. Worst thing that can happen is they charge you with a 15 dollar restocking fee and I doubt that with heads. Besides you get a 10% discount on the Noss Head for being a member here :biggrin:

Definatly a great pipe. When I get my 4mil stroker motor that is the pipes I am going to use. I will be switching from T6s to PT Mids. I would switch rite now but I dont have the money and noone wants to trade. Good thing abouth the PT Mids are they wont slow you down in the trails with overrev. The only time I really hit 4th and 5th hard is in the open stuff. 5- 6th is straight aways only. They pull as hard as the next pipe they just have more low end, killer mid, and good top pull and you can get on them really quick. The Toomey Pipes are great but they overev to much and dont hit as hard as the PT Mids for the riding/racing I do.

Plus the Noss head is chambered a little diffrent for an overall better cooling effect. They look alot better too Espically the Anodized ones. I have a simple instructions writeup on how to install a Noss Head if you decide to go with one. Just PM me for them.

What kind of riding do you do? Then we can help determine the best pipe for you. There are alot of pipes you overlooked espically if your ride in the woods/MX or Drag.

The problems you already mentioned could defiatly be it. Make sure to turn your idle screws out 1/14 and turn out in quarter turn incriments from there. Your reeds could be stuck open. The same exact thing happened to mine last week and I cleaned the carbs and bumped the main up 2 sizes to compensate for the cold weather and that did the trick. 1.Mess with your idle screws 2.Check for air leaks. Start it up and spray carb cleaner around where air could leak. I dont recomend doing this if its already reving. 3.Take your carbs off clean them Jets real good with carb cleaner make sure the slides and bowls are on the rite carbs 4.Take your reeds out (its only 8 allen head bolts) to check out if they are in working order Rejet if nessacary

OHHHHHHHH SNAP! Happy birthday my man. May you have many cold beers and many hot chicks. ALL AT ONCE!!!!!!

Yes, there are a few people on here that already have it. Im getting it next month. As far as Dune riding the more travle the better from whatt Ive heard. Im sure that would be a super nice dune setup.

Yeah that sounds really cool. Its a shame it just takes a few people to screw things up. Even if the riders that go there all the time kick them out they will go at night and tear shit up build fires, same senario. Sometimes you can scare them off for good though. Yes always pick up your and other peoples trash . Alot of Landowners enjoy or dont care that there are people riding on their proerty just as long as nobodys bothering anything and noones making a mess. I am a landowner and I know may others who feel the same way. Keeps the trails nice, people are enjoying something that should be enjoyed. Just keep it semi low key and get the assholes OUT as soon as you see them.

Badass, needs better suspention all my wheels came off. 100 points for backflips though.

heh, yeah its cool to find spots like that. Its when they get to overpopulated and people start complaining that the owners start worrying about shit and close the places down. Arm pump can kill you espicaly on a track and if your not used to it. It gets better with handling components and mucho practice. Its fun jumping over obsticals that were in your way the previous weekend :thumbsup:

Are you standing up alot in the higher gears? Who did your port work how much did you have taken out? If you can get away with a stock length or even -1 -2 swingarm for woods riding do it. I never really liked the longer swingers in the woods. Roll design is the shit if you can afford it. I thought about Roll Design but I have a limited budget plus there are alot of products out there that can compare to RD hardware. Its all about personal prefrence.

Na man, I went with the standerd +2+1 setup. LT for my style I found out was not the best idea its not needed. Dual rate Elite series is the best way for me. If you can spend 670 you have many options. You might not get the lines and clamps with the package but you have your choice of A-Arms. Just something to think about.

Hell yeah, that will riiiiip through the trails. First thing I would do is get fronts to match the rear tires. It will handle/grip alot better. If you do run trails. Dont cut them front fenders man. Youll have mud and grit flinging in your face at 35mph :biggrin:

Someone came in the shop with this exact question the other day. I remember hearing 590ml when draining and 650-675 at disasembly. Also when you drain the fluid after its gone kick the bike over with the killswitch engaged and more will come squirting out. You really dont have to but thats how its done. They talked about it in more detail but I was looking at a camelback and snipping off new blue tubes for my carb overflows. Im also switching from Yamalube 4 to this stuff http://www.ktm-parts.com/Merchant2/merchan...t_Code=36030002 Its great oil and I double checked and no it wont soak into your clutch fibers.

40 Bucks a month so that probably means you have to pay hundreds to get to the real good stuff. Everyone knows shes a pig why not make money off of it. Shes smart. Ill just wait till it surfaces on a file sharing program or a free website.

Good idea Rustbag. Make it so everyones off of work like 7pm-12am or something. Ill probably be on anyway.

:yelrotflmao:

More pics here http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l137/Washburn_03/. I think you can mount them up to the Banshee Im not 100%. Make an offer.